I always begin my tuning with paper tuning at a distance of 6 ft. I have always been able to get my bows to shoot bullet holes. This bow is producing slight tears to the right no matter which way I move the rest, which happens to be a Limb Driver. I am shooting 27" draw, 60 lbs with Radial X-weave pro 200's cut to 27.5" with 75 grain field tips.
I have tried 100 grain tips with no noticeable difference. The bow is in spec and the cams are timed.
What am I missing?
Before you swap limbs make sure you are not getting fletching contact with your rest. I would try a different rest just to make sure that is not the problem before I would switch limbs.
Swapping limbs in order to tune a bow is simply unacceptable.
What you're saying is that there's some sort of cam lean taking place and swapping limbs somehow magically corrects the situation. This kind of hocus pocus (for you young whippersnappers this means "magic") doesn't wash and is not what the average bow owner wants to be confronted with.
I will stick with bows that use split harnesses, which can be used to adjust and eliminate cam/ limb lean, which ultimately produces bullet holes in the tuning process.
Now, having stated the above, what I would like to see is a rebuttal of the limb swapping advice by someone that REALLY knows how to tune the bow in question,because I will not consider purchasing a bow that requires this.
JMHO.
I think the reason they are telling him to swap the limbs is that on some of the bows the top limb was put on bottom and vice versa at the factory. A bow that will not tune is a symptom of this. Sure it shouldn't have happened but sometimes mistakes get through.
Before you ask, no the top and bottom limbs are not the same. One side is a little thicker, therefore stiffer, to eliminate cam lean.
I would try easier fixes before the limb swap though.
The reason for swapping the limbs is that there has been some inconsistancies with barnsdale limbs. Some are coming out about 1/16th longer and the 2 track binary cams like the longer limb to be on the bottom.
My bad. I was thinking back before the new two track cams. I'm not even sure what I said was right about the limbs before the new cams but I had heard that a few years ago.
Swapping limbs is not necessary. Call Elite and have them send you the proper shims. I had the same problem with my GT500, and put the correct spacers in (took all of 5 minutes) and it shoots perfect.
My Limb Driver was contacting my fletchings. I cut down the prongs on the LD and this solved my problem. The rest was timed correctly but the left prong was contacting the high side of the arrow shelf causing it to bounce in my estimation.
At any rate, I was then able to move my rest to the left more (out toward the left side of the arrow shelf). I was then able to shoot bullet holes with a bare shaft - my preferred first step in tuning a bow.
My only question remaining at this point is how far out can one's rest be and still be considered acceptable for Elite's specs? My rest is now between 15/16" and 1" away from the riser at the berger hole.
I know in the Elite literature, they recommend 7/8". Is this just a starting point, like I'm assuming and is my center shot okay?
Thanks for all the help,
Tim
Center shot is right at 15/16 shooting bullet holes...
and man is this bow accurate! I have 11 yards in my basement where I can shoot and at that distance I am consistently hitting 1/4" dots!
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