Newbie trad bow questions

[happyhunter2]

First some background on me. I started compound hunting 5 years ago, got my first archery deer Nov 2005, a 6 point at 12 feet. Close and fun!!! I have a 48 pound Browning with 26 inch draw.

I hurt my right arm and had to sit this year out. I have started shooting a 30 pound compound and I do pretty good with it. It may be a while until my arm can shoot the 48 pounder again. I notice when I shoot the 30 pounder my arm hurts when I use a release, so I have been shooting with my fingers. This led me to look into traditional archery.

I have been reading and learning off of this site. Thanks!!! I am looking for a 25 pound to start with. Later I will get a 35 pounder to hunt with (PA min is 35 pounds). I thought it might be neat if both bows were the same model as they would have the same feel. So I would like any bow I buy in 25 to be available in 35 pound. (Actually I will look for 30 and 40 pound bows since they are measured at 28 inches and I shoot 26.)

The local Gander sells Martin and Bear, so that is what I have looked at. The local archery shops don't have any traditional bows, kinda sad. I really like a wood bow. Just me, I like wood a lot and really don't want a metal riser. I want to keep the price to the low $300s. Been looking at Martin X200 and Rebel and had some questions:

1. I read the X200 needs to use a rest. Why is that? Do they need the kind of rest that holds the arrow higher than the shelf? I just think they detract from the simplicity of the bow and would prefer to not use one unless needed. I would prefer a piece of leather or fur type rest.
2. I read the X200 shoots slower than other bows. How much slower? Significantly? Such that I may not want to use it for hunting when I get a 35 pound?
3. I read the Rebel is unforgiving. Will my short 26 inch draw help me with a shroter bow like the Rebel?

On the Bear bows I am interested in the Grizzly and Montana long bow. I have some simple questions on them:
1. What is the lowest draw weight for these bows? (The catalog does not mention draw weights available, and the company site is being renovated for 2007.)
2. Would they be good starter bows if they are available at 25 or 30 pound?
3. Is the Montana long bow a good starter? Or should I stick with a recurve?

Thanks for the info!!

[A_Swede_17_1911]

I would look at some of the Quinn bows. Also I really like the hoyt gamemaster, but its is a 40# @ 28", I really like it. You can also look at some of the WIN & WIN bows, or KAP bows with there limbs and get higher poundage limbs later on.

[Viper1]

HH2 -

How about an unorthodox approach?

Get a FITA (target) bow.

Keep listening.

1. You can get a 23" riser and short limbs for a 64" bow, even with a short draw, it can be tuned to be quite efficient. (Even with a 25" riser (66" bow) you'll be fine at your draw length.)

2. You can get draw weights as light as #24 @ 28" and as heavy as #50.

3. While #35 will be adequate for deer, if I were going that light, I'd want a bow pushing the 90% efficiency mark.

4. With a little looking you might be able to due quite well $$$-wise on the used market.

5. The heavier FITA riser should have less shock that the other bows you mentioned, and that has to help in your recovery.

The rest is MHO, so take it FWIW. The X-200 and Griz are entry level bows, with the Griz usually winning in the performance and "shootability" catagories. Not sure about either going that low in weight, you'll have to check. The Montana isn't bad at all, and a good choice, IF you're looking for a longbow, and not sure about the weight thing there too.

Viper1 out.

[happyhunter2]

Viper1,
thanks for the info. I will look into the target bow. You mentioned 90% efficiency, where do you find that rating for the different bows?

[marianigp]

Recurves are generally, as a rule, faster than longbows, and in the price range your talking about, most always they will have less hand shock.
I believe the rule is 1lb per inch on draw weight, AMO standard is 28", if you draw 26 you'll loose 2 lbs of draw weight...depending on the bow could be more like 2-5 lbs.
Or is it 2lbs. per inch? (guys help me out here) I don't remember because I draw 28", convenient huh.

Good luck in your search, Martin makes a good bow, so does Chaparral....for the price, but they only make one recurve. Kota also has an inexpensive recurve ($475 also).

You might want to check them out.
http://www.chaparralarchery.com/index.html
http://www.kotabows.com/product_information.htm

[Viper1]

HH2 -

Regarding the efficiency, you won't find that figure anywhere, and not sure you want to calcute it out. To be techically correct, you'd need to get the area under a force draw curve for the bow, but in simplest terms,

Kinetic Energy / Draw weight at anchor = Efficiency.

For KE, you'll need arrow weight, a chronograph and the following formula:
KE = ½MV^2 (V^2 = V squared)

Lastly, you may need to check the draw weight at your draw length.

Suffice it to say, that most decent bows are in the 70 - 80% range, anything over 85% is very eficient, and 90% (or more) percent is screaming. The better FITA limbs will do that as will some customs (but not many).


marianigp -

The formula for dhanges in draw weight is: Draw Weight/20 = number of pounds a given bow will gain or lose per inch above or below the weight marked at 28". Again suffice it to say, #2/inch for a bow in the #40 range.

Viper1 out.

[ronroettger]

I think 45# is as low as you can get this bow.

[J. Wesbrock]

I would look at some of the Quinn bows.

Definately! Quinns are the best bang for the buck, so to speak, in the new trad bow market. You can get one for well under $300.00.

[Hoytfinger]

I believe 45# is also the lowest weight on an Grizzly.

Ditto for Martin Dreamcatcher (my dream wood bow).

You CAN find used vintage wood bows on ebay that go down to 25#.

I just got a sweet Pearson/Colt 25# bow for the wife for ~$50 and it is in great condition and shoots very well.

One onter thing, if you use a velvet/fur rest you need to shoot Feathers and not plastic vanes.