I shot my bow tech general through paper and i got tail left. so i moved my rest right and it was still tail left. then i moved it all the way right it would go and i got a good tear, but it looks freaking goofy with the rest right next to the riser. it doesn't seem like it is supposed to be like that. i mean the rest is like almost touching the riser. I am using a qad drop away hd. maxima hunter 250. 60 pounds. and when its all the way right and i look down my arrow you can definably tell that the fletching would be hitting the cables but it shoots good tears. any suggestions?
You can check the timing by pulling the bow down from a strong hook in a ceiling beam in your shop or draw the bow while someone watches the cams as they roll over.
1. Decrease draw weight. Back out both limb bolts a quarter turn at a time. Make certain to adjust both limbs equally to avoid changing the tiller and nock point position on the string. Also make certain to avoid backing the limb bolts out too far to avoid injury to the archer and damage to the bow.
2. Decrease point weight. A lighter point will have some effect on increasing shaft stiffness. Too light of a point however, may result in unstable arrow flight.
3. If steps 1 and 2 don't reduce the length of the tear to your satisfaction, you may need to change to a stiffer shaft.
tried the other launcher with no luck, tried a longer launcher rope and that didnt work. the only way to get perfect bullet hole is to move the rest all the way to the right like 2mm away from the riser and that looks goofy and it doesn't seem like it should be that far to the right. I guess ill just have to shoot almost an inch tail right. oh well, thumbs down to bowtech
My friend two houses up has a general. He and his son had to go to a stiffer arrow. The cables were actually pulled off the cable rollers because the arrows they were using flexed and pulled them off.
well just great 160 dollars worth of arrows that arent even right for my bow wth. im useing carbon express 250. i also tried a aluminum 2114 arrow. i dont know if it is stiffer or anything but i got the same thing
I had same problem with my admiral, tuned the same way drove me crazy.... so I decided to bare shaft tune it to see if it was any different. I made some minor adjustments and got the fletched and bare shafts hiting each other at 25 yards, and now my rest is just maybe a 1/16 to an 1/8 off center.... when I shot it threw paper the bare shaft tore perfect, while the fletched shaft tore at about 3/8 to 1/2 inch to the left and slightly high.... goups are tight and arrow flight looks flawless out to 40 yrds. My set up is 70lbs/ 27.5" draw
ST Axis 400/ 27" and 100grn tips
dropaway rest
------ I have also read where some people are adjusting ther timeing with dropaways. I dont know much about that thow.
Try lighter tips and see if that helps. It'll make your arrows act stiffer. If it helps but isn't perfect you could cut one of your arrows shorter if you have enough sticking out past your rest. A shorter arrow will be stiffer... If that works you can save yourself some money and cut them all shorter.
i tried a 2114 aluminum and got the same thing, also tried a aluminum 2117 and got the same thing. i dont know if these are stiffer but i got the same tear. and i dont want to go to lighter tips because everything i have is 100 grains. I'm using carbon express 250 maxima hunters and crackers archery guy said that was a tad stiff.
I had the same issue with my Guardian and tried all of the mentioned suggestions. The only thing that works for me is to have the rest all the way over to the right and it works great. It looks very strange but my broadheads and field points have the same POI.
I had a similar problem with my General and was perplexed so I moved the rest and everything I could think of. In the end I found out that when anchored I was putting some pressure on the vanes of my arrow (very little but enough to throw it off). Once I tilted my chin out (left) I was shooting perfect bullets-sounds simple and sounds like something you would notice but I was so caught up in the paper that I didn't realize I was doing it--all I knew is that something didn't make sense. Hope it's something that simple and dosen't end up meaning more dollors! Good luck!
I have a bit of a problem with certain tuning methods! This is one of them. The text below is based on a reply I previously made to another post in this forum.
No tuning should be done at only one distance. If you have ever watched slo-motion video of an arrow in flight you will notice that it snakes through the air on it's way to the target, because of this the reading you get at one distance will be different to the reading at another distance so bare shaft tuning at only one distance has little value in my opinion as does paper tuning at one distance. The reason for this is that you may get a very diverse reading maybe as the arrow is at the full extent of it's oscillation at one distance and if you move the paper back another few yards you might get a clean bullet hole without making any other adjustments simply because you have inadvertantly put it in the place where the snaking arrow is crossing the centerline (the sweet spot)! Move it back a bit more and you get back in the wider swing and the result is another bad reading. So in theory if you tune at only one distance you are only seeing a small sample of what is really going on!
A guy called Gerhard Gabriel devised a system called "between the rails" (you might find it by Googling it) which is much more valid, this involves making a special target consisting of an aiming mark and two lines (Rails) 6cm either side of a centre line, setting the sight mark at 30metres and shooting 1 fletched & 1 unfletched shaft between 3 metres and 30 metres in 3 metre increments and logging the impacts of both at each distance O for the bare shaft and X for the fletched shaft. The marks are compared and the object is to tune both to impact between the rails. In doing this you will see that the bare shaft will impact to either side of the centre line (where the fletched shaft will usually hit) at various distances but as long as they are between the rails they are in tolerance. If you try this you will see that although the fletched shaft remains reasonably centered, the unfletched shaft will change sides over the various distances because of the way the arrow flies. The aim is to reduce this snaking movement to a minimum.
If the button or spine is wrong the bare shaft markings tend to drift or curve outside the rails. I think this is a much more accurate & worthwhile way to tune and gives a better view of the way the arrow is flying over a longer distance where the standard bare shaft test can appear to give good results if you happen to hit the sweet spot but be completely out for other distances.
I must also stress that it is important when bare shaft tuning to replace the weight of the fletchings with some electrical tape or you will badly influence the results, you can do this by balancing a fletched arrow, marking the balance pivot point, taking the fletchings off, add some tape, test the balance etc until you get the right weight distribution.
If you need any more information on this method I would be happy to try to dig up the info if you PM me.
I use paper tuning for one thing,Nock height.After i obtain level n/h i walk back tune then group tune then micro tune.This all done after checking the bow for Specs.Good luck!
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