View Full Version : Hunting Set-Up
September 2nd, 2002, 08:37 AM
It's time to gt set up for hunting and I have a problem. I'm shooting around 275fps at 70#'s and can't get consistent groups with 100 or 125 grain Thunderheads. What do I do? Turn down speed to 250fps, which 'm told is optimal for fixed blade heads, and and try to group then or switch to mechanicals? Which are the best mechanicals? Will they kill a hog? An elk?
September 2nd, 2002, 09:17 AM
I've used thunderhead for years with 5'' vanes. I went to mechanical last year they are steal head very good. killed three hogs this year.with 4'' vanes.
September 2nd, 2002, 02:17 PM
you shouldn't really have to lower your draw weight. have you aligned your blades to your fletching. also depending on your cutting surface the lower the cutting like 1 inch cutting diameter is easier to tune than one over 1 inch. i have gone to rocket steelheads in the grain size and i shoot 270 to 275 fps and they fly just like my fieldpoints. you can make it work you might have to do some adjusting with sights or even the rest to make the broadheads work for you.good luck on setting your broadheads up
September 2nd, 2002, 07:21 PM
I get excellent flight with the 100 grain 3-blade Thunderheads, and the PSE Carbon Force Dominator 200 shafts, and 3 4" Duravanes. They hit the same place my field points hit@ 263fps. Hope this helps. Be safe.
September 3rd, 2002, 10:35 AM
try some muzzys any of them fly great
September 3rd, 2002, 01:39 PM
Thunderheads are not easy to tune. I would stay with fixed blade and try Muzzys or Wasp threeblades. I shoot wasp sst 75 grn. and have for years in tournaments and hunting. They work excellant for me.
September 3rd, 2002, 03:10 PM
If you want a great mechanical head that is tough as nails & shoots like a field point look at the golden key demons. man they are a nice mechanical broadhead. Since they do not have a huge cutting diameter they will be ok for big game & hogs!
September 4th, 2002, 09:54 AM
Assuming you have sufficent arrow spine, Speed is not the problem. It reveals the problem.
But back to basics, underspined arrows with broadheads will never group really well. For myself, I've learned I need to use stiff arrows. It is well worth the speed loss to get good arrow flight by backing off a few pounds of draw weight.
September 4th, 2002, 04:53 PM
The arrows are Gold Tip 7595 XT's. If anything, they may be a bit on the heavy side according to their charts at 29"s in length. Are Gold Tips known to be under-spined?
September 4th, 2002, 08:31 PM
you are over spined and that could also hender your efforts to tune your broadheads as well as underspined arrows. try the 5575 xt or gt's and see if that doesn't help. also if you line your broadheads with your fletching that should also help and are you using at least 4inch fletching. for mechanical you can get away with 3 inch but i have found that with a 3 blade bh you need at least a 4 inch. good luck
September 4th, 2002, 09:51 PM
You have already got your answer. All you have to do is figure which one will fix your problem. You received a lot of good information. I had the same problem over the years. Each time it was something different. As D.B. stated thunderheads are hard to tune if everything is working right. D. S. probably is close to the solution. I don't know what shaft you are shooting, you might want to stiffen up a little. I was shooting a 2213 when I had the problem. Changed to a 2413 and corrected the problem. Another thing to consider is the bow tuned correctly. If that broadhead is coming off crooked and the fletching has to correct the arrow your group is not going to be very tight. This problem is amplified when you go from a field point to a fixed broadhead. First make sure that the bow is tuned. Then try a little stiffer shaft. If not of the above work sell the thunderheads and buy some mechanical broadheads.
My 2 cents worth
September 4th, 2002, 10:24 PM
Little Bubba is right 2413 is probably the perfect arrow for poundages between 60-70lbs. I to used to shoot 2213 for 3d and hunting and switched to 2413 and the extra stiffness is what I needed. I shoot 55/75 goldtipsxt now for hunting.
September 4th, 2002, 10:34 PM
I appreciate all the advice. The last time I was at my local pro shop, I was told the Gold Tip 5575 arrows I was shooting were under-spined, thus the reason I purchased the 7595's from another dealer since this place doesn't sell Gold Tip. I've since come to believe that the only equip and accessories worth using are those sold by this particular pro shop; according to the owner anyhow. I'm tired of the attitude and am looking for a new place. I have tried shooting both 85 and 100 grain Muzzy's with similar results; poor. I have managed to get my groups with the 100 T-heads to about 5 inches at 30 yards. I'm using a Tiger Tuff rest that seems to be contacting the the fletching at times, but according to the pro shop, this can't be the problem since he sold it to me;(tongue in cheek). I like the idea behind the drop aways, especially the Quick Tune 2000 but wonder if it will not complicate things and become just one more thing that can go wrong. Maybe I should just give up the bow and take up needle point! LOL
September 8th, 2002, 12:38 AM
billkay, if you're having fletch contact, I'd correct that first. Either the rest needs adjusting or nock point may be low. Getting the bow properly tuned, to your arrow /broadhead combo, should get your groups acceptable. Make sure the broadheads are true to the shaft, no wobble. Check FOC. You should be 10-15%. Helical vanes are also better at stabilizing broadheads. Fixed blade heads can be made to fly as well as mechs. You just have to work at it. My Muzzy 3 or 4 blade 100s hit right with my Snypers. The NAP drop away rests work great. I have the 4000s on my bows, and love them. But they aren't a cure all. You still need to tinker to get them right, but they helped my groups tighten up.