PDA

View Full Version : Supra Max cam timing



shamus275
January 6th, 2013, 05:08 PM
I got my '13 Supra Max the other day and as I was looking it over noticed that the timing marks are not on the same side of the string at the top or bottom. Is this the way its suppose to be? Its been long time since I've shot a dual cam PSE. This is how it came from the factory.

Top cam
1561337

Bottom cam
1561338

Bow Me
January 6th, 2013, 05:13 PM
Have you tuned the bow? Those marks are just for a starting point. Once you have ata and brace height in spec and cams timed, the marks will be in different spots.

kwilde
January 6th, 2013, 05:15 PM
Check sync at full draw, the marks were definitely off on mine, looked similar to yours

shamus275
January 6th, 2013, 05:16 PM
No, I don't have it set up at all yet. I don't have a draw board and only have a Bowmaster press with the split limb adapter.

shamus275
January 6th, 2013, 05:21 PM
Well, I did slap a rest and d-loop on to shoot a few arrows but that's as far I got. Otherwise, I haven't done any tuning to it yet.

shamus275
January 6th, 2013, 05:50 PM
Check sync at full draw, the marks were definitely off on mine, looked similar to yours

I checked the draw stops ala Chance Beaubouf style using a hook in the basement rafter and they're hitting the cables at the same time. The bow is in specs with ATA and BH.

50 plus
January 7th, 2013, 08:11 AM
Mine came with only a mark on the bottom cam, and none on the top cam. I guess it was probably built on Friday at closing time.

Belicoso
January 7th, 2013, 08:47 AM
Mine came with only a mark on the bottom cam, and none on the top cam. I guess it was probably built on Friday at closing time.

I guess you gonna use the cable stops anyhow,so no need for the top mark at all.

Unicron
January 7th, 2013, 09:05 AM
That looks off timing indeed. I'd do this:

1. Shoot the bow a few times. Get it settled at around 50-150 shots. Don't bother setting it up too much, just shoot blank bale at 5-10 feet or something.

2. Look up yoke tuning for reference. Nuts&Bolts has that great guide of his.

3. Put the bow in a press and twist / untwist till the markings line up and the brace height sits right. I personally never bother with checking the ATA, as I never have my 60# bows at 60# or 70 at 70#. (usually 55-58 and 65)

4. Check back to guide to see if you have centershot (up / down) aka creep-tune it.

5. Get your arrowrest tuned. (should be quite easy now) Set your pins and get the yardages shot.

6. Enjoy your now tuned bow!

Belicoso
January 7th, 2013, 09:20 AM
3. Put the bow in a press and twist / untwist till the markings line up and the brace height sits right. I personally never bother with checking the ATA, as I never have my 60# bows at 60# or 70 at 70#. (usually 55-58 and 65)

On all Supras with Me cams I have seen so far ,my own included,if both timing marks on the cams are exactly the same position on the cables the bottom cam hits a good amount before the top cam,so going by the marks is not enough if you like to have your cams in sync.

tmorelli
January 7th, 2013, 09:44 AM
The timing marks are irrelevant. If you what i do with mine you'd freak.

Draw stops, aim, and feel are all that matter.

When the top cam hits the same or just a touch before the bottom, you're very close.

Yoke tune/shim for centershot. Creep tune for smallest vertical groups.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

shamus275
January 7th, 2013, 09:55 AM
Thanks for the replies, I guess I've got some reading to do as I've never yoke or creep tuned before!

ia bhtr
January 7th, 2013, 02:56 PM
Thanks for the replies, I guess I've got some reading to do as I've never yoke or creep tuned before!

You will be amazed if you havent done these :)

ia bhtr
January 7th, 2013, 02:56 PM
Thanks for the replies, I guess I've got some reading to do as I've never yoke or creep tuned before!

You will be amazed if you havent done these :)

TRDJer
January 8th, 2013, 07:49 PM
The markings on the cams will not be symmetrical when you time your cams. Once suggestion: Do yourself a favor and put Bomar draw stops on them. Having that solid contact makes the timing fine tuning much easier. With the spongy factory stops they could be out little bit and by feel you may not notice it.

BigBird1
January 8th, 2013, 09:50 PM
+2 for Bomar cam stops - they are a must if you pull into the wall and use a BT release. Once I started yoke tuning by checking upper cam alignment at full draw, I found it much easier to paper tune.

shamus275
January 8th, 2013, 09:54 PM
I have the bomar stops on it, much more solid than the factory stops! I started the tuning process yesterday and almost had it paper tuned and my Spot Hogg Edge rest left/right adjustment bolt sheared off so I had to send that back to them this morning. Hopefully I get my rest in a timely matter to continue the process.