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CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 10:45 AM
As you can see my ripcord is getting some severe contact. Apparently my pro shop can't set one up because i've been there twice trying to get this right...i know there are some super tuners on here and I need some help. Hopefully my pictures can get a little insight. The last picture is one of my cables, didn't know if that could affect it so i threw it in there. Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated. Also note i don't have a bow press because I'm only 17 and can't afford that. There is another pro shop I can take it to but, its a little bit of a drive so I want an idea whats going on before I try and take it there. I also shoot cock vane up and slightly tilt it so my fletching misses my cable.
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J Morris
November 25th, 2011, 11:01 AM
I had an issue with my drop away contacting about same location. I moved my nock point to about 3/16 to 1/4 inch high and everything stopped.

jim p
November 25th, 2011, 11:10 AM
I can't really see what is going on. I am going to assume that your bow is timed and is working properly and all you need to do is set up your rest.

First the rest cord works good if it comes back to the cable at about a 45 degree angle (if the cable is 4" behind the rest then attach the rest cord 4" below the rest on the cord) with the rest in the up position. I don't know if your rest cord is passed through the cable but I like to tie my rest cord to the cable just like you would tie one side of a d-loop to the string. After the cord is tied to the cable I take some serving and tie above the rest cord knot so that it can't slip. Daniel Boone on here did have a picture of how to do this. If you attach the rest cord in this manner you can make fine adjustments to get the rest falling just like you want.

Now that you know how to install the rest. You need to set the height of the rest in relation to the berger hole and to the nock so that the arrow is close to level with the bow not drawn. Again I am going to assume that you have the correct spine arrows. Now if you have an arrow with no fletching you can bare shaft tune the bow or if you would rather paper tune then go that route. Once you do this or maybe before you do this spray some foot powder on your fletching to see if you are getting contact with your rest. You can put lipstick on the edges of the fletching to check for contact if your mother is not looking.

Note if the shop has installed your rest cord through the cable and there is enough rest cord left to attach it as I described you may want to carefully cut the cord end off and pull it through the cable so that you can tie it on and adjust it yourself. If you don't think that you can do this and you decide to take it back to the shop then ask them to install it by tying it onto the cable and not running it through the cable.

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 11:22 AM
I can't really see what is going on. I am going to assume that your bow is timed and is working properly and all you need to do is set up your rest.

First the rest cord works good if it comes back to the cable at about a 45 degree angle (if the cable is 4" behind the rest then attach the rest cord 4" below the rest on the cord) with the rest in the up position. I don't know if your rest cord is passed through the cable but I like to tie my rest cord to the cable just like you would tie one side of a d-loop to the string. After the cord is tied to the cable I take some serving and tie above the rest cord knot so that it can't slip. Daniel Boone on here did have a picture of how to do this. If you attach the rest cord in this manner you can make fine adjustments to get the rest falling just like you want.

Now that you know how to install the rest. You need to set the height of the rest in relation to the berger hole and to the nock so that the arrow is close to level with the bow not drawn. Again I am going to assume that you have the correct spine arrows. Now if you have an arrow with no fletching you can bare shaft tune the bow or if you would rather paper tune then go that route. Once you do this or maybe before you do this spray some foot powder on your fletching to see if you are getting contact with your rest. You can put lipstick on the edges of the fletching to check for contact if your mother is not looking.

Note if the shop has installed your rest cord through the cable and there is enough rest cord left to attach it as I described you may want to carefully cut the cord end off and pull it through the cable so that you can tie it on and adjust it yourself. If you don't think that you can do this and you decide to take it back to the shop then ask them to install it by tying it onto the cable and not running it through the cable.
Thanks, it is level with the berger hole and bow is in time. Now that I do have fletching contact, what do i do?

Eric Jorgensen
November 25th, 2011, 11:35 AM
You may have a defect in your rest.

jim p
November 25th, 2011, 11:36 AM
I think that you need to check the position of the rest cord on the cable so that the rest is released from its locked position about 1" before you reach full draw. Then you need to shoot the arrow through a piece of newspaper to see if it makes a bullet hole and then you need to check for fletching contact on the rest using some foot powder or lipstick.

If your rest is not dropping you are going to get contact. As you start to let down your bow if the arrow rest remains in the up position for more than 2" before it starts to drop then adjust the rest cord up the cable so that it allows the rest to fall quicker. But don't move the rest cord up so far that it no longer releases the rest from its locked position.

Looking at your pictures it looks like you have your rest adjusted as low as it can go mechanically. So if you need to adjust the angle of your arrow down you will need to move the d-loop up. But you need to shoot it through some paper to decide if you need to move the rest or d-loop at all.

So stick an arrow on the string and pull the bow and watch how the release works both on draw and let down and tell me what you see.

jim p
November 25th, 2011, 11:45 AM
One other thing is that those cables look to be showing some significant wear. You may want to get some new ones or at least wax them up some. You don't want the cables or string to break on the bow while you are at full draw.

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 11:51 AM
^^^i know I'm getting a whole new set of 60x after the season is over. Ok, so I draw the bow back and just before full draw the rest is all the way up. Now i let the bow down slowly and as soon as the let off begins to leave the rest starts to fall. Last time i had a chance to paper tune it, i was getting a near bullet hole on some shots, and others would be a 1 inch tear. I don't have a target that is shoulder level or a way to hold paper at home.

slinger
November 25th, 2011, 11:54 AM
Looks like these pictures were taken while you're sitting in a treestand?
So, you're hunting with a bow that you know is out of tune?
I know you're only 17, but I would think that you'd have a little more respect for the animal than this.
Hope you get your bow straightened out.

moosemeat
November 25th, 2011, 11:57 AM
hard to tell but your nocking point looks low and the rest doesnt look square.if you can shoot a arrow thru paper and see what the arrow is doing.and try rotating your nock for better clearance.and yes wax those strings.

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 12:01 PM
Looks like these pictures were taken while you're sitting in a treestand?
So, you're hunting with a bow that you know is out of tune?
I know you're only 17, but I would think that you'd have a little more respect for the animal than this.
Hope you get your bow straightened out.

It shoots fine out to 30 yards, i just know there is fletching contact and anything past that it gets out of wack. I know my limits...

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 12:03 PM
hard to tell but your nocking point looks low and the rest doesnt look square.if you can shoot a arrow thru paper and see what the arrow is doing.and try rotating your nock for better clearance.and yes wax those strings.
By not being square, you mean that it's not level? Because if you hold the bow vertical at 90 degrees and lay it flat on the opposite side of the ripcord, it appear to be arched up in the back of the rest

Hoosier bowman
November 25th, 2011, 12:06 PM
Hey, here is what you need to do:

Cut the nocking loop off you bow.
Take the rest off and re-mount it to where the mounting bar is level.
Adjust the up-down of you rest until it is sitting slightly above the shelf after falling.
Nock and arrow and make sure that, when square (or 1/16" high) that the bottom of your arrow is going directly thru the berger hole.
Take a piece of serving and tie it around the string to create a marker for you loop. (If you tie it aroun a few extra times, it's much better...)
Get a loop tied on your bow.
Put a new cord or your rest.
Get your bow in a press and install the cord in your down cable.
Time rest so that it comes completely up about 1" or less before the end of the draw cycle.
Serve drop cord in to place.

BTW I am "only 17" as well and I have been working on bows longer than I can remember. I am actually the main archery tech at our local shop. Don't be afraid to experiment.....

If you don't trust your local shop, go on-line and look for other shops in the area.

jlh42581
November 25th, 2011, 12:09 PM
First thing that jumps up and screams at me is why in the world is that rest so far back? Its like its maxed out on horizontal travel.

Eric Jorgensen
November 25th, 2011, 12:10 PM
Take a cardboard box and cut a square out the size of some paper. Tape the papper to your box and start tuning! It works perfect. The best part is its very cheap!!

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 12:13 PM
Hey, here is what you need to do:

Cut the nocking loop off you bow.
Take the rest off and re-mount it to where the mounting bar is level.
Adjust the up-down of you rest until it is sitting slightly above the shelf after falling.
Nock and arrow and make sure that, when square (or 1/16" high) that the bottom of your arrow is going directly thru the berger hole.
Take a piece of serving and tie it around the string to create a marker for you loop. (If you tie it aroun a few extra times, it's much better...)
Get a loop tied on your bow.
Put a new cord or your rest.
Get your bow in a press and install the cord in your down cable.
Time rest so that it comes completely up about 1" or less before the end of the draw cycle.
Serve drop cord in to place.

BTW I am "only 17" as well and I have been working on bows longer than I can remember. I am actually the main archery tech at our local shop. Don't be afraid to experiment.....

If you don't trust your local shop, go on-line and look for other shops in the area.

I will try this. May just go to the other shop and do this all at once. If i had the tools i would do this at home..but I don't have the money right now for everything.


First thing that jumps up and screams at me is why in the world is that rest so far back? Its like its maxed out on horizontal travel.
I thought the same thing..it was hitting the shelf and wasn't resting level, so that was their fix. They are lazy enough said. I just wish i had all the tools i needed for this...

Eric Jorgensen
November 25th, 2011, 12:16 PM
I use my Allen wrench, Carpenters square, a level and my cardboard box to tune mine! If a press is needed then I have to head to the shop.

jim p
November 25th, 2011, 12:19 PM
It sounds like your rest is timed fairly close. So I would start moving the d-loop up to see if the contact will disappear. Sometimes you can move your d-loop up by twisting it in the correct direction around the serving. The serving will act like a screw and the d-loop will move as you twist it around the string. In some cases this wont work and you will have to loosen the d-loop and move it and then tighten it back down.

It is hard to tell if your rest is positioned at the correct distance away from the riser. Just check and see if the center of the arrow is around 7/8" to 1" from the riser. Once the fletching contact is eliminated you can fine tune the rest position for left and right by walkback tuning.

As a side note. You should be able to get rid of the fletching contact. But when it comes to fine tuning the bow you can only go as far as your skills will allow. So don't get caught up in the tuning part so much that you think that you have to have a perfect bullet hole or bare shafts and fletched arrows hitting the same spot exactly. Just get things as close as you can now and retune as you get more accurate.

Your form might be contributing to your tuning so you might want to post a picture of you shooting or have someone take a look at you shooting just to make sure that your draw length is in the ball park.

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 12:20 PM
I have all that, i would just have to use the football head thing instead of serving into the string. So for your box do you just set it up to get shoulder height? I think i can make this work lol

CarbonExpress
November 25th, 2011, 12:24 PM
It sounds like your rest is timed fairly close. So I would start moving the d-loop up to see if the contact will disappear. Sometimes you can move your d-loop up by twisting it in the correct direction around the serving. The serving will act like a screw and the d-loop will move as you twist it around the string. In some cases this wont work and you will have to loosen the d-loop and move it and then tighten it back down.

It is hard to tell if your rest is positioned at the correct distance away from the riser. Just check and see if the center of the arrow is around 7/8" to 1" from the riser. Once the fletching contact is eliminated you can fine tune the rest position for left and right by walkback tuning.



As a side note. You should be able to get rid of the fletching contact. But when it comes to fine tuning the bow you can only go as far as your skills will allow. So don't get caught up in the tuning part so much that you think that you have to have a perfect bullet hole or bare shafts and fletched arrows hitting the same spot exactly. Just get things as close as you can now and retune as you get more accurate.

Your form might be contributing to your tuning so you might want to post a picture of you shooting or have someone take a look at you shooting just to make sure that your draw length is in the ball park.

Thanks, i will try this, there is a brass nock in the d loop at the bottom. The loop is to large for just a nock since it will have a lot of play. I just want this contact gone and then i can focus on walkback tuning like you said

Eric Jorgensen
November 25th, 2011, 12:30 PM
I have all that, i would just have to use the football head thing instead of serving into the string. So for your box do you just set it up to get shoulder height? I think i can make this work lol

Yep shoulder height with my block hehind it!! Works great LOL!!

zombiehitman
November 25th, 2011, 01:21 PM
Sadly, not all "pro" shops are created equal.
Some have talent, some are hacks, and everything in between.
First, i am no expert on the ripcord, but the fundamentals of rest installation seem to have been overlooked in your install.
If i recall correctly, the launcher arm on the ripcord has to rotate a little past horizontal to allow the internal brake to function properly.
My money says that, with the amount of vane contact youre seeing, youre getting obnoxious amounts of bounceback. Essentially, your launcher arm is bouncing hard off your shelf, coming back up, and slapping your vanes as they pass through.
I would set the rest up so the launcher cannot contact the shelf, move the nock point to 1/8" high, and retune.
I would think to do all that would require a couple of allen wrenches, needlenose pliers, and a square to establish arrow angle in relation to the string, and some dental floss.
If you want me to walk you through the process, i can do it on the phone.
Its quite easy too.
PM me if youd like to take that option.

Eric Jorgensen
November 25th, 2011, 01:41 PM
Sadly, not all "pro" shops are created equal.
Some have talent, some are hacks, and everything in between.
First, i am no expert on the ripcord, but the fundamentals of rest installation seem to have been overlooked in your install.
If i recall correctly, the launcher arm on the ripcord has to rotate a little past horizontal to allow the internal brake to function properly.
My money says that, with the amount of vane contact youre seeing, youre getting obnoxious amounts of bounceback. Essentially, your launcher arm is bouncing hard off your shelf, coming back up, and slapping your vanes as they pass through.
I would set the rest up so the launcher cannot contact the shelf, move the nock point to 1/8" high, and retune.
I would think to do all that would require a couple of allen wrenches, needlenose pliers, and a square to establish arrow angle in relation to the string, and some dental floss.
If you want me to walk you through the process, i can do it on the phone.
Its quite easy too.
PM me if youd like to take that option.

Very cool of you to offer this!!

zombiehitman
November 25th, 2011, 02:23 PM
I hate to see fellow bowhunters struggle with their equipment.
We all have enough issues with our form, which we tend to, consciously or unconsciously, alter to get our arrows to do what we want them to do.
Fighting with a bow that doesnt shoot well is a headache we've all experienced, and the frustration has caused more than one of us to hang up the sport.
I deal with these types of issues every day, and i draw great satisfaction in helping someone get their gear working correctly.
This one is a simple fix. If he was nearby, i would do it for him, and he'd be shooting in about a half hour.
I cant say i like the ripcord, but its what hes got to work with.
My job isnt to belittle those whose equipment is outdated, antiquated, or what i like. My job is to help them make what they have work at it's absolute best, so they'll enjoy shooting more.
If they want my opinion, i will share it.
If they want to buy my wares, i will gladly sell them whatever they want.
I stand behind everything i sell, and if it's on my shelf, i believe it will serve you well.
If you're not pleased with my products or services, i want to know.
If i can make it right, i will.
If i cant make it right, you'll have a sincere apology, and your money back.
All i ask is this-if youre pleased with us, tell everyone you know. If youre displeased with us, please tell us so we can have the opportunity to make things as right as we are able.
Yes, i take it a little personal when something i built doesnt do what its intended to. Not because my name is on it, but because i failed you, and maybe my failure caused you to miss an opportunity of a lifetime.
And that makes me very very sad.
Every day, i pray for the strength to do whats right, the wisdom to know the answers, and the knowledge to put it all into service.
I thank Him for the opportunity to serve Him, and you, by extension.
You are the reason I am here, doing what i do best, and thats helping people like you resolve their equipment issues, so you can enjoy shooting as much as possible.
Now, back to boiling that stinky coon skull...my first...so i can honor him respectfully, in remembering the hunt, the excitement of the shot, the beauty of his existence, and the gifts he bestowed on my family and I.

Hoosier bowman
November 26th, 2011, 12:52 AM
I will try this. May just go to the other shop and do this all at once. If i had the tools i would do this at home..but I don't have the money right now for everything.


I thought the same thing..it was hitting the shelf and wasn't resting level, so that was their fix. They are lazy enough said. I just wish i had all the tools i needed for this...

All you need is a set of hex wrenches, some serving thread, and some kind of "squaring" device. You will only need a bow press for about 30 seconds to split the string and install the drop cord for your rest. Ask you local "pro" shop if they can do this for you. They will probably charge around $10, but it will be worth it in the end to be able to tune your bow. The rest of the work you can easily do on your own.

JWaltrip
November 26th, 2011, 01:15 AM
It shoots fine out to 30 yards, i just know there is fletching contact and anything past that it gets out of wack. I know my limits...

Good man.

catfishmafia76
November 26th, 2011, 07:43 AM
Thumbs up for everyone jumping in to help this young man. THIS is what this sight is about! Archers helping archers. Good luck getting your bow dialed in bud.

stubborn
November 26th, 2011, 08:09 AM
OMG!!!! This whole set up is whacked... look at the pics of the containment arms.. see those black marks running down the forks? That's from the vanes hitting the forks... the rest cord is tied in way wrong and dropping about a mile late... Cam timing could be way off and probably is if the tech thinks the rest is timed right. Seriously you need to find another pro shop to work on your bow... it looks like dicks or gander mountain employees worked on it.

dtrkyman
November 26th, 2011, 08:17 AM
someone close enough to him in missouri to help this kid out?

moonshiner
November 26th, 2011, 09:26 AM
CE where in MO you live?

P&y only
November 26th, 2011, 10:05 AM
The timing on the rest has to be HORRIBLE to get those marks. If you happen to be going north into Iowa a ways i would be happy to fix it for you. No charge. This is ridiculous. Don't waste your time and money at that shop agin.

P&y only
November 26th, 2011, 10:07 AM
Can you afford to ship it? Ill give ya a merry AT christmas tune if you can get it here.

drop'emdead
November 26th, 2011, 10:17 AM
Hey, here is what you need to do:

Cut the nocking loop off you bow.
Take the rest off and re-mount it to where the mounting bar is level.
Adjust the up-down of you rest until it is sitting slightly above the shelf after falling.
Nock and arrow and make sure that, when square (or 1/16" high) that the bottom of your arrow is going directly thru the berger hole.
Take a piece of serving and tie it around the string to create a marker for you loop. (If you tie it aroun a few extra times, it's much better...)
Get a loop tied on your bow.
Put a new cord or your rest.
Get your bow in a press and install the cord in your down cable.
Time rest so that it comes completely up about 1" or less before the end of the draw cycle.
Serve drop cord in to place.

BTW I am "only 17" as well and I have been working on bows longer than I can remember. I am actually the main archery tech at our local shop. Don't be afraid to experiment.....

If you don't trust your local shop, go on-line and look for other shops in the area.

X2 Had same issue with mine. Definately going to have to raise knocking point and rest up untill it doesnt hit the shelf.

jim p
November 26th, 2011, 11:46 AM
Well has any progress been made?

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 01:30 PM
Washington, Mo. Thanks all you guys for trying to help me with this. I'm going hunting up north this weekend so I really want to get this fixed or I'm gonna have to limit myself to a 30 yd or less shot. I don't have access to a bow press so I will take it to the shop and get the string served in. I really wish i had the press but that's ok. I'll also pm a few of you who offered so we can figure this out. Thanks a lot guys, this is awesome what your offering to help me

moonshiner
November 27th, 2011, 02:52 PM
your just outside of STL & you cant find a competent Bowshop?

I got a suggestion .. get on www.Missouriwhitetails.com there will be someone on there from your area that can point you in the right direction

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 05:41 PM
:frusty:...I want to fix this so bad right now, but I don't have time this week. I have good patience and this bow is severely testing it

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 05:44 PM
your just outside of STL & you cant find a competent Bowshop?

I got a suggestion .. get on www.Missouriwhitetails.com there will be someone on there from your area that can point you in the right direction

I can't afford a press, not to mention I dropped 90 bucks on this rest, I still can't blame the rest its just not set up right. I have allen wrenches and square. So I need to run by a shop to get the string put in my cable and then while I'm there I will try to get it all set up...if that doesn't work I'm meeting someone/calling them for help

va limbhanger
November 27th, 2011, 06:07 PM
Maybe I'm looking at the last pic. wrong, but it looks like where his bus and controll cable cross each other? Looks like something isn't routed correctly there? They should not be touching each other and probably about 1/4" away from one another.

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:11 PM
Maybe I'm looking at the last pic. wrong, but it looks like where his bus and controll cable cross each other? Looks like something isn't routed correctly there? They should not be touching each other and probably about 1/4" away from one another.
Do you suspect cam lean?

va limbhanger
November 27th, 2011, 06:17 PM
Do you suspect cam lean?

No on the cam lean. More like someone got the "over and under" backwards when routing the cables. If you have cam lean then you need to do some twisting on your buss cable yoke.

completepassthru
November 27th, 2011, 06:19 PM
The main this is the timing of the rest. You cannot just slap one, tie it in and be good to go. The rest can be timed at a optimal position. I have never had one that made contact. If you move your nock point higher all your doing is putting a bandaid on the problem in my opinion. Time the rest and then paper tune it. I have seen guys bring bows in like this that have had the nocking point moved up. What this does is just make the arrow come out nock high. If your timing is right and you paper tune you will not have contact.

All that said it is possible you have a defective rest but it is usually not the case.

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:22 PM
No on the cam lean. More like someone got the "over and under" backwards when routing the cables. If you have cam lean then you need to do some twisting on your buss cable yoke. I wouldn't doubt it at this shop...i just checked cam lean with my brother, or at least best I could and it looked straight. Here is a better picture of the cables. Nevermind the Taylor Swift poster :wink:
1216162

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:23 PM
The main this is the timing of the rest. You cannot just slap one, tie it in and be good to go. The rest can be timed at a optimal position. I have never had one that made contact. If you move your nock point higher all your doing is putting a bandaid on the problem in my opinion. Time the rest and then paper tune it. I have seen guys bring bows in like this that have had the nocking point moved up. What this does is just make the arrow come out nock high. If your timing is right and you paper tune you will not have contact.

All that said it is possible you have a defective rest but it is usually not the case.

Look at the mounting bracket though, it's not level and out of wack. I might just take a video of my rest in motion and you guys can decide if it's out of "time"

GTO63
November 27th, 2011, 06:28 PM
It looks to me your launcher arm is hitting your riser pretty hard, its not allowing the brake to kick in. You need to raise your point higher then move your rest up and adjust for center shot.
I also agree the mounting block in not level, that should be your starting point.

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:30 PM
Gonna have a video up in 10 mins of the rest in draw.

va limbhanger
November 27th, 2011, 06:30 PM
I wouldn't doubt it at this shop...i just checked cam lean with my brother, or at least best I could and it looked straight. Here is a better picture of the cables. Nevermind the Taylor Swift poster :wink:
1216162

That looks more like it. I guess the first pic. of the cables looked like they were rubbing together, but it's obvious the aren't. Don't like the looks of that brass nock in your loop though. Much safer and faster to put a tied nock in there. Kinda looks like your drop cord is tied in pretty low?

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:34 PM
Ya it's a mess i know lol. The shop who set it up just doesn't cut it anymore. I'm trying to learn everything I can so I don't need shops anymore...

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 06:42 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJbyyfY-kvw&feature=youtu.be

jim p
November 27th, 2011, 08:45 PM
If you have the rest in the up and locked position and then draw the bow will the rest fall as you let the bow down?

I read somewhere that the rest cord needs to be attached to the cable so that when the bow is at full draw the rest cord is coming out of the rest at about a 45 degree angle. If the cord is attached too far down the bus cable the rest cord will wear on the rest where it goes inside the housing. Or so I have read.

You could move your rest cord up your cable by about 3 to 4" from the way it looks.

Also it looks like the rest starts to drop as soon as you start to let the bow down. I think that you want it to stay up for maybe 1" of forward arrow travel. Maybe someone can verify this. Because I just can't see the video all that well.

P&y only
November 27th, 2011, 09:01 PM
Everything is harder on the internet. Angle of the camera can fool ya too. But it looks like your arrow is not parallel to your slide rod. And that rest is dropping way too soon which shouldn't cause your rubbing issue unless the rest is bouncing back up. My ofer is still good if you'd like to have it tuned correctly.

bjesse60
November 27th, 2011, 09:09 PM
I hate to see fellow bowhunters struggle with their equipment.
We all have enough issues with our form, which we tend to, consciously or unconsciously, alter to get our arrows to do what we want them to do.
Fighting with a bow that doesnt shoot well is a headache we've all experienced, and the frustration has caused more than one of us to hang up the sport.
I deal with these types of issues every day, and i draw great satisfaction in helping someone get their gear working correctly.
This one is a simple fix. If he was nearby, i would do it for him, and he'd be shooting in about a half hour.
I cant say i like the ripcord, but its what hes got to work with.
My job isnt to belittle those whose equipment is outdated, antiquated, or what i like. My job is to help them make what they have work at it's absolute best, so they'll enjoy shooting more.
If they want my opinion, i will share it.
If they want to buy my wares, i will gladly sell them whatever they want.
I stand behind everything i sell, and if it's on my shelf, i believe it will serve you well.
If you're not pleased with my products or services, i want to know.
If i can make it right, i will.
If i cant make it right, you'll have a sincere apology, and your money back.
All i ask is this-if youre pleased with us, tell everyone you know. If youre displeased with us, please tell us so we can have the opportunity to make things as right as we are able.
Yes, i take it a little personal when something i built doesnt do what its intended to. Not because my name is on it, but because i failed you, and maybe my failure caused you to miss an opportunity of a lifetime.
And that makes me very very sad.
Every day, i pray for the strength to do whats right, the wisdom to know the answers, and the knowledge to put it all into service.
I thank Him for the opportunity to serve Him, and you, by extension.
You are the reason I am here, doing what i do best, and thats helping people like you resolve their equipment issues, so you can enjoy shooting as much as possible.
Now, back to boiling that stinky coon skull...my first...so i can honor him respectfully, in remembering the hunt, the excitement of the shot, the beauty of his existence, and the gifts he bestowed on my family and I.

I wish the people like you were the majority in retail, I would feel more comfortable letting other people touch my equipment then. :beer:

CarbonExpress
November 27th, 2011, 09:27 PM
I wish the people like you were the majority in retail, I would feel more comfortable letting other people touch my equipment then. :beer:

agreed

completepassthru
November 29th, 2011, 09:21 PM
Look at the mounting bracket though, it's not level and out of wack. I might just take a video of my rest in motion and you guys can decide if it's out of "time"

I do not believe the mounting bracket not being sqare is not causing your contact. You should also cock your rest in the up position before drawing your bow. When you let down the rest should go down like it does. Again, time your rest and paper tune the bow and you should not have any contact. Also the cord really does not have to be at a certain angle to work properly. I have seen them tied in almost at rest height and work fine. But i do tie them in lower.

You can put on a new cord and insert through the down cable but do not cut yet. Putting a new cord on a Ripcord is a bit of a job. Cock the rest to the up position first, draw the bow and let down. The rest should go down. Lengthen the cord a bit and repeat until it the launcher does not go down. Shorten the cable a bit until the launcher goes down and cut and thie the cord in there.

maxxis88
November 29th, 2011, 09:56 PM
level mounting bracket, move rest forward a little, and shorten the rest string (move up cable). It looks long in the video.