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My paper tune - questions inside

783 views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  fletched 
#1 ·
So I finally got my paper tuner made and my backstop, now comes the hard part: getting a bullet hole. my knock is constantly above the entry point and overall, the horizontal centering is pretty good but I cant seem to get my knock down. Any suggestions? pics below.




I have tried adjusting the spring and elevation and if I go to extremes high and extremes low, I dont see much of a difference.

I'm shooting a Mathews Switchback XT and 200 carbon express.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Thanks Candy, I will look into that. Currently, I believe I'm shooting 100 grain tips.

The rest I'm using is called MPSI. A old neighbor made it for me about 10 years ago. I'm not a big believer of "state of the art" rests. It's a bridge rest that has elevation, horizontal and spring stiffness adjustments. Now, if the spring is worn out, maybe that's an issue, but I was shooting bullet holes with my old 300s.

EDIT: One question I meant to ask: some of the shots you see above have the knock going right but mainly the knock is directly above the entry point. Could this be because I'm changing my grip? I really dont think I need to change horizontal much, rather, I need to hold the bow the same time every time. For the most part, I'm pretty consistent.
 
#5 ·
Just thinking out loud here (since I cant do anything while I'm at work). If I put a heavier grain tip, wont that cause the front of the arrow to drop even more? I was thinking I need to move my anchor down the arrow some. Just thinking outloud. any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
#6 ·
Not knowing your draw weight or length, I'd say you aren't over spined with the CX 200s. I shot them at 62 pounds and with a 29" draw and 90 gr tips - cut shaft length of 25 3/4" (still have them laying around). And if a old homemade rest, it's about time you looked into something more up to date, say a QT 3000 or any of the good drop rests.
 
#7 ·
my draw weight is 55-60#s (currently at 54, plan to bump it up to 57). Draw length is 28" so I fall in the range for CX200s. My rest worked just fine for CX300s so I dont understand how the rest could be faulty. The guy who built my rest has the patent on all bridge rests. He took a lot of big companies to court 10-15 years ago for copyright infringement. I saw the actual patent on the rest style and the CAD CAM machine he used to make it. Very good work, so not a "homemade" rest necessarily. Just not a rest I bought at a store, in other words. Old, however. haha

Also, the tip of the arrow is about an 1" from the end of the rest, if that. I dont have much room left to cut arrows down.

the tears aren't extremely bad so it might be alright for this weekend (I will try another rest btw).
 
#8 ·
I would first try a different rest. Then I would look at the cam position and see if it is in the proper orientation. After that, try a few different arrows and see if that makes a difference. If the cam isn't in it's correct orientation, it can make the bow unresponsive. Tune the bow first, then tune the arrow.
 
#9 ·
I'm picking up a whisker biscuit and a QT3000. I wonder if it's because I'm not using a d-loop. I shot bullet holes with CX300s and a d-loop but just last night I was going back to 300s and I'm getting similiar tears to that of CX200s. I really need to get back into a d-loop, I believe. I need a different cam, however. The hoyt raptor shot bullet holes all day with a QT 3000 and a d-loop. since i have a diagonal tear, there are probably more than one issue.

Anyone have paper tune issues from knocking under the arrow? Just a thought.
 
#10 ·
A bow can be tuned either way, with or without a loop. I don't use a loop and never have any trouble tuning this way. Just make sure your bow is in spec and the cam is in the right orientation. Check the string and cable length, the draw length and the nocking point height. It is harder to tune if your nocking point is located higher than your rest holes. Solocams have certain criteria that needs to be meet to help establish good nock travel. First tune the bow then tune the arrow.
 
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