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Need Tuning advice

1K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  JParcher 
#1 ·
I have a Bowtech Tribute (20006) that is set at 65 lbs. While it seems to shoot good, when I papertune this bow with my QAD ultra drop-away rest, I can'd move it enough to stop sideways tears.

As I mentioned, it seems to shoot well, but I just wonder if there is anything I can do to really dial this bow in. Thanks for the help.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Sorry for the lack of info

I am shooting Easton ST Axis N-Fused Carbon arrows...400 spine and 9.0 gpi. I shoot 100 gr. broadheads, typically the Rage 2-Blade. I am pretty good about torque and watching my grip. I do use the 2" Blazer which is tall...but I think I am getting clearance. I have tried the foot powder trick to check that, but haven't tried 4" veins wince I have had that bow.

At times it is like you can't move the rest over enough on my bow but I really don't know.

Please let me know if you have any other questions and thanks for help.
 
#5 ·
I am shooting Easton ST Axis N-Fused Carbon arrows...400 spine and 9.0 gpi. I shoot 100 gr. broadheads, typically the Rage 2-Blade. I am pretty good about torque and watching my grip. I do use the 2" Blazer which is tall...but I think I am getting clearance. I have tried the foot powder trick to check that, but haven't tried 4" veins wince I have had that bow.

At times it is like you can't move the rest over enough on my bow but I really don't know.

Please let me know if you have any other questions and thanks for help.

Almost there.

Now,
measure the length of the arrow,
from end of shaft to the other end of shaft.

What is the LENGTH of the carbon tube only?


Now,
one more thing.


What is the bow draw length setting?

2006 BowTech Tribute
Draw Weight = 65 lbs

Draw Length = ??


Easton ST Axis N-Fused 400 spine rating
Arrow Shaft Length = ??
Blazer vanes

100 grain broadheads
 
#6 ·
Almost There

tube only 28.25"

Draw Length 29" is what it has always been set on but I am not sure how to double check that though.

I am trying to learn more about all this as I want to be able to make any and all repairs at some point...once I have the cash to invest in all needed equipment.
 
#7 ·
tube only 28.25"

Draw Length 29" is what it has always been set on but I am not sure how to double check that though.

I am trying to learn more about all this as I want to be able to make any and all repairs at some point...once I have the cash to invest in all needed equipment.


Drop draw weight down to 59 lbs
or 60 lbs and then retune.

Gotta check for centershot (arrow rest position...left to right).

With 65 lbs of draw weight,
too much power for the arrow shaft,
so the arrow shaft bends and wobbles and does random crazy things
just after you release the arrow.


Down around 59 lbs,
the arrow can handle the lower level of power,
and then the arrow will react much more predictably,
and you will need to tweak the arrow rest
to get the arrow to fly in line with the direction of the string.
 
#9 ·
Draw Weight

How would you suggest accurately dropping the weight. Before the season, I actually played with it a little it and had to take the bow to a pro shop becuse I think I caused it to go out of wack. So, I am a little scared to mess with it as I don't have a scale to check it. Let's just say I really wanted to shoot 65-70 lbs...what would my options be then?

Will have to get someone to help me measure draw length...will get back with you on that one.
 
#10 ·
How would you suggest accurately dropping the weight. Before the season, I actually played with it a little it and had to take the bow to a pro shop becuse I think I caused it to go out of wack. So, I am a little scared to mess with it as I don't have a scale to check it. Let's just say I really wanted to shoot 65-70 lbs...what would my options be then?

Will have to get someone to help me measure draw length...will get back with you on that one.

To drop the draw weight...

use a hex wrench and take out 1 full turn off the top limb bolt
AND
use the same hex wrench and take out 1 full turn off the bottom limb bolt.


Very handy to put a dab of paint at put
the dab of paint at the 12-o'clock position
for both limb bolts.

Then,
just keep rotating counter-clockwise
until you get the mark back to 12-o'clock,
for both limb bolts.


Shoot the arrow,
and see how it does.

Double check the arrow rest position,
and make small adjustments.

Do a search for "modified" french tuning.

This will help you get the arrow rest to the correct position.
 
#11 ·
Okay

I will look into all of this but as I said, I would like to shoot a heavier draw weight if possible on this 60-70 lb Tribute. If that means I would have to shoot a stiffer arrow, it would probably defeat the purpose but I just like having that extra kinetic energy and speed. Then again, if it's wobbling out of the gate...it won't be very good anyway.
 
#13 ·
I will look into all of this but as I said, I would like to shoot a heavier draw weight if possible on this 60-70 lb Tribute. If that means I would have to shoot a stiffer arrow, it would probably defeat the purpose but I just like having that extra kinetic energy and speed. Then again, if it's wobbling out of the gate...it won't be very good anyway.
You usually don't get both. A heavier arrow will yield KE. A lighter arrow will yield more speed.

What type of shooting are you looking to do? KE may be more important than speed (hunting) or Speed could be your friend (3D, Field).
 
#12 ·
Jared,

As I read the Easton Arrow Chart, you should be shooting a 340. You are on the light side for a 400 with the Binary Cams. Spine aside, you may want to look at your fletching again... The foot powder may have revealed that you clear your rest ok... But I have seen (just the other day again) where the higher profile of a blazer vane when shot with the odd fletch up, actually catches the cables causing is to kick. Simply rotate your arrow once, so that your odd fletch is out, like a finger shooter. Shoot it and see if there is a different tear.

You may have to go to a stiffer shaft, especially if you wanna bump up in poundage.
 
#14 ·
Setup

I typically have my bow set up to hunt...and then 3D comes second. Last spring and summer was my first to shoot 3D and I have really enjoyed it. I plan to keep doing that. I just don't have the luxury of having two bows and two set ups because of the lack of funds right now. I was told that a 400 arrow was right for me, but I have no problem going to a heavier arrow if that would work better. I thought I was right on the edge b/t 340 and 400. I am pretty accurate out to 40 yards...but was a little worried when I couldn't produce the perfect paper tune holes. Didn't understand why and what the reason was. Was hoping it wasn't my arrow rest b/c I really like those QAD full containment rests. I will try to tweak the arrows and see if I can get clearance but you are right about catching the cables as it certainly seems like it can catch those cables when you look at it.
 
#15 ·
Try this:

http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection

I went with a "Hard" cam. The binary cam may be considered medium buy some, hard by others.

A 340 will give you more KE. If you are really bored, try this: speed x speed x arrow weight, divided by 450240. Thats how you figure out Kenetic Energy in foot pounds.

Let me know if the shaft turning worked
 
#16 ·
Do as mentioned by Nut&Bolts and drop the weight down and try tuning again. It may not be the weight you'd prefer, but if the arrows tune better at least it will confirm what you are being told about the arrows being too limber. It's cheaper than buying new arrows only to find that may not be the underlying problem, although I'd bet it is.

If arrow tuning comes together then you can go get new arrows knowing you're not wasting money. If you have intentions of shooting at 70# then do a reassessment and maybe consider using a 300 spine.
 
#17 ·
Dropping the Draw weight

I am going to drop the weight and give it a whirl...just a little nervous as I don't have a way to accurately measure it. In fact, it doesn't bottom out, it will simply twist until the limbs pop off! To be honest, I believe when I tried to paper tune my bow last summer, it was set around 62 lbs. After I messed it up, I asked the archery shop to bring it up to 65 lbs. I just wish I had an idea about how many full turns might drop the Tribute 5 lbs. What would be optimal? Less draw weight and a 400 spine arrow or more draw weight and a heavier arrow? I guess it all depends on your goals and mine are hunting and 3D. Another thinkgI wonder about is whether the knocking point is where is needs to be. What is the best way to check that as I imagine this would affect the tuning as well. I say this b/c I watched a video of me shooting a hog and from the angle, it looked like the arrow was knocked a little high b/c of the downward angle. Hard to watch all this when you are the one shooting. Thanks for all your help guys!

Jared
 
#21 ·
I am going to drop the weight and give it a whirl...just a little nervous as I don't have a way to accurately measure it.

Jared
Jared,

Item #2262250 at Tractor Supply Company if you have one nearby. They're back in the area where they keep horse supplies; I found them near the horse vet items.
Pelouze scale good up to 110 pounds, same ones sold by all the archery catalogs/companies. TSC is the cheapest place I found that has one.

I put a hook into a beam (bottom of a truss) in my garage and hang the scale from there when I need it.

It's more important that you are sure you loosen each limb bolt the same amount than you worry about the pounds. I suspect that Bowtech's site or your owner's manual will tell you the maximum number of turns you can loosen the limb bolts.




 
#18 ·
qad

Check the rest. My qad has less than 1" of horizontal adjustment and will not allow the rest to be adjusted far enough to the left to line up with the cams on my Z-28. Switched to a Trophy Taker, which has much more adjustment. That solved my problem. I did not have the same problem with the qad on my Switchback XT, so it may be only certain bows that have this problem.
I'm assuming you have a nock right tear.
 
#19 ·
Can't Get Left

That is what I remember...to correct the tear, I couldn't get far enough to the left to straighten it out. I though it was my inexperience with paper tuning but that could very well be the problem. I also have a trophy taker but don't like the fact that it is not a full containment rest! Multiple times while hunting out of a tree I got excited and drew too fast...causing my arrow to jump off the rest. Talk about spooking some deer trying to get it back on.

If it's a problem with the rest, I will be dissappointed as I love that rest. I have killed out to 40 yards with it, but sure would like to tune this bow perfectly. Might I be arrow rest shopping? Wonder if anyone else has had issues with that QAD rest and a Tribute.

Jared
 
#20 ·
Most bows change about 3lbs with one full turn of the limb bolts. top and bottom. Just take a pencil and mark a line from your bolt through to your washer. this will give a reference point when you make a full turn. do this top and bottom. If you have your bow maxed out, I THINK you can go 6 turns on a BowTech, 5 for sure.
 
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