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View Full Version : Is it me, or are shops not selling the correct arrows?



silverback
March 13th, 2005, 02:24 PM
Is it me or are shops consitently selling the wrong arrows anymore? The last three times I have bought arrows, from 3 different shops, for two different bows, I have ended up with left paper tears, or weak spine reactions. I thought it was my grip until I noticed that just about everyone at the range I go to all have significant left tears.

I shoot my bow at 72# and I have a hard time even finding stiff enough arrows. Most places only carry 400's and have to special order 340's or 300's.
I may be wrong, but I thought there were a lot of people shooting 70# bows and these shops don't seem to be carrying stiff enough arrows.

For instance, I just bought a new bow a few months ago. Bought arrows at the same time, and got home to find they weren't even on the chart for my bow. Of course the shop would sell me new arrows, but not take back the ones that it had incorrectly sold me.

I remember when I started into archery all there was was the easton placemat. It seemed to work pretty well as long as the dealer knew how to use it. Now there are so many variables, but no universal sizing system like the easton aluminums have. It seems harder to get the right arrow.

I like buying archery stuff, but I hate buying arrows that won't tune. It's a waste of money. I guess I'll buy a program that tells me which arrows to use, but these shops should know what they are doing. I imagine some of these mistakes result in bow damage.

Jorge Oliveira
March 13th, 2005, 04:55 PM
Get the Easton shaft selector program.

Next time, you can order the right arrow and not depend on the shop...
BTW, this program works for any brand. Select your arrow, look at the spine and order one with the same spine :cool:

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/programs/ShaftSelector2005/setup.exe

njshadowwalker
March 13th, 2005, 05:18 PM
once you find an arrow that flies well stick with it...

Your best bet is ALWAYS do your research b4 you hit the shop. Go in with 2 choices and tell them what you want. Or else youll be stuck with arrows that wont tune.

2ndchance
March 13th, 2005, 06:03 PM
deffinatly know about what you want before you buy it and take the shops advise UNLESS YOU KNOW the shop will steer you in the right direction.

tmarch
March 13th, 2005, 06:28 PM
One thing I've noticed is that the charts don't seem to consider the added performance of the newer bows, especially charts that are a few years old. Right now I'm shooting 300 spine arrows out of a 72 lb. bow and the only option if I go with more performance is to shorten these or go with lighter points.

Jorge Oliveira
March 13th, 2005, 06:33 PM
One thing I've noticed is that the charts don't seem to consider the added performance of the newer bows, especially charts that are a few years old. Right now I'm shooting 300 spine arrows out of a 72 lb. bow and the only option if I go with more performance is to shorten these or go with lighter points.

I think the problem are not the charts - AFAIK there are no arrows with spine harder than .300, except for fat shafts.

silverback
March 13th, 2005, 07:25 PM
Jorge got to the point I didn't know I was trying to make. none of the arrows seem stiff enough unless you want to drop draw weight or shoot something really heavy.

Personally I liked the old carbons with the outserts. Those were stiff.

I did use the easton program and it pointed me to lightspeeds 340s for the last set of arrows I bought, but they still aren't stiff enough.

like somebody said, I don't think the charts can account for all the different types of cams on bows these days.

Tautog Rich
March 13th, 2005, 07:35 PM
A shop near me in Bordentown, NJ called Sportsmen's Center actually saved me BIG money this past week. I thought my arrows were too stiff after cutting them down to workon an overdraw. Guy checks everything out and discovers a very minor problem I had not noticed, which threw my centershot off a hair. Said, no you don't need anything sir. Put a laser on and found centershot--NO CHARGE. I didn't have to but bought some Sims antivibration stuff from the shop. I don't work there, don't have friends working there, don't know the owner, and have no vested interest in the store. Just telling you there are some honest guys out there who will steer you right. I got lucky!

Trushot_archer
March 13th, 2005, 07:47 PM
That's refreshing to hear Rich. Too few places like that these days.

Tautog Rich
March 13th, 2005, 08:04 PM
Maybe actually looking like my avatar and talking about getting a new climbing stand impressed the guy. That, and my wife looks like she is in her late twenties. :eek:

Jorge Oliveira
March 13th, 2005, 08:18 PM
Jorge got to the point I didn't know I was trying to make. none of the arrows seem stiff enough unless you want to drop draw weight or shoot something really heavy.


Take a look at this thread - I didn't even know these arrows existed!

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163476

2ndchance
March 13th, 2005, 10:41 PM
it is indeed tough to find stiff arrows. all of the "hunter arrows" only go up to .340 in spine. thats awfully funny to be since the hunters are shooting the heavier poundage. like stated above, i think the charts they are still printing are great for older bows but no good for todays hard cams

Jorge Oliveira
March 13th, 2005, 10:49 PM
There is the Gold Tip Big Game 100+ - spine .280

(new to me - I'm not a hunter, I don't shoot heavy bows...)

sweet old bill
March 14th, 2005, 06:21 AM
I find that the charts work most of the time, but it also is depending on setup.
I have several arrows made up in carbon and let a customer try them to see whick spince does work best for them in there setup. Most times it is the 400 or 340 size...I also seem to think if you use the chart to go one more to the right than the acutal of your arrow measurement and you will then get a stiff shaft. I like a laot of you can always get a stiff shaft to fly but if it is underspines it is turn down the weight or shortern the arrow....

njshadowwalker
March 14th, 2005, 05:03 PM
Better off buying one of each in 3 different sizes. Find the one that tunes and shoots the best and then buy a dozen.

At least this way you dont end up buying a dozen useless arrows.

djdew
March 14th, 2005, 05:30 PM
just a quik ? im new to archery and im not trying to be a smart ***** but wouldnt it just be a lot easyer to set your bow down some just becuse it can be set at 70 dont mean it has to be . i just bought a bow its 55 to 70 pounds i can shoot 70 but i am going to crank it down to 55 for the simple fact i can get arrows a lot easyer to shoot at that waight and i know it will kill a deer just as dead as 70 will . if thare is a true reson i shouldnt shoot my bow at a lower poundage please explane becuse i am new and i can alwas learn more thanks dan

njshadowwalker
March 14th, 2005, 05:34 PM
Weight means nothing....

Its not easier to shoot and arrow at 55 then at 70 or vice versa.

In the end its all in your form. If you can pull 70 without pointing towards space then do so. On a marginal hit or a hit that finds the shoulder for whatever reason the addes poundage is worth its weight in gold.

Bow will always perform better at the top end of its weight range also and be a little quieter.

My bow is 60/70. Cranked down its pulling 72# at 29". To me there is no advamtage in going to 60.

Jorge Oliveira
March 14th, 2005, 06:13 PM
i just bought a bow its 55 to 70 pounds i can shoot 70 but i am going to crank it down to 55 for the simple fact i can get arrows a lot easyer to shoot at that waight

If you are new, I would start at 55 and say every month (if you have constant practice), screw in the bolts one turn.

Draw weigh gets easier with time.
When you fell it's enough, stop.

Whatever the weight may be.

silverback
March 14th, 2005, 06:26 PM
I wish the shops aroud me had some arrows set up that I could test, but they're all cut at 27" or 28". So I'm stuck buying some if I want to try them.

I thought it was me, but it does appear that at least 2ndchance agrees that it is tough to find a stiff arrow. I can't imagine the guys shooting 80#. They must have almost no selection in carbon. I used to have an 80# ultratec... now I'm a little older and a little wiser (in other words Cold November weather + 80# + 65% let off + having to draw four times on a buck chasing a doe = an empty spot on the wall)

Yeah you don't have to shoot the bow maxed out. But a lot of companies say their bows shoot better toward the top of the adjustment. I agree. Plus, I'm a big guy, so 70# isn't a big deal for me especially with 80% L/O. I think I have better form on heavier draws. It locks me in.

It seems like the newer one cams more demanding of a stiff spine. But then again, I just bough my first one cam bow in January.

njshadowwalker
March 14th, 2005, 06:26 PM
He said he can pull 70....

What good does staring at 55 do? As long as the form is there along with a smooth release the bow will shoot the same.

Jorge Oliveira
March 14th, 2005, 07:36 PM
He is new at archery; his back muscles are not fully developped yet.

He said also he is at easy with 55 - this to me means that though he can pull 70, he is not at easy.

So, a bit at a time he will develop his muscles and get wherever he feels good.

djdew
March 15th, 2005, 03:50 AM
hi guys what i ment about easyer is that i can buy beman ics 400 arrows a lot cheaper than the beman ics 340s or the 300s. i should of said in my poast im new to archery agine in 2002 i sold off every thing to do with archery i owend thinking i wouldnt try it agine . but a good buddy talked me into it agin when i had my old bow it was set at 71 pounds with 28 1/2 draw i had no prob using it at all . most of my shooting with my new bow will be target and it might see 2 weeks in the woods total . i should of put more thought behind my post befor i made it . i will agree that most shops that sell archery gear are in it for a quik buck and not what you want . i do my home work befor i buy any sporting goods items if i cant find the info i need i ask a few people that knows what thare talking about befor hand .

Len in Maryland
March 15th, 2005, 08:16 AM
The better the bow is tuned and the better the form/execution, then the spine selection will increase. In other words, the spine selection 'tolerance' will get wider.

I checked and couldn't find where you mentioned what arrow length/tip weight you needed. This, of course, affects spine selection.

We have several Techs shoot most of the customers' bows we tune to assure good results. This way we have a better idea of what to do when problems concerning tune arise. What do we do? We work with the customer to correct what usually results in form problems.

Maybe working with a 'good' PRO Shop/PRO 'might' yield a form flaw that you've never considered and that is causing repeated problems. :wink: