PDA

View Full Version : flemish string lenth


Petra
July 28th, 2002, 05:10 PM
Hello i got a BenPearson cougar recurve 64" long and 45# at 28".
I need a new flemish string but i dont know what lenth to order. The other question is my arrow wobbles when i release and it hurts my shot. Im shooting aluninum arrows now but i would like some wood would they help? :confused:

Arthur P
July 28th, 2002, 11:30 PM
If the bow's markings say AMO 64", then get a 64" AMO string. If the bow actually measures 64" and doesn't have the AMO mark (a lot of those old Pearsons, and Bears too, were made before AMO standards) then the general rule of thumb is to use a string 4-5" shorter than actual bow length.

Best thing to do, if you have an archery pro shop in your area, is to take the bow to the shop with you and try several different length strings to get the right one.

Wooden arrows definitely connect to the old days, but they do present some problems. Mostly straightness, consistent arrow weight and, if they are'nt sealed properly, warpage and variances in weight due to humidity.

I'd not recommend wood arrows without knowing your experience level. If you're a beginner, then stick with aluminum for awhile, until you've got your form and accuracy working well. If you've been around the block a few times and just feel like doing something different, then wood arrows are fun to play with.

Broken cedar arrows smell WONDERFUL! Wish I could get that aroma in a cologne. :D

bowdonkey
August 16th, 2002, 12:40 PM
We have sold and made wood arrows for a long time now and I think the comment about accuracy with wood being low is wrong. I have learned that the only reason woods don't shoot true is because the first few steps in the process of making the arrows are overlooked and that is taking the time to streighten them. If your arrows are no flying right then please take the time to read the following articial at www.traditionalbowhunter.com under stories and then tuning.

Hope this will help. Most likely your arrows are too heavy for that bow.

Clint
TBA

LKT1710
August 16th, 2002, 10:47 PM
I gotta go against your advice on the string length Aurthur. Many of the flemish string manufacturers want to know the actual string length, not the AMO length. Petra...you need to find what the maker wants, AMO or actual. If they want the actual... measure your existing string from loop to loop. If its AMO then you'll need the AMO length. Like Arthur said let a proshop help you in determining this.
A lot of things can cause your arrows to wobble in flight. Incorrect arrow spine, string nock point, arrow nock too tight, brace height, your shooting form, bent/warped arrows. The first thing I would do is check the bows brace height and put the bow on a scale to determine the draw weight @ your draw length, then check to see if the arrows are of the correct spine. Second, spin your arrows to see that they are not warped and the nocks are inline with the points. Adjust the nocks tension so that the arrow just barely hangs onto the string. Third would be shoot it to determine what kind of wobble there is. A colleige my need to watch you shoot.
Side to side wobble (fishtailing) can be from improper arrow spine, poor form/ follow through or fletching interferences. (do not shoot plastic vanes unless your using a launcher that is tuned for them.)
Porpoising (up and down wobble) is usually from a nock point that's too high or too low.
On your form...be sure to come to full anchor before releasing. I like to put my index finger in the corner of my mouth, middle finger under my chin and my thumbs first knuckle under my ear lobe. I do not release until my hand is pressed against my face at these three points. My bow hand does not drop until the arrow has reached the target. Like being frozen in time for the duration of the arrows flight.
There's nothing more gratifying than tuning and learning to shoot a new bow....after that it, it all becomes habit. Good Luck,LT