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TCR1
March 3rd, 2005, 03:24 PM
I was going to use the method recomended by d. Boone for my TT Shakey Hunter. I was planning to use a serving knot knock point as opposed to the brass nocking points for the reasons recomended on that thread by KBacon. First, how tight do I need to pull each overhand knot? Second, How do I finish the knot so that it doesn't come undone? What kind of serving do you recomend?

Thanks,
Ryan

JAVI
March 3rd, 2005, 03:50 PM
http://applearchery.com/stringserving.htm

TCR1
March 3rd, 2005, 05:24 PM
Thank you. I knew it was simple. That is simpler than I thought it would be. This knot is going to be directly on the cable. Is there any problem with putting glue onto it (the served knot)? I don't want to screw up the cable if the glue saturates through and into it.

Thanks again.

JAVI
March 3rd, 2005, 05:26 PM
Thank you. I knew it was simple. That is simpler than I thought it would be. This knot is going to be directly on the cable. Is there any problem with putting glue onto it?I've never needed glue but I reckon it won't hurt nothing...:D

TCR1
March 4th, 2005, 11:18 AM
Well it wasn't very hard, but except for the second knot, each overhand know was slightly above the previose one. Is that correct? I assume the second knot helps lock the first knots in place.

What seving material do you use for this. The stuff they gave me was fairly thick and I think it made a pretty big knot. I don't have a picture to share, but your feedback would be appreciated.

Javi,
Ssince you are a Hoyt person, I did this with my new Ulrtamag (its an 04). I just set it up last night, but am getting vane contact on the launcher of my TT Shakey Hunter. The shop guysaid I may need to trim the launcher, but I don't buy that. If I moved the rest forward, could that help eliminate contact? It is currently set so that the nook of the V falls at the back edge of the arrow shelf.

Thanks,
ryan

JAVI
March 4th, 2005, 02:50 PM
What seving material do you use for this. The stuff they gave me was fairly thick and I think it made a pretty big knot. I don't have a picture to share, but your feedback would be appreciated.

Javi,
Ssince you are a Hoyt person, I did this with my new Ulrtamag (its an 04). I just set it up last night, but am getting vane contact on the launcher of my TT Shakey Hunter. The shop guysaid I may need to trim the launcher, but I don't buy that. If I moved the rest forward, could that help eliminate contact? It is currently set so that the nook of the V falls at the back edge of the arrow shelf.

Thanks,
ryan

I use BCY nock thread...



Setting up a Trophy Taker drop-away on a Hoyt Tec riser….

1. Before permanent mounting, check that you will be able to adjust the rest to provide Ύ” centershot. On some risers you may need to use the left side windage screw hole.

2. Mount the short bar TT so that the froward edge of the mount is flush with the outside edge (away from the string), of the riser. I also level the mounting bar at 90 degrees to the string (no mechanical reason here, just a repeatable reference). This should give you maximum clearance for the windage adjustment screw.

3. Set your nocking point to put the center of your arrow nock even with the center of the Berger Buttonhole. This is the optimum position in my opinion.

4. Adjust the rest to center the arrow shaft on the BB hole, 90 degrees to the string. And set centershot to Ύ”.

5. Using an 8” to 10” cord first tie one end to the lever arm cord attachment hole.

6. Measure down the buss cable to a point approximately 2” below the TT lever arm, and tie a lose knot in the pull cord, leaving about 2” of slack in the cord.

7. Making sure that the knot will slip on the buss cable with a little help, nock an arrow and draw the bow. While you hold the bow at full draw have an assistant move the knot in the cord down the cable until the rest is at full up. Now mark the arrow at the juncture of the rest prongs and the arrow. Ok you can let down now.


8. Measure from the mark you just made on the arrow back toward the nock 2” and make another mark. This is the point that you want the rest to reach full up. This will provide you with the necessary guidance for the arrow.


9. Now nock and draw an arrow again, have your assistant observe the rest. Adjust the rest so that it will reach the full up position just as it reaches the 2” mark and remains at full extension while at full draw. It may take you a couple of tries to get it correct.

10. You should end up with the nock approximately 2 – 3 inches below the rest and with at least an 1 ½” of slack in the cord when the bow is not drawn.

11. Check that there is no binding of the buss cable at full draw and chinch all the knots. Serving above the cord knot on the buss cable to prevent slippage.


On some Hoyt Tec risers it may be necessary to trim a Ό” off the tips of the Shakey Hunter prongs to provide clearance. Some will hit the riser and or shelf and not drop all the way…. This isn’t an issue with the Original TT.

I shoot cock vane down for clearance of the ½” profile vanes I use, shorter profiles may not require the same action.

pjrol
March 4th, 2005, 03:24 PM
Hey thanks Javi, Just bought a protech off AT and have a TT coming. Looks like I should know how to put it on now. :)

TCR1
March 4th, 2005, 04:10 PM
Thanks again. I will print the directions and adjust the rest accordingly...after the shoot tomorrow morning that is! :D

Dave Nowlin
March 5th, 2005, 12:27 AM
I've always had good luck with the Shakey Hunter bringing the arrow full up about 1 1/2 inches before I come to full draw. If you come up too early, you may have problems with fletching contact as well as too much pressure on the bus cable. On many fallaways it seems even better to attach to the cable slide as it doesn't seem to effect the bows performance as much as putting pressure on bus cable. Some of the lighter arrows I have shot from my Black Knight have been chronographed at 318 f.p.s. with no fletching contact problems at all.
Dave Nowlin