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JovenPadaguan
September 6th, 2006, 10:56 AM
Hi, a friend of mine wants to shoot X7 shafts for indoor, he shoots recurve, and the Easton chart says 1914 or 2012 shaft size.
What do you think is better? to follow the Easton chart, or go directly to 23XX sizes?

baldmountain
September 6th, 2006, 11:09 AM
Hi, a friend of mine wants to shoot X7 shafts for indoor, he shoots recurve, and the Easton chart says 1914 or 2012 shaft size.
What do you think is better? to follow the Easton chart, or go directly to 23XX sizes?

I know the compound guys like the full length fat shafts but I'm not so sure that they are as good as shorter proper sized shafts. (No facts to back that up, just a hunch.) Personally I'm shooting 2012s.

Viper1
September 6th, 2006, 11:26 AM
J -

Maybe I missed something, but the draw weight of the bow and his draw length would be??? We're also assuming is a FITA type bow???

Viper1 out.

JovenPadaguan
September 6th, 2006, 01:06 PM
J -

Maybe I missed something, but the draw weight of the bow and his draw length would be??? We're also assuming is a FITA type bow???

Viper1 out.


Yes, FITA type, it's a Hoyt Matrix, 27"DL, 42#.

Viper1
September 6th, 2006, 02:17 PM
J -

#42 at 27"? Cut to clicker lenght (less than 27") - 1914s are close, I could make a good case for 1816s - but they haven't been made in X7s in years :(.

Never really been into that line cutter stuff - personal call. The softest 23xx (2312) deflects 0423", not for this puppy.

Viper1 out.

JovenPadaguan
September 6th, 2006, 04:11 PM
I don't remember his DL, maybe 28"... the chart result was 1914 or 2012.
Yep, I know 2312 is too big for him, only want to know if shooting FITA indoor (recurve bow) with 23XX sizes is usual, or only a couple of archers shoot them.

Viper1
September 6th, 2006, 05:08 PM
J -

There's a gentleman down in the Traditional forum shooting 2315s (IIRC) full length (about 5" of over hang) with six 5" feathers and heavy heads from a #29 bow - barebow. May sound silly, but he's point on at twenty yards, and does quite well for himself. Of course the bow is totally useless beyond 22 yds, but that what it was "tuned" for.

Viper1 out.

Collins
September 6th, 2006, 05:10 PM
I have witnessed a fella take 1st in state shooting 2512 out of a barebow recurve at 38lb. but boy was it ugly

calbowdude
September 6th, 2006, 07:28 PM
There are at least a few shooters using the logs. I believe Vic Wunderle, Butch Johnson and John Magera (limbwalker around these here parts) use or have used 2315's with heavy points, and none of those 3 guys exactly suck. Although John has some serious monkey-length arms, and so maybe his arrows are perfectly matched to his setup, without having to shoot them full length.

Some local recurvers are using either Carbontech hippos with lots of point weight and/or left long, and I'm using 2213 X7's left an inch long, with 100 grain points. BTW, 46.5# @ 27.75", beiter long nocks, 16 strand 8125 string, 9" brace height. In my case the arrows tuned up readily via bareshaft, and I have the medium plunger in there turned in about halfway.

Now, do the arrows make a difference? Maybe. I did try a comparison a bunch of months ago, and I found my scores were a couple of points higher with X7's vs. ACE's, all due to the fact that I nicked a couple of lines here and there that I would have missed with the ACE's.

I suspect that for the good shooters (tournament 290+ indoors), there may be no significant difference. Frangilli uses ACE's, and he shoots in the 90's indoors- 590's. :eek:

Hope I didn't mis-state anything, any errors are strictly my own.

Radman
September 6th, 2006, 08:58 PM
We are talking FITA here. Remember that the largest legal diameter is 9.3mm. Due to manufacturing methods a 2315 is the largest legal shaft. Any 23 series shaft thicker than the 15 will be oversize and illegal! This has been hashed out in the fall months for the last two years. There are FITA judge bullitens and guages that tell the judges to reject those shafts.
If the charts say 1914 or 2012, go with the 1914. The only way to describe a xx12 or xx13 shaft is FRAGLE. Touch it with another arrow and it is gone. The xx14 and thicker shafts will take a beating and still go in the gold. I think that is what you are looking for.

baldmountain
September 7th, 2006, 05:21 AM
The only way to describe a xx12 or xx13 shaft is FRAGLE. Touch it with another arrow and it is gone.

I'm not sure I completely believe that. I've been shooting a set 2012 for a couple years. They look pretty beat up, but they are still pretty straight. I think the only time I've bent or broken one was shooting it into a tree, rock or concrete. As long as I keep them in the target they are fine, even if they are slamming into the backs of each other...

xxxxshooter
September 7th, 2006, 05:51 AM
Since this thread already has taken a turn to ACE vs X7: do you believe that X7's - regardless of the line cutting stuff - are more accurate due to the added weight and larger vanes/feathers (slower out of the blow, more forgiving to small errors) ?

baldmountain
September 7th, 2006, 05:58 AM
Since this thread already has taken a turn to ACE vs X7: do you believe that X7's - regardless of the line cutting stuff - are more accurate due to the added weight and larger vanes/feathers (slower out of the blow, more forgiving to small errors) ?

Not sure, but ACE are 4 times as expensive. I'll stick to X7s.

Viper1
September 7th, 2006, 07:16 AM
Blady -

The problem I have with xx12 shafts is that I can't (re)straighten them. The walls dent under my straightening jig. In that regard, yes, they are more fragile. xx14 is about as low as I'll go. Happily, I don't have to straighten too many :eek:

Viper1 out.

baldmountain
September 7th, 2006, 07:57 AM
Blady -

The problem I have with xx12 shafts is that I can't (re)straighten them. The walls dent under my straightening jig. In that regard, yes, they are more fragile. xx14 is about as low as I'll go. Happily, I don't have to straighten too many :eek:

Viper1 out.

I figure if they are bent enough to be noticable then they are not structurally sound and I throw them out. Last thing I want is an arrow to colapse during release. You hear too many stories about an arrow exploding and going right through a person's arm. Ouch!

Viper1
September 7th, 2006, 09:03 AM
Baldy -

Those exploding arrows are usually carbons or woods (which are pretty much the same thing if you think about it...) I've fixed some pretty nasty bends in aluminums. Creases and dents are another story.

Viper1 out.

baldmountain
September 7th, 2006, 09:21 AM
Well, I said exploding, but I really mean colapsing.

I'm getting out of my area of expertese so I'm being subjective... When you start bending aluminum enough that it remains bent and then straightening it the aluminum starts becoming brittle and is more prone to a complete failure. I get nervous about this and tend to ditch aluminums when they bend. Price-wise, compared to carbons, aluminum arrows are almost disposable. (But not quite... :D )

Viper1
September 7th, 2006, 09:35 AM
Baldy -

We might be getting on to a whole different topic. While what you say is true in theory, the alloys used for aluminum arrows are more than strong enough to withstand a bend or two and restraightening, provided there aren't any creases or dents. I've yet to see an aluminum arrow (properly matched to the bow) collapse on release.

Also, we're not talking about repeated bending past the modulous tolerance of the shaft. Hopefully, we're not damaging that many arrows. I have no qualms about shooting an arrow that I restraighted, and usually can't see the difference in the target either. :)

Viper1 out.

calbowdude
September 7th, 2006, 08:58 PM
Viper1 has it right. Slight bends and curves are OK to straighten, dents/creases/dings are not, I toss those out. I shoot a vegas 3 spot for practice, so I don't have that whacking into each other problem. Now that I think of it, I may not have that problem even shooting on a 40cm face...:confused:

As far as X7's more accurate than ACE's, not sure. There has been some lively discussions on this topic. Vittorio and Michele Frangilli believe that the ACE's are more forgiving. Michele's scores speak for themselves. Also, the Italians shoot a lot at a single 40cm, so the skinny arrows are less likely to be in the way.

My own observations are that the X7's may net you a point here or there due to line cutting. However, the heavier overall arrow takes longer to get out of the bow due to much slower speeds, so if your release/followthrough isn't great on a particular shot, I feel you may have more opportunity to negatively influence the arrow. Flipside, the slower arrows really make you follow through on your shot. I found that shooting the "logs" makes me really focus until the arrow hits. Translates well to outdoor and faster ACE's.

Other factors to consider are that X7's are very straight, straighter even than the ACE/X10's as per the Easton catalogue. I have no idea whether the differences are significant enough to matter to the average archer. Maybe the big vanes, high FOC and straightness make for a more accurate arrow.

I think that if you can afford to shoot ACE's indoors, do it. One shot feel at all the distances, and no retuning your setup or having to use 2 setups.

But, if you're on a budget, shoot the X7's. They are a proven arrow, and they'll shoot as well you do.

bsu_beginner
September 9th, 2006, 04:00 PM
I shoot 2214 w/ 100 grain inserts at 47#. Seems to run me just fine.

gilliland87
September 10th, 2006, 02:22 AM
I'm not sure how the recurvers like to play it but personally for indoors i shoot 2613's in the x7 shafts, they are uncut and weigh in at 550 grains (mostly tip weight) but its nice when you hit the ten and u pretty much can count on the x to be there too, and they have saved me alot of 9's as well. and indoors at 18 m they fly the same way everytime. they don't really paper tune but they fly well to the x.

Dale Weiss
September 10th, 2006, 04:59 AM
I shoot the Hoyt Gold Medalist at 36# for indoor and shoot the 1914's. They fly straight and true and they work with my other two sets of limbs which are 38 and 42#. I also have 90 gr. tips on them.

calbowdude
September 10th, 2006, 01:56 PM
FITA regs require a max arrow size of 2315.

Radman
September 10th, 2006, 07:08 PM
I'm not sure how the recurvers like to play it but personally for indoors i shoot 2613's in the x7 shafts, they are uncut and weigh in at 550 grains (mostly tip weight) but its nice when you hit the ten and u pretty much can count on the x to be there too, and they have saved me alot of 9's as well. and indoors at 18 m they fly the same way everytime. they don't really paper tune but they fly well to the x.
Not picking a fight, but this is the FITA/NAA forum. FITA has a maximum diameter for the shaft of an arrow set at 9.3mm. The following shafts are over that size limit and ILLEGAL!!!! 2317, 24xx anything, 25xx anything, or 26xx anything. If you show up at a tournament that is using the FITA/NAA rules that equipment is illegal. The judge will not allow you to shoot with them. If you are using the Fatboy carbon shafts, it will be a good idea to check them for maximum diameter also.

JovenPadaguan
September 11th, 2006, 01:48 PM
Not picking a fight, but this is the FITA/NAA forum.

You are right :thumbs_up

Finally, I think my friend will choose 1914 X7's.