Spine recommendation

[WoolyWelsh]

Hello TrAT's - Need spine recommendations for XX75 GameGetter II.
Here's my kit:
Older recurve ~ 1970, peak weight at my draw length = 45 pounds.
Shooting three fingers, glove, mediterranean style.
Arrow shaft length = 31 ", B.O.P.
Total mass of broadhead = 200 grains. This includes the head itself, the bleeder blade, aluminium adapter and RPS insert.
Fletching = three 5" parabolic feathers
Nocks = Bohning T-Nocks

Arrows by Kelly recommends a 2016, but their chart makes no reference to spine versus broadhead weight. Any spine suggestions using this heavier broadhead? Thanks. Aim low! :thumbs_up

[Viper1]

wooly -

With aluminum arrows you don't need all that weight up front. You didn't mention the type of bow other than 70's recurve - there were a few back then, also, knowing your draw length might factor in. Gut reaction is that the 2016s aren't far off.

Viper1 out.

[tpoof]

I agree with Viper, you certainly don't need all that weight up front, it will cause you to need a stiffer shaft. The standard shaft for your draw weight is prolly a 1916 but because of your long draw you will need to step up a level,,the 2016's should be good to go. With all that weight you might even want to try 2018's.
I'd bareshaft to be sure, then you'll know.

[SlowBowInMO]

You're talking about a 175 grain screw in point essentially, not that uncommon. I agree with the others, with that point and your long draw, a 2016 is probably the ticket.

[WoolyWelsh]

wooly - With aluminum arrows you don't need all that weight up front. You didn't mention the type of bow other than 70's recurve - there were a few back then, also, knowing your draw length might factor in. Gut reaction is that the 2016s aren't far off. Viper1 out.

I agree with Viper, you certainly don't need all that weight up front, it will cause you to need a stiffer shaft. The standard shaft for your draw weight is prolly a 1916 but because of your long draw you will need to step up a level,,the 2016's should be good to go. With all that weight you might even want to try 2018's. I'd bareshaft to be sure, then you'll know.

Viper1 & Tpoof - The bow is a Shakespeare Necedah X26, 55", 40# @28". My draw length is 30 1/4", from nock groove to back of riser. The riser is cut approximately 1/8" less than centre. I'm shooting off the shelf with a rug & leather strike plate.

It's true - I do not need all this weight up front; however, I have some Magnus I - 150 grain heads I'd like to try out. So, the 1916, 2016, and 2018's seem like a good 'spread' to experiment with. Thanks for the feedback. Aim low! :thumbs_up

[Viper1]

Wooly -

With the Necadah, you might get a way with a 1916 and a normal sized head. With 200 grains, the 2016 seems more likely, but I'd bet either will tune.

Viper1 out.

[J. Wesbrock]

Viper1 & Tpoof - The bow is a Shakespeare Necedah X26, 55", 40# @28". My draw length is 30 1/4", from nock groove to back of riser. The riser is cut approximately 1/8" less than centre. I'm shooting off the shelf with a rug & leather strike plate.



First off...nice bow. Unfortunately, the Necedah has a wide, flat shelf. It was one of those "never really intended to be shot off the shelf" bows, which isn't to say it can't be done. But you'd do well to at least build up a pivot point on that shelf. Something used the rug about the diameter of a Bic pen should work just fine. You'll probably have a devil of a time tuning arrows off that shelf otherwise.

[WoolyWelsh]

First off...nice bow. Unfortunately, the Necedah has a wide, flat shelf. It was one of those "never really intended to be shot off the shelf" bows, which isn't to say it can't be done. But you'd do well to at least build up a pivot point on that shelf. Something used the rug about the diameter of a Bic pen should work just fine. You'll probably have a devil of a time tuning arrows off that shelf otherwise.

Well, now I'm reeeely buggered sideways...."never really intended to be shot off the shelf".....but-but-but that's all there is! No plunger button hole, no provisions for shooting an elevated rest.

Yes, I'm handy with a sharp wood rasp and I've a sense of flat and plumb. Please elaborate, for I am dumb from your words. Take no umbrage; this archery business has a bit of witchery to it. There, by the trout-gods, I've ended a sentence with a preposition! Pardon, I'm a wee bit drunk t'night. Needs to be done now and then. Yes, it does. For a steady anchor at least. Oh pipe down, Wooly! :darkbeer:

[SlowBowInMO]

Okay, when you're able stick a Bear Weatherest on it. Cheap, durable and great flight too.:thumbs_up

I'd go down another arrow size with a Bear rest, to a 1916 and leave them long to start.

[J. Wesbrock]

Okay, when you're able stick a Bear Weatherest on it. Cheap, durable and great flight too.:thumbs_up

I'd go down another arrow size with a Bear rest, to a 1916 and leave them long to start.

That'll get it done too! :thumbs_up

[tpoof]

Be carefull on using too much aiming juice! too much is counter productive. lol

You can always biuld up the shelf some with leather, If you want to shoot off the shelf there is always a way to do just that!

[WoolyWelsh]

Be carefull on using too much aiming juice! too much is counter productive. lol You can always build up the shelf some with leather, If you want to shoot off the shelf there is always a way to do just that!

Yes, with the aiming juice, one has to quit when they're through! I've some good options now - try the Bear Weather Rest, or build up the shelf above the grip's pivot point and use the little gap trick between the shelf and riser plate for fletch clearance. Seems like a plan. Thanks everyone! :thumbs_up

[Viper1]

Wooley -

Spend the $3 on the Weather rest. Easier and better results. BTW, I've never quite understood the gap for the hen feather ... if the rig is tuned correctly, the tail of the arrow is nowhere near the riser as it passes.

BTW - most bows of the era the Nacedah came from, came with rugs on the shelves and leather or hair strike plates. The first thing we ALL did was lose the strike plate and stick on a rest. My how things have changed.

Viper1 out.

[WoolyWelsh]

Wooley - Spend the $3 on the Weather rest. Easier and better results. BTW, I've never quite understood the gap for the hen feather ... if the rig is tuned correctly, the tail of the arrow is nowhere near the riser as it passes. BTW - most bows of the era the Nacedah came from, came with rugs on the shelves and leather or hair strike plates. The first thing we ALL did was lose the strike plate and stick on a rest. My how things have changed. Viper1 out.

Viper1 - This bow has the original "rug & leather" rest. Yes, things have changed...never had the Internet & AT for a broad source of good information.

"... if the rig is tuned correctly, the tail of the arrow is nowhere near the riser as it passes." Can this be true even if you're shooting off the shelf? I think I've been over-spined for years & didn't know it. Ragged hen feather at four o'clock position...

I'll try the Bear Weather Rest and see how it affects my aiming. If the arrow sits too far above my hand, I lose the ability to shoot "instinctively", whatever that means these days.

With the good spine recommendations & the repeated hints of a simple elevated rest and some hard work and patience, I'll git 'er done.

[Viper1]

Wooly -

"... if the rig is tuned correctly, the tail of the arrow is nowhere near the riser as it passes." Can this be true even if you're shooting off the shelf? I think I've been over-spined for years & didn't know it. Ragged hen feather at four o'clock position...

That's my point. If you're over-spined, then the rig isn't tuned correctly. Follow this reasoning: While you can get an over-spined arrow to fly somewhat correctly from a given bow, it means that you're reducing the degree of paradox (flexing the arrow experiences as it leaves the bow), and so the tail (feathers) will strike the riser. That in itself may make accurate tuning impossible. The idea is to get the right arrow spine so that the amount of paradox is sufficient for fletch clearance - and yes, that's usually more difficult with a wide/flat shelf than with a rest.

If the arrow sits too far above my hand, I lose the ability to shoot "instinctively",

This is just BS, pure and simple. It goes right a long with "you can't cant a bow when using a rest..." :rolleyes:

Lastly ...

Yes, things have changed...never had the Internet & AT for a broad source of good information.

Yup, that's true. In the old days we had to rely on archery clubs and ranges to learn how to shoot. We learned from guys who've been there and done that - in person. And there was never any doubt about who knew how to shoot and who the best coaches/instructors were. Interestingly, none of the current "trad" myths existed back then. Why, you ask? Because, they didn't work. In a club or league setting, you were expected to shoot well and improve and there was always someone watching, whether you liked it or not. Remember, this was before compounds became popular, so there really was nowhere to hide ;).

Viper1 out.