Ways to tie a Trophy Taker fall away or any fall away [Archive] - ArcheryTalk Forum: Archery Target, Bowhunting, Classifieds, Chat

View Full Version : Ways to tie a Trophy Taker fall away or any fall away

Daniel Boone
March 1st, 2005, 08:52 PM
Heres how Dean Pridgen ties his fall away.

Places a brass nock above and below. I think tied nock will do the same.

This method allows the tie to swivel and turn straight evertime. Just use a simple d-loop tie.

March 1st, 2005, 08:55 PM
What is the reason for having the knock below the knot? It seems to me it wont move in that direction.

March 1st, 2005, 09:00 PM
I do similar - I lay down about 3/4" of serving on the high side as a stop for a D-loop style knot. I am not doing anything below though.

March 1st, 2005, 09:06 PM
good way of doing it........... but isnt it true that everything on the string slows it down,?

Daniel Boone
March 1st, 2005, 09:09 PM
Dean is a legend in archery and knows more than most. Heres how I silence mine for hunting also. Just some ideas to think about.

March 1st, 2005, 09:09 PM
i also tie same knot.. but split the string in two, feed threw then tie around both sets of strands and serve 3/4 above it only... :) :cool:

Daniel Boone
March 1st, 2005, 09:12 PM
Is I saw a guy cut his string attach to his TT at indoor sectionals. I just feel tie to the string with d-loop tie is better and safer method.

I use string nocks and not the brass nocks.

March 1st, 2005, 09:13 PM
tr instructions

Daniel Boone
March 1st, 2005, 09:17 PM
I just feel your asking for trouble. I have always done it this way but after seeing it can cut the string attached to the fall away rest. It just isnt worth the gamble.

But that why we have the tuning section to discuss and learn from everyone

March 1st, 2005, 09:33 PM
I have an 05 protec. How do you set up the arrow holder? The shelf isn't flat.

short arrow
March 1st, 2005, 09:39 PM
shouldn't put the rope through the power cable because if you have to turn the cable to get your cam back into rotation you'll have to re-tie. by using a loop knot you can swivel the rope around . also by using a peep knot above and below the loop knot you can direct the rope off to one side or the other so everything stays consistant.without a peep knot on the bottom the loop knot can slide down[usualy with help] holding the arrow up longer than it should creating inconsistancy.

March 1st, 2005, 09:42 PM
I tie most of mine the way jimfc3 shows. But if your changing strings and cables over to Winners Choice the X-Coat prohibits that method. So I started attaching the way DB shows except I tie on the nocks instead of using brass.

Friar Tuck
March 1st, 2005, 09:56 PM
The brass nocks are no good for shoot through systems as they contact the cables and destroy the string unless you tie off way down the cable. I just tied it to the cable using the normal serving method and used serving material for the rope. Thin, Strong and using a little wax once served holds in place.

I placed a spring between the launcher and the rope which seems to work well as opposed to a rubber connection which snapped on my 5th arrow.

March 1st, 2005, 10:01 PM
Here is how I do mine .I serve about 1/2 inch above and below it at the point where the cord passes through the cable I wrap the serving over the cord in an X type crossing before doing the lower serving .

March 1st, 2005, 11:21 PM
I just serve about 2" of the buss cable with center serving material... then use the same knot i use to tie loops on then tie a 8 knot serving above to keep the knot from slipping...

Overkill... maybe but no cut cables and I can move it easily... :D

March 1st, 2005, 11:39 PM
I serve basically an oversize peep knot (one that you can move if you should adjust your draw or rest height) above and below the string. The string is tied on like a loop knot so that the string rests to the side (right side for a right handed shooter) to keep the string away from the fletching upon release. Once that is achieved, take your trusty nok pliers and slide up the the bottom knot and pinch the string between the two! works awesome!

Whack Master
March 2nd, 2005, 12:03 AM
I have had several of these installed as I have been shooting them since they come out and the best way I have seen is to split the string then run the cord thru and then serve about a half inch above and below and then mushroom the end of the cord so it can't pull back through. I would show you a pic but I just took it off my bow then on the rest I mushroom the end and put a nock on each side of the arrow holder that way the cord can't come forward at the shot and make contact with the arrow the end of the cord mushrooms very well when heated with a lighter then pushed into a flat object I had my doudts when I first seen this but after cutting that mushroomed end off tonight I have very good faithin it :)

March 2nd, 2005, 02:30 AM
I do it like Javi, except I never thought to serve the cable. Might start though... :cool:

March 2nd, 2005, 05:52 AM
Here's my NAP 4000 set up:

March 2nd, 2005, 07:34 AM
Does attaching the cable form the rest affect the speed of the bow?

March 2nd, 2005, 08:09 AM
Is I saw a guy cut his string attach to his TT at indoor sectionals. I just feel tie to the string with d-loop tie is better and safer method.

I use string nocks and not the brass nocks.

Dan, what happened? I am not clear on that. I also run my rest string thru my cable as well.

Javi, do you have a close up of your connection I could see?

March 2nd, 2005, 09:10 AM
I think I understand what he's saying, about cutting the buss cable. But I'm always checking my set up, arrows, etc.. when shooting. Remember this is a deadly weapon, and if not properly taken care of can cause injury to yourself or someone around you. I might try attaching to the buss cable using the d- loop type of knott??????. It would make it easier when timing you rest, not having to cut and burn till you get the right length.

March 2nd, 2005, 09:29 AM
I have my string through my cable as well on my DZ. But I have it just through it and not tied. It doesn't slip at all because of cable tension. I get great clearance...at least , so I think!

DB, was the string cut from pressure of the cable on the string? Holy beans!
I'm only drawing 62lbs....I wonder how much more pressure per sq/in there is on a cable at lets say 60 v 70lb of draw?
I surely don't shoot anywhere close to that of you (number of shots)or probably even the guy that you know, that it happened to. Was maintenance overlooked on the rest string? The knot system wouldn't require any maintenance. I understand that.

Short Arrow, I never thought about the reason to tie it on regarding cable and timing issues. Thanks

Whack Master
March 2nd, 2005, 09:53 AM
To get the timing right you can put a nock on the rest loosley and move that till you get it timed right then clich it and burn the end :)

March 2nd, 2005, 09:57 AM
To get the timing right you can put a nock on the rest loosley and move that till you get it timed right then clich it and burn the end


March 2nd, 2005, 10:20 AM
I do mine according to the Trophy Taker instructions. I serve down about 1" and attach the draw chord under the serving through the down buss cable and mushroom the end. Never had any problems with slipping or coming loose. I like the idea of tying a d-loop though right under the serving. May try that on my next set-up.

Full Draw Outdoors
Richwood/CSS ND Rep.

March 2nd, 2005, 10:41 AM
I tie a D loop knot on the cable w/ a 10 knot nocking point above it.

Benefits I've fount..

knot can rotate around cable if cable twists.. or is twisted to adjust timing/draw length ect...

serving nock can easily be slid up and down cable to set rest timing.. and is easily adjusted later on if you find you need to make a slight adjustment.

Won't cut your other cable when the metal nocking point comes in contact w/ it..

March 2nd, 2005, 11:01 AM
O.K. I was incorrect, it's the string running from the rest to the buss cable being cut. I've found some really heavy duty cord from cir-cut, it's really heavy, and is alot heavier than Brownell stuff. The only place I've seen it is at this guy on e-bay. I'm sure someone else might have it, but for the price fer foot, cann't go wrong.

March 2nd, 2005, 03:59 PM
I use Javi's method works real well

Silver Dingo
March 3rd, 2005, 08:37 PM
Specialty archery products are now making a small alloy 2 piece ball designed specifically for this task. Jusrtclamp it to the string and the cable and tighten the screw. works a treat.

Jorge Oliveira
March 3rd, 2005, 09:29 PM
Does attaching the cable form the rest affect the speed of the bow?

Very little.

March 3rd, 2005, 09:37 PM
I am using the same method as Javi right now, but I am going to try the new gizmo from Specialty as soon as they get in, just to see if I can tell a difference.

Dave Nowlin
March 4th, 2005, 11:14 PM
Wonder why everybody does this the hard way? Take a piece of D-loop material and tie a loop in one end then melt the other end to form a mushroom. This finished piece is only about one inch long. If you really want to be neat, then serve the loop in one end instead of tying it. Insert it through the bus cable about five inches below the tie on point of your fallaway. Then serve above it about 1/2 inch long to keep it from sliding up the bus cable. On the Trophy Taker take another piece of D-Loop material and pass the end through the hole in the rest and then bring it back down upon it self and serve it forming a loop where it attaches to the rest. Then take the tag end and tie a sheet bend through the eye of the loop in your string. By adjusting the length of the sting attached to the eye it is very easy to time the rest and the knot never slips. You can now remove the rest and move it to another bow if you choose or take it off for hunting season if you happen to shoot a Whisker Biscuit for hunting as many do. You don't even have to remove the very small loop from the bus cable as it doesn't bother a thing. Then when you put the Trophy Taker back after hunting season it is a quick setup. It also looks very neat when rigged in this way. :)
Dave Nowlin

March 4th, 2005, 11:21 PM
Dave... unfortunately it's late.. and my brain ain't functioning too well. Gonna have to see pics of what you're referring to... having trouble w/ the mental picture..

March 4th, 2005, 11:28 PM
I'm sure a picture would help me too, I think I know, but maybe I am wrong again.

March 5th, 2005, 11:39 AM
I would appreciate pics also!

Dave Nowlin
March 5th, 2005, 11:42 AM
O. K. I'll try again. Start with a piece of string loop material 3 inches long. Burn both ends and make a good mushroom on one end. Take the other end and form a loop and serve the loop in such a way that the finished piece with eye is 1 1/2 inches long. Press your bow and insert it through the bus cable 5 inches below your fallaway rest. By putting it this far down the bus cable there is less distortion as the force applied is more straight down toward the cam. Serve the bus cable for a length of 1/2 inch or more directly above the loop. Take another piece of string loop material about 8 inches long and insert one end through the tie on point of the Trophy Taker, then burn both ends. Now double the end at the rest back over itself and serve in an eye. Now all that is required is to take the tag end of this string and tie a sheet bend through the eye in your bus cable. It is easy to adjust this knot to get the timing exactly the way you want. This knot binds itself when pressure is applied and will not slip, but is very easy to untie. As previously pointed out, should you take the Trohy Taker off in favor of a whisker biscuit for hunting, just leave the little loop in your bus cable so you can put the Trophy Taker back later with no hassle. Another advantage is, should you later need to take twists in your bus cable for tuning purposes you can simply untie the knot in the little loop take the necessary twists and retie your sheet bend. This set up when completed is very clean looking and trouble free. You will say, "why didn't I think of that." :)
Dave Nowlin

March 5th, 2005, 11:46 AM
Dave, that sounds really cool, now if I just knew what a sheet bend was I would be ok. :o


March 5th, 2005, 11:53 AM
Dave is this the type of sheet bend you are referring to? Sometimes different knots have variations...

Sheet Bend Knot (http://www.tollesburysc.co.uk/Knots/Sheet_bend.htm)

I would also like to see a pic of this setup, I understand most of it, would just like to solidify it in my mind with a pic...

Dave Nowlin
March 5th, 2005, 03:32 PM
HCAman you are 100% correct. You don't have to go under the standing part twice as they did in the right hand photo, but if you have excess tag end you can easily do so to get it out of the way. :cool:
Dave Nowlin

March 7th, 2005, 03:24 PM
Dave Nowlin do you have any pics of your method? thanks

Daniel Boone
March 7th, 2005, 03:41 PM
I will try to make it more clear. At indoor sectionals the strand cord on TT cut right into. Im assuming it was from the pressure of the cable with string pulled trough it. All I know is your shoot is over. Im tying mine on the outside with d-loop tie from now on. I will use string tied nocks.

March 7th, 2005, 09:49 PM
The way Daniel says to attach the TT cord to the bow cable is the way I attach mine. If the cord breaks its easy to repair without a bow press.
Keep a extra cable with you, and a lighter with you and have a arrow marked when the rest is fully raised. You can repair it in the feild very quickly. I tried it and it works.

March 8th, 2005, 04:33 PM
How do you ty the string nock

March 8th, 2005, 04:54 PM
HCAman, that is way too cool! How did you do that knot tying trick like that? That is very handy!! :)

Dave Nowlin
March 9th, 2005, 05:12 PM
If you prefer to tie off to a string loop, try tying a Catfish Loop in your bus cable to attach the down cord to. I use a Catfish Loop to attach my release to when shooting my bow. A Catfish Loop is built from serving material and will rotate completely around your string. It doesn't bind at all like a conventional tied on string loop. This thread was begun by talking about a free rotating loop which does not bind. I respectfully submit a comventional tied on string loop does bind. That's why many use it, to be able to control peep rotation. The Catfish Loop will actually rotate around your string and doesn't help at all with peep rotation. It does however allow you to come to full draw without torquing the string whatsoever. If you tie this on the bus cable and control it's position by serving above the loop and below the loop you will effectively construct a rotating eye attached to your bus cable which you can tie a sheet bend into to control the timing of your fallaway. You would not be splitting your string bundle or torquing your string. Possibly the best of all solutions. :)
Dave Nowlin

March 9th, 2005, 09:14 PM
Dave, you got any pictures of that method?

Dave Nowlin
March 10th, 2005, 01:00 AM
No, but you can research the Catfish Loop. I believe you can find reference to it either here or on Bowsite. I can't honestly remember which. That's how I learned to tie it. I build it out of .026 Diamondback and it will easily last the life of the string. If you build the string loop you shoot off of from it, you will find it far more resistant to fraying from wear caused by your release. I have Catfish Loops on all my bows. You will also NEVER have a failure of your string loop caused by knot slippage. i lost an arrow that way that I have never found. The loop failed just before I came to full draw and went sailing into the woods never to be seen again.
Dave Nowlin

March 10th, 2005, 09:56 AM
I do mine according to the Trophy Taker instructions. I serve down about 1" and attach the draw chord under the serving through the down buss cable and mushroom the end. Never had any problems with slipping or coming loose. I like the idea of tying a d-loop though right under the serving. May try that on my next set-up.

I have been doing the same, I have no issues with it. If I want to shorten which is usually the case, I just pull the rope out a little and melt off a little more. I don't see the need to mess with a D-loop.

March 10th, 2005, 10:29 AM
Dave is right, that catfish loop will out last most of us :p
I dont use it cuz of my peep.
Here is the link to it:


Dave Nowlin
March 10th, 2005, 12:29 PM
Jerry, if your string is very stable you shouldn't need the tied on loop to keep your peep rotation right. I have used the Catfish Loop with a peep with no problems. If you want extreme stability while using a fallaway, do the following. Tie on an 8 knot string nocking point above your nock & a 10 knot string nocking point below your nock then span all that with a Catfish Loop. It just doesn't get any better than that. If you can't do that and keep peep rotation correct, that should tell you something. You are shooting an unstable string and should replace it. :)
Dave Nowlin

March 27th, 2005, 11:44 AM

April 30th, 2005, 04:56 PM
Great info guys. TTT

May 1st, 2005, 12:53 AM

May 1st, 2005, 08:18 PM
I love how I'm always learning something new on this site!!