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broadhead tuning

592 views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  a1shooter 
#1 ·
Is broadhead tuning the final answer? That is if you get broadheads and field points grouping together at multiple yardages, then that means the bow is tuned and nothing else really matters, right.
 
#2 ·
I'm far from an expert, but yes for me it is my final step, even though my nock point is high now. I had to move my rest down and away from my riser.
Since I started out shooting bullet holes, I figure its not now. But you know what, I really don't care what a piece of paper says, as long as my broadheads and field pts are the same at all distances I'm good to go.
 
#3 ·
If you are primarily a hunter then the answer is yes. Good arrow flight is still important as it plays a major role in penetration. If your broadheads and field points have the same POI and you are getting good arrow flight then you are done. If not then you still have a little tuning to do.
 
#4 ·
For me as well. When I get fixed blade BH's field points hitting the same with good arrow flight, the the walkback is good - I usually quit.
 
#5 ·
Yep. When I find centershot I then get bh's & fp's shooting the same poi and that is where I stop tuning and start practicing.
 
#6 ·
My thoughts on this from another thread

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=918146 post # 7 from this link.

Question

#1 May 8th, 2009, 02:13 PM
jds-1
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Western Washington State, Lacey
Posts: 3,139

Broadhead tuning question for you all

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When you do this are you suspose to shoot a field tip then a broadhead and just keep rotating every other shot and move your rest and sights accordingly?

I'm sighted in with field tips out to 50 yds but when I screw in a Broadhead (Wasp SST Hammer 100 grain)they shoot high (about 2") and right (about 3") from 40-50 yds.
__________________
07' Bowtech Allegiance-29" Draw Length-65#

Answer

Today, 02:09 AM
a1shooter
Brokest of the broke! Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 63

Adjust rest/nocking point

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If broadheads are shooting right of field points, move rest ever so slightly to the left. If they are shooting high of field points, move rest down (or nocking point up) again ever so slightly. Repeat until you get the broadheads hitting in the same spot as the fps. Always move front (point end) of shaft towards where the field point is hitting. This is only done after it is determined that there are no problems causing the broadhead tipped shafts to impact differently than the field points such as vane contact, misaligned broadheads, etc., etc. I don't even bother to try to tune a broadhead tipped arrow if the broadhead does not spin perfectly without any wobble. Of course if there are any experts out there please feel to jump in and correct me if I am wrong about this. I also believe shooting a broadhead tipped arrow is a good way to fine tune your bow. Shoot the perfectly aligned broadhead tipped arrow (matching bh and fp weights of course) and use the above methods to fine tune your rest position based on where the broadhead tipped arrow hits in comparison to the field point tipped arrow.
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#7 ·
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=918146 post # 7 from this link.

Question

#1 May 8th, 2009, 02:13 PM
jds-1
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Western Washington State, Lacey
Posts: 3,139

Broadhead tuning question for you all

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When you do this are you suspose to shoot a field tip then a broadhead and just keep rotating every other shot and move your rest and sights accordingly?

I'm sighted in with field tips out to 50 yds but when I screw in a Broadhead (Wasp SST Hammer 100 grain)they shoot high (about 2") and right (about 3") from 40-50 yds.
__________________
07' Bowtech Allegiance-29" Draw Length-65#

Answer

Today, 02:09 AM
a1shooter
Brokest of the broke! Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 63

Adjust rest/nocking point

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If broadheads are shooting right of field points, move rest ever so slightly to the left. If they are shooting high of field points, move rest down (or nocking point up) again ever so slightly. Repeat until you get the broadheads hitting in the same spot as the fps. Always move front (point end) of shaft towards where the field point is hitting. This is only done after it is determined that there are no problems causing the broadhead tipped shafts to impact differently than the field points such as vane contact, misaligned broadheads, etc., etc. I don't even bother to try to tune a broadhead tipped arrow if the broadhead does not spin perfectly without any wobble. Of course if there are any experts out there please feel to jump in and correct me if I am wrong about this. I also believe shooting a broadhead tipped arrow is a good way to fine tune your bow. Shoot the perfectly aligned broadhead tipped arrow (matching bh and fp weights of course) and use the above methods to fine tune your rest position based on where the broadhead tipped arrow hits in comparison to the field point tipped arrow.
__________________
Are you a member of Sam's Club?
This killin' time's killin' me!

Social groups:
Lone Star Archers
Hunlee HeadHunters
Team Broke Mans Hunting!
You are exactly right about making sure your bh's spin perfectly. Any wobble at all and they won't tune properly. I will say that once my centershot is set by walkback tuning I don't move the rest. If the bh's continue to impact left or right of fp after walk back tuning then there is an arrow spine problem.
 
#8 ·
Ok. I was also out broadhead tuning today and I got some interesting results. my setup: Tribute 70# 27.5 draw, Maxima Hunter 250 cut to 26.5", 100 gr slick trick.

My groups were about 5" apart left/right, up/down was perfect. I previously knew that I really could be shooting the Maxima 350 (stiffer spine) as the 250 might be too soft. I moved my rest in both directions and that did not work. So, knowing that my 250 spine might be too soft, I backed off the draw weight. This opened my groups up even further!

So, I cranked up the poundage all the way and now I have much better groups! Now only about 1" - 1.5" apart with the field tips vs BH. This seems very odd to me! I would have thought that being on the edge of the 250/350 that I would need less draw weight for the lighter arrow.

Does this make sense to anyone? Also, now my bow is maxxed out and I can't close that 1" variance any further. Is 1 - 1.5" close enough do you think?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
#11 ·
Advice

Plain & Simple

I've been trying to get some help on arrow size. Can you help me here?
I copied this from another post of mine.

"Now, this is what I think I am going to try. ACC pro hunter(not sure what spine yet, could use some advice here too) , 30" shaft, 100 gr. NAP Hellrazor broadhead, and I think I will try the 2" blazers. Bow will be PSE X force, 60 to 63 lbs., 30" draw, QAD Pro Series Ultra Rest, scott caliper release, and a string loop.
Any thoughts or comments on anything in this post are welcome. "

Looking for the shaft size here. Any help is appreciated. Don't want to buy a doz. of the wrong spined shafts if I can help it.
 
#12 ·
Looking for the shaft size here.
I'd get 340's. I'm shooting a 30.5" arrow at 60lbs with 100gr heads out of my Commander, and I'm pretty close to the line between 340's and 300's. That's with 32" draw. I would try yours at 30" with your 30" draw, then cut them down if you need to stiffen them up a bit.
 
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