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12-Ringer
June 10th, 2008, 07:02 PM
Ive been asked by several how exactly I converted my D-40s into a pipe-through design. The process is not difficult it will involve very minor soldering, some drilling, cutting, gluing, and touch up painting to preference. I did this to my six D40s while I waiting for my first Homebrew supplies to arrive in January.

Supplies
Small Phillips head screw driver
7/8 and 3/8 Forstner bits
Drill
Standard conduit
Soldering iron and solder
Automotive goop
Two small pieces of rubber (I use a cut bike tube)
Liquid nail
Non-glare paint

Lets start with getting the cam opened up. Take the cam out of the housing and remove the batteries. There are 7 screws on the back of the cam and 3 on the side that need to be removed in order to open the cam.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00007bcopy.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00008c.jpg

Once the cam is opened there are a few things to pay attention too.
First - there will be a red wire connected to the main board and to the laser aim device on the front of the cam. This will have to be removed or at least disconnected at one end in order to complete the mod. When youre done you can solder it back if you want, I dont.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00009bcopy.jpg

Second- the buttons on the front of the cam will likely fall out so be careful.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00009c.jpg

There are seven screws that need to be removed in order to get behind the board.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00010bcopy.jpg
These screws are all the same size, but they are different than the ones that close the unit.

Once the seven screws have been removed from the board and the display, you will have to disconnect the power source. Be very careful not to damage the ribbon that connects the board to the display. I use my soldering iron, to melt the solder and pull the wires away with a pair of forceps.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00011bcopy.jpg

When the screws have been removed and the power source has been disconnected you can simply lift the board and display out and flip it over the top of the camera. Take care not to damage the flash or other connections (if one pops off you could always solder it back, but I do my best to take care not to damage anything).
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00014.jpg
Once the board and display are out of the way, you can mark and drill your holes using the 7/8 Forstner bit. The holes should be drilled in the space directly above the battery compartment; you can see the pipe in both the pic above and below.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00013-1.jpg
You will notice in this mod I used stainless steel conduit, I would recommend PVC, it is easier to cut and shave down if it is a little long. It is important to keep the pipe as flush as possible with the cams exterior as it must fit back into the cam housing.

Once the holes have been drilled, cut the conduit to fit. When you cut the conduit it should slide rather easily through the two holes. Be sure that is as close to flush as possible, you can shave a little when using PVC, thats why I prefer it. When the pipe is at the correct length, I coat about of each end with automotive or plumbers goop and then slide it through the holes. Once the pipe is in position, I add additional goop to the interior and exterior of the cam creating a water-tight seal. Let this dry overnight or for 12 hours.

Once the pipe goop is dried, you will put the cam back together taking care to solder the power supply, and replace all seven internal screws. Pay special attention to the small side panel, it will have likely fallen out and needs to be in place before you start tightening everything up.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00017.jpg

Once the board and sensor have been reconnected to the cam its time to put the whole cam back together. The trick here is to put all of the buttons back in place and put the front of the cam, face down. Put the back of the cam ON to the front. It should go together rather easily and then attach the 7 screws that hold the unit together.

Once the unit is together it is time to prepare the cam housing. Put the cam in the cam housing. Everything should fit just as it did before you took it apart. It may be a little snug; if so, the pipe is likely too long and needs trimming (hopefully that wont happen, because thats a pain). Take your 3/8 Forstner bit and drill a hole that lines up with the interior pipe. Do this on both sides.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00004bcopy.jpg

I have taken this extra step to help keep water out of the housing.
Once the holes in the cam housing have been made I take a small piece of rubber (bike tube that I have cut) and use the goop to completely cover the hole in the housing.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00015-1.jpg
Once the holes have been covered with the rubber, I take a little extra goop and ensure it is completely sealed. Let this dry overnight or for 12 hours.

Once the cam house rubber has dried, I cover it in liquid nail. I use the liquid nail to also cover the entire cam in an effort to better camouflage the unit. In the pic below you can see the ridges of the rubber.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00016b.jpg
Once the liquid nail has dried I take a nail or a pair of scissors and poke hole from the inside to the outside of the rubber. The cable slides right through with no problem.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00003bcopy.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00002bcopy.jpg
Finished unit with a little better camo than what it came with. and a much better means of attaching and securing the unit.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg258/12-Ringer/DSC00001.jpg


Hope this helps it is just a little tinkering that helps a ton. The D-40 quickly gets attached and is certainly a little more secure. Just remember the Python will only keep an honest man at bay. I think it does deter the opportunistic thief, you know the ones who go strolling around see a cam attached with a bungee cord and say who would ever know???? Not too many carry bolt cutters.

yoda4x4
June 10th, 2008, 08:10 PM
Great tutorial Joseph. I think this may become a real handy thing for those with D-40s.

David

flats1
June 10th, 2008, 10:00 PM
Thank you for the help. Now its time to go get the supplys. Thanks again

Ridge Buster
June 11th, 2008, 02:12 PM
Would this also work on the I40 camera?

flats1
June 12th, 2008, 04:30 PM
Do you know if this would void the Moultrie warrenty?

12-Ringer
June 13th, 2008, 07:29 AM
Yes, this voids the warranty.

12-Ringer
June 13th, 2008, 07:13 PM
Would this also work on the I40 camera?


I have not had the occaission to personally do one, but I've been told the tutorial worked fine for the M-40 and I-40.

bartman3562
June 29th, 2009, 09:12 AM
From one tinker to another, have you ever drilled the hole big enough, and just run the pipe through from side to side, and seal it from the outside? That would stop the problem of it being to long or short.

muzzy125acc
July 18th, 2009, 04:29 PM
This works for the old moultries also.....

12-Ringer
August 10th, 2009, 01:27 AM
From one tinker to another, have you ever drilled the hole big enough, and just run the pipe through from side to side, and seal it from the outside? That would stop the problem of it being to long or short.

I was trying to keep the outside casing as in-tact as possible for H20 issues, as well as, a pipe running all the way through would limit access to the batts.

Swagg
August 10th, 2009, 04:43 PM
ok has anyone tried this with the d40 lately??? I just got some at Bass Pro this past weekend and went to add the pipe and seems like they put junk in our way. Someone open one up and see what they think????

jstady2002
August 20th, 2009, 11:36 PM
would you consider doing this to my camera? I have no electronics skill and afraid to tear it apart and not get it back together.