: Choise for Elk
July 29th, 2002, 01:12 PM
I have been hunting for over 40 years and with a bow for over 10. I have had no problem harvesting deer with a 50 lb bow and cut on contact broadheads. I have been shooting 3-D every weekend and shoot some indoor in the winter. I have a number of bows and a chrony and "the archery program ". My bows are late model and fairly well tuned.
Now to my question. I have been drawn for an elk tag. My age etc. limits my draw weight to 55 pounds. I have been setting up several arrows to take for elk. At one end of the scale is a CE 200 with a 90 grain CE first cut travelling at 240 f/s on my chrony. At the other is a 2213 with the same head travelling at 213 f/s. The archery program show much the same results and gives each a KE rating of 45 fp. This seems a little shy for elk and ask your opinion on which would be better. Where I have been drawn is bush country so shots should be at 30 yards or less and my tag is for " any elk" .
Any comments on the subject would be appreciated.
July 31st, 2002, 12:16 AM
Not sure what to tell you, but with the cut on contact & the carbon arrow you "should" get better penetration. The belief is that the carbon shaft will flex less when it strikes the elk and therefore maintain it's energy better than the aluminum shaft. Personally, I think the carbon shaft & cut on contact point is a good choice depending on the choice of broadhead (I like the 110 gr. Bear Superlites myself)
July 31st, 2002, 01:14 AM
lionel i agree with russ. change over to carbon. and the other thing to do is find a broadhead your confident with and go from there. changing to carbon will increase your overall speed and kintetic energy. whatever broadhead you use for deer will work for elk. i don't think you will have a problem with the firstcut 90 i use them when i am not allowed to shoot rocket steelheads. but you might go with the new stealth head from rocket if you can get it. i have had great reports on them and it can't be all bad if a world class hippo was a pass thru at 20 yards with a 70 lb draw weight. when you get back i hope to see pics of your trophy. good luck and good hunting
July 31st, 2002, 10:51 PM
Well Lionel the best thing to do would be to give me your elk tag.them you wouldnt have to worry about all this stuff.But If you dont want to do that go with your setup It sounds fine to me.I dont care what your shooting If you dont hit them right your in trouble.you could shoot them with a bent stick and kill them If you hit the sweet spot.A good sharp broad head in the lungs our heart and its over....good luck
August 2nd, 2002, 12:32 PM
Don't be afraid of either setup, I've had complete pass throughs with round wheels at 60lbs using yesteryear's slow bows. Today's efficient bows at 55 lbs will certainly do the job if the arrow is well placed. That is why I would suggest using the setup that is most forgiving. I have taken alot of elk over the years and only twice when I was younger did I shoot a bow over 60lbs. Never did I find that I was under bowed. I use aluminum simply because of the greater mass weight reduces the affect that outside influences have on the arrow's path of flight, or in other words, forgiveness. Aluminum also quiets down the whole setup and is easier to tune with broadheads. Good choice on the cut on contact broadheads, I think you'll do fine if you get that shot.
August 4th, 2002, 11:54 AM
Personally I favor a heavier arrow than most carbons. Something that will allow 125 grain heads to fly well and weigh at least 450 grains. Speed isn't a problem as most shots are fairly close. JMHO
August 4th, 2002, 07:36 PM
All things being equal I would go for the speed it will help with yardageand you will get a little better penitration with the smaller shaft. The only other thing I would sugjest is get a more radical bow if you dont want to up your poundage then you can always buy a faster bow.
August 6th, 2002, 08:43 PM
Have you checked out the "Enhancer" from Highland sports? It's found in the cabelas catalog.
A bunch of guys did a test on it and I had the opportunity to speak with the owner who admitted that it didn't do a whole lot for the high speed bows but it did help out those who may not be able to draw 65-80 lbs. The tests proved the same, with increases in penetration as much as 3" in foam targets. There's no way to tell what that equaits to on an animal, but it does increase penetration.
August 7th, 2002, 01:46 PM
That's an interesting concept,. I would think it may help when arrow strikes bone but would have no effect on a soft tissue hit. Mind you, I don't think you need that extra little ooomph when your arrow hits soft tissue anyway.
August 7th, 2002, 04:25 PM
i would have to think that that "enhancer" would throw the FOC off a bit.
August 7th, 2002, 05:54 PM
Good point Oregon Shooter, but is FOC really a factor @ hunting distances?
August 7th, 2002, 06:40 PM
It does throw it off a bit but as was said earlier, not enough to make a difference. Like I said, it doesn't have a lot of effect on high speed bows but for the KE that Lionel is talking about, it would help out a lot.
To a low speed bow, soft tissue is a lot harder to get through than it is for the 300fps bows.
Another thing to think about, for a high speed bow, if you happen to glance off a bone, it doesn't matter much as the arrow has enough juice to get through it. But, that may not be true for lower speed bows. If you hit solid bone though, unless that's a 30 caliber arrow, it aint gettin' though no matter what you shoot.:D :D
August 16th, 2002, 11:49 AM
if you use a good head like a phantom or steel force you should be ok as long as you don't shoot past 30 or so yards. the main thing is to put the arrow where it needs to go. Dwight Schue from Bowhunter uses a 50lb bow for elk all the time.