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Un-tuneable trykon xl.

756 views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  Brown Hornet 
#1 ·
I have tuned alot of hoyts but this one is killing me. A friend bought a
2006 trykon xl. RH 29 in. draw,60 #.goldtip 5575, 100 grain point.Trophytaker drop away, copperhead release.
Cams in time, no cam lean or fletch contact.
After paper tuning the rest is as far left as possible and still no bullet hole. I switched to 100 grain tips and it helped a little.
It shoots great groups with fieldtip but is a mess with muzzys.
Are trykons just this way?
 
#2 ·
NO! Even if the cams are in time....check the tiller first of all. Secondly see where the cables are in reference to the tuning holes on the cam...The cam doesnt like to be under or over rotated.

After this check your nocking point height.I find that with a blade I can shoot them square or 1/16" high. With drop aways I start 1/8" above square.

The problem with the tear alot of times is the grip. I cna't shoot the grip on the hunting bows worth a crap on a trykon. However mine is target colored and came with side plates and shoots through paper with no trouble.
 
#4 ·
Have you tried a more limber arrow? I'm assuming that moving the rest to the left is an effort to counter a tear right. I shoot a 28.5", 70# Trykon XL and I use 5575's w/ 125 gr. tips, rest is centered. In most scenarios, if the bow is in tune, tear right is a sign of an overspined arrow. I've found mine tends to like a bit more limber arrow than would be expected.

If you've tried various arrow spines and you always get the same tear than I would venture that it is bow hand torque.
 
#6 ·
whos shooting it and is there possible bow torque thats altering the shot and showing a bad tear??
 
#7 ·
I have both a target and a hunting Trykon. Was having issues getting bullet holes thru paper with the gold one and my dealer set it up so the bottom of the arrow was centered on the berger hole. I never understoond why, but it solved the issue. Might be something to try. Mine was shooting good before, but I wanted clean arrow flight. They both shoot perfect holes now. I like them so much, I'm not even thinking of a new bow.
Shane
 
#8 ·
I have messed with this bow for weeks. I have watched his shot and see no torque. I switched to 100s from 125s to increase spine without buying new arrows and it helped a bit. Cams are in time and in tuning marks. Riser is straight. Tiller is even,ATA and brace are right on spec. Have tried muzzy 4 blades and montecs in 100 and 125. It shoots a 4 inch group at 60 yards with fieldtips but a 10 inch at 40 yards with broadheads. I'm stumped.
 
#10 ·
was the BH shots using 100g or 125g? it really sounds like a spine issue since the FPs are shooting pretty dam good if hes 4" @60 yards, then so bad with BHs on the tip.
 
#9 ·
Ok...heres a thought. Have you tried as mentioned setting up high in the hole? The trykons tend to shoot nock high and starting higher in the hole may get it shooting.

Other thing is i replaced the cam spacers after a year of shooting. They showed a little to much side to side play. So when i switched 80% cams to 65% cams i replaced the spacers.
 
#11 ·
I had a trykon xl with 60 pound limbs. It took me a couple of days playing with it to get it to tune like I wanted it to. With the 60 pound limbs, you will get a lot of string deflection. You will need to install a string supressor to stop the strings over deflection. You will need to disable the floating yoke by tieing it together at the v. This will allow you to straighten up the top cam and get the lean out of it. You must get the lean out for it to tune. The timing can be deceptive. The top cam may look good when timing but you will need to time it a little deeper. The top cable track has a slight radius to it and may look timed but you may need to give the top an extra twist. Hoyt designed the cam with a fair amount of downward nock travel and this makes it harder to tune with drop aways. You will need to set the rest and nocking point so that the arrow is pointed down more than normal.
Install a supressor, disable the floating yoke and straighten up the top cam, time the top cam a little deeper, set the arrow nock high. When paper tuning, you may want to set the rest just a little down hill and keep lowering the rest until the hole looks good. Good luck
 
#12 ·
it sounds like everyone is giving advice for a nock high/low tear, I think the OP is getting a nock left tear seing he's got his rest maxed out to the left.
 
#13 ·
On mine, it actually tuned out best when I had the top cam a little bit late rotation. I also served up the floating yoke to static-ify it. Recheck your lean.
 
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