Tiller tuning for 3-under.

[fusiontrix]

How does one "tiller" a bow to shoot 3 under? Now, I'm shooting a Hoyt Matrix for a recurve so the tiller on the bow is adjustable. How much of a difference will adjusting the tiller make? What should the tiller measure on the bottom vs. the top? Thanks guys for the help and information.

[deadeye]

When I set up my target bows I go to even tiller to start. And work from there. When getting your tiller just right you bow will set dead in the hand.

[Viper1]

fusion -

The "theory" is for 3under, the lower limb should be slightly stiffer than the upper limb as opposed to split finger. The reality is that it's pretty bogus. Tiller (within reason, or course) has no affect on accuracy of a given bow and can be adjusted for by nocking point position. Those two factors have to be set to work together. Some sight shooters claim that the bow may feel like it's pulling up or down during the draw, and that can be compensated for by adjusting the tiller. I've never found that to be an issue. My FITA bows are all adjusted to slightly lower limb positive (usually 1/8" +/-) and seem to work pretty well.

It's just something I don't think you have to woory about, unless it's really off and "feels" that way.

Viper1 out.

[fusiontrix]

Thanks guys that helps me alot. I have my bow set on even tiller for split finger and am thinking about making a permanent switch to 3 under for the simple fact that I am having hell trying to find a consistent anchor point and sight picture at full draw. I'm always hunting for one more thing to help me with my split finger shooting but I have yet to find out what they "one thing" is. I can't see correctly with any part of my face touching the string, I can't get the feather to touch my nose, etc. So Now I'm looking to 3 under as maybe the answer to what I'm looking for.

[Viper1]

fusion -

I understand what you're trying to do, just don't over think it. Pick a reproducible anchor and keep it (bone against bone if possible), the rest of the stuff will fall into place by itself.

Viper1 out.

[fusiontrix]

The problem is the string in my sight picture, I've only gotten 2 consistent anchor points and can seem to keep them no matter where my face is in relation to the string. This year I'm trying to address all the problems I've had in the past and find something to push me past that plateau that has me stuck in the middle of the traditional pack.

[Viper1]

fusion -

May not be what you're looking for, but here goes:

For beginning and intermediate shooters, up to a NFAA 250 avg, I suggest (read - force them to) ignore the string. It just increases the workload at anchor, and that doesn't help at that level.

For advanced shooters, usually avg over 260, the string becomes part of the sight picture and is aligned with part of the riser, limb, etc. Yes, at that point, there may need to be an anchor change - hard to tell what's going on over the net!

Personally, being cross-eye dominant, I have no idea where the string at anchor is and it doesn't seem to bother me a whole lot ;).

Viper1 out.

[AKRuss]

I like to keep the blur of the string off to the right of my sights. That way I have a consistent anchor and can see the sights without difficulty. I believe I read this technique in "The Simple Art of Winning."

I like to shoot 3 under at fairly close ranges and switch to split fingers when shooting out to about 40 yards or so or longer. The latter NOT being hunting shots.

[DwayneR]

The problem is the string in my sight picture, I've only gotten 2 consistent anchor points and can seem to keep them no matter where my face is in relation to the string.

Whoa!!! Keep that string there! That string is a WONDERFUL point of reference. It can be easily used to know that your Anchor, sight window, and string is in the EXACT place.

Even when you have a solid anchor point, the slightest "tilt" of the eye/head can show a big difference when you use that string as an positioner.

There are two schools of thought here...

#1:
Try this. Close your eyes...Set up an Anchor point with your anchor AND your head in a very confortable position. (not crooked over or anything like that). Open your eyes and see where that string is positioned. That is where that string should be every time..

#2:

That string should be in line with the bow. Thus, you have string centered with the limbs, right down to the rest. Thus when you do this, only your arrow will be slightly out of linement.

I have shot both ways. I have found I am more comfortable with #1, but shoot equally well with both. (But I have to aim a little off to the side for #2.

For me, the string is on the outside of the bow, just touching the Low Profile Rest knob. (I doubt if there are but one or two archers here that know what a LP rest looks like <g>. Viper does. But they stopped making them quite a few years ago).

Keep trying!

Dwayne

[AKRuss]

Reading Dwayne's response made me realize that I didn't state my preference very clearly. I like to keep the string blur to the right of my sights, assuming I'm using any, but still well within my vision. I agree, the string is a good left/right reference but I don't like to look through it.