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Initial Rest Vertical Position

474 views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  Dave V 
#1 ·
I'm curious how you guys set-up your rest on the riser relative to the mounting hole? I've heard that the shaft should be centered thru the hole. It just seems this becomes a 'relative' issue, where you could adjust the nocking point as easily as change the rest elevation. And then you hear about those rests that are 'micro' adjustable. What am I missing? My rest mounting hole is not at the center of the riser, so I'm not even going to get into the leaverage physics of tiller tuning, would just like to know where to set the rest/arrow center and go.
 
#2 ·
Here goes; the center of the diameter of the arrow should be no lower than the center of the berger hole. More than anything, you don't want the fletching hitting the shelf. For height, accepted is not having the bottom of the diameter of the arrow above the center of the berger hole. This is not to say a arrow will not fly well if above the hole.

Some guys in here can tune a bow to shoot a shovel.
 
#3 ·
The rest mount hole is not the center on any bow. If it was you'd hit your head with the top limb too often.:)
For me as long as the arrow is in the neighborhood of the rest mount hole AND is tuning out good, I don't worry too much about it's actual height.
There is some differences in how the bows feels relative to that height though. If you want a bow that feels nose light at full draw, set it up high in relation to the hole, of it feels too light, set it below the hole. Just a little balancing out of the cam(s) will get you there.
 
#4 ·
If you want a bow that feels nose light at full draw, set it up high in relation to the hole, of it feels too light, set it below the hole. Just a little balancing out of the cam(s) will get you there.
Red, can you elaborate a bit on the 'balancing out on the cams' part? My mojo hybrid feels a little nose heavy at full draw. A quarter turn in on the upper limb bolt seems to help it. Could I also help it by raising my rest and nocking point a bit? Then where does the balancing out of the cams come in?
 
#5 ·
I think you just explained quite nicely the concept of "balancing out" the cams.

It wouldn't surprise me at all that you will need to reposition your nocking point after this adjustment. In fact, Id' expect it. Essentially you "balance" the cams for overall feel of the bow in your hands, and adjust nocking point for proper arrow flight while leaving the arrow shaft centered in the Berger hole. The micro adjustments on the rest serve to facilitate this Berger alignment. I wouldn't go much more than a quarter of a shaft diameter off of center especially if you're using a plunger button. You still want the button to ride on the outermost part of the arrow shaft with no fear of the arrow hopping off the button and getting kicked up or down as it's launched.

On GRIV's DVD's he calls the cam balancing adjustment technique "Creep Tuning" which helps balance out vertical misses due to minor limb issues. I think this is also the one he refers to when he talks about steadying the sight picture. A quarter turn of one or the other limb bolts can be all it takes to steady an otherwise unstable bow.
 
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