what to buy? recurve newbie

[futureolympian]

I want to become a target archer, goal of national team and hopefully olympics. I shot fiberglass bows in HS 25 years ago. Now I finally have some money to pursue the sport. If you had $2000 to spend on a recurve riser and limbs, sights, stabilizers, bow strings, clickers, etc. what would the ideal competition set up be. 35-40# draw for my strength. where to buy? what to buy? how to size? hoyt, win and win, pse, etc? No one, and I mean no one here at my local archery shops seems to know as they all shoot compound. I have an 11 yr old and 9 yr old who also want to learn. Purchased a recurve Ragim for them. thanks so much

[88 PS190]

If no one locally knows about recurve bows who's going to teach you the skills needed to make your set up work for you?

The most expensive bow will not shoot any better for you than a far cheaper one if you don't learn it correctly and in small steps.

[massman]

Most replies would launch into riser and limb combinations. I'll take a different track.

Starting at the end... Arrows, Outdoors
ACE's 325.00/dz
Indoors or short Outdoors X7's 125.00/dz
String BCY 8125 or Flast flite 25.00
Tab 35.00
Arm Guard 10.00
Chest Protector 15.00
Bow stringer 10.00
Case 100.00
misc items 100.00
sub total 420.00 - 620.00

Budget was 2000.00 - 620.00 = 1380.00 bal available for limbs and riser

Sights run 60.00 to 300.00. If you're really interested in competing, buy the 300.00 Sureloc or similar as this will be the last sight you will buy for quite some time.

A beginner tournament 25" riser will cost you 170.00 - 340.00
This inclues the Win & Win Winstar and Winact, Hoyt Gold Medallist and Eclipse, Samic Agulla.

Beginning limbs range in price from 110.00 for the Win & Win Evolution II and the new Samick wood/glass limb to 150.00 for the Win & Win Challenger Craft limbs up to 300.00 for Epic limbs from Hoyt.

I'd suggest lower end intro tournament equipemnt like a Gold Medallist or a Win & Win Winstar II and a set of Challenger Craft wood/glass limbs. This would cost you app. 325.00. It is a decent set to get you started for a year or so. For limbs you will eventually buy a number of sets as you increase in poundage. Start at no more than 25-30# maximum.

Regards,

[Paradoxical Cat]

I tend to agree with Massman. $2000 can buy you a lot of set up. I think my Helix rig cost that. However, depending on your experience, dedication and goals, you may want to start lower down on the scale.

Some things you will want to keep in mind:

I would not buy anything that does not take ILF limbs. ILF limbs are the de facto standard for most risers and will allow you to move your limbs from one bow to the next.

Buy intermediate limbs to start. This means Challenger Kraft or Hoyt Epics or something like that. I don't know how you know your draw weight, but if you are shooting compound, the weight will be signifcantly lower. You should pick limbs where the weight is near your lower limit. Most limbs on most risers have 10% adjustment, so 32# limbs will adjust from 29# to 35#. The reason to buy intermediate limbs is that they will have better resale value when you outgrow them, and if they are not what you need, you aren't out $400.

Buy a good sight. I am particular about sights, and I won't use one that shifts, vibrates or otherwise messes with my shot. Shibuya makes some good ones, as does Sure-Loc. My advice is never go cheap on sights. I know several archers who curse their Cartel sights on a regular basis.

If you can try something, do it. Picking a bow is like trying on a suit. All the parts have to be fitted to you. Hold the riser. If you know someone who has a rig and will let you shoot it, do it. When you buy stabilizers, try them first. You will save on regretted purchases.

Also, read around this site and the Sagittarius bulletin board. There are good posts there. And ask questions.

My $0.02. Good luck.

PC-

[futureolympian]

thanks to those who have responded so far. Good info. I will look into some of that equipment.

in answer as to who will teach me. Books and video for the winter and next spring and summer my family and I will attend a few NAA camps. Always the naysayer out there, but thats okay. :thumbs_do Obstacles to overcome can be done. Half full half empty. I say half full.

If I can afford the best to start, why not. Keys to a pinto, keys to a mercedes, which would you take?:teeth:

[Paradoxical Cat]

If I can afford the best to start, why not. Keys to a pinto, keys to a mercedes, which would you take?:teeth:


I'd take the Pinto: it doubles as a concealed weapon. :wink:

The only problem with "buying the best" is that the "best" tends to be a little tempermental and requires experience to get set up properly. There are some high-end risers that are a real pain to shoot if you do not know what you are doing.

For instance, the Helix is a wonderful riser and a great bow to shoot. However, if you do not get the brace height and tiller right, it is a real pain. Also, it simply does not shoot well without proper stabilization.

Another example of a difficult riser was the Win&Win Infinite, which had an odd berger button/arrow rest geometry. Apparently, it shot very well, but you had to know what you were doing.

Just a warning there. The Maserati is a nice car, but an inexperienced driver may find that even keeping a straight line is difficult.

On the other hand, I started with a Helix because I, like you, had a lot of experience and a long lay-off. The pros who run the shop I go to, basically steered me to the Helix because 1) I was very serious about competing and 2) I was already shooting at a level where I would have gotten bored with a starter bow. Choose the bow that best fits your skills and goals, not the flashiest one. Although there is something to be said for shooting a well set-up top-of-the-line bow....

Now, how do I defuse a Pinto?

PC-

[bownut-tl.]

I think you would be much better off to just buy yourself a good stretch band and an inexpensive bow like a Bullseye or similar and find a coach. Spend the winter learning proper form and when your ready to move up, then buy the more expensive bow and accessories. Depending upon what books you buy and what videos you look at can be more of a problem than an asset. Unless you know how to determine what is good technique and what isn't, you may find yourself running down a dead end road. I'd hate to see you start off wrong and then have to re-learn. I'm not being negative or offering a half empty glass. I would much rather have the glass be half full of what I want instead of half full of something I will have to throw out later. Just take your time and think it through. I've seen too many people jump into this with both feet only to land on nails. I wish you and your family all the success in your journey and only want it to be fun at the same time.

Terry

[st8arrow]

Im curious, were are you located? There may be good local help available. Sometimes you just have to know where to look.

[futureolympian]

thanks again to all. I'm in Boise, ID. Lots of compound bow hunting in the mountains around here. I already checked with the NAA and there are no level 3 4 or 5 coaches here. Believe me, I would love to have access to a coach and lessons instead of jumping in without much more than online direction. If anyone knows of a competition recurve expert in this area, please do let me know. Thanks:star:

[NHSarcher]

Bownut. sent you a PM

[bownut-tl.]

Got it and replied.

Terry

[sullyhood]

Hi, I think i'd find out what bows the olympic medal winners shoot and see
if there is one or two that is predominate. You seem to have the motivation -
so good luck.