March 20th, 2005, 11:21 AM
I just set up a new Merlin Max Extreme bow this weekend and with the help of the Anchor Site from Archery Innovations I got the bow the stack arrows very quickly. Hard on the arrow finish but always rewarding when setting up a new bow. My issue is with the paper tuning. I have not done paper tuning before and everything I read is based on right hand shooting. They say to do the reverse to correct the problem if you are left handed. Is that for every condition? Example: I cannot get the bow to shoot anything but a left nock high tear. The diagonal tear is around 2 -2.5 inches. I have adjusted the nock point with some improvement and I have adjusted the rest as close to the riser as possible (this is the reverse procedure for this type of tear for righties). The articles also state that an underspined arrow can cause this so I assumed that this meant that I maybe had an overspined arrow (being a lefty) and added a heavier tip to weaken the spine (100g up to 125). This resulted in very little difference. As a lefty is this (reverse) spining issue a correct assumption? Any other ideas on how to improve my arrow flight in this situation?
March 20th, 2005, 03:42 PM
Yep everything except the up down. But if your getting tight groups who cares what a paper tear looks like.
March 20th, 2005, 04:22 PM
I agree, but it is fun to tinker to get things just right.
March 20th, 2005, 10:28 PM
Well if you did not paper tune your arrows then you could not use fixed broadheads for hunting without the arrow flight being way off course. I used mechanical broadheads as of now. Is this a correct assumption?
March 21st, 2005, 12:53 AM
Yep. Overspined. Hope you didn't cut them all the same length. Cut one about 3" longer and see if the paper tear goes away or changes to the other side. If it tears to the other side, cut off 1/4" at a time until it either bullet holes or you get a slight up tear.
Just for reference, changing point weight has a small effect on spine, but changing arrow LENGTH has a large effect. Moral of the story: don't cut all your arrows before you tune ;)
Many people have problems with paper tuning and give up in disgust because until you get close to the correct spine, none of the changes show any effect. You have to get real close first, and the way to do this is to start with an arrow that is clearly too long.
March 21st, 2005, 07:45 AM
Question? If you buy an arrow based on the manufactures charts(I bought Gold Tips, with only 2 arrow choices), what effect does the arrow length have on the spine? Is there a conversion method for amount of arrow that is cut off? As recommended in above post would I be better off using a less spined arrow to begin with so I could use the shortest arrow possible or buy the recommended arrow and then slowly cut to size? Oh by the way I did cut all 6 arrows to length :sad: You are right about tip wieght...little effect. I switched between 100 and 125g tips last night and the tear changed only a small amount.