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View Full Version : EZ trailcam build tutorial



buckshot164
July 20th, 2009, 10:28 AM
Here is a different twist than my other tutorial. On this one I will be using a Simple Sniper board and a HPWA fresnel. I will again use a clear case (Pelican 1020). This tutorial should work with about any case. I will have an extra step for the clear case for flash bleed. I will be using templates for this build to make it simpler. The information for the simple sniper board can be found at www.snapshotsniper.com. You can also use the bigfoot board from www.bfoutdoors.com. You will need 3/8 standoffs for the bigfoot board. The bigfoot board comes with its template.

Step #1

Print out the templates for the camera and board. Camera templates can be found at this link. You will need to register if you are not a member. Thanks PABOB for the templates.

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http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzo ne.com/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=2612

The simple sniper template can be found at http://www.snapshotsniper.com/SimpleTemplate.pdf

After you print out your templates make sure they are the same size as the original item. If not you need to adjust your printer preferences. Use a marker and mark where the centers are for your flash and shutter holes. The ink will bleed through so you can see the centers from the other side.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9003.jpg

Step #2

Locate where you want the templates in the case and tape them down.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9005.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9009.jpg

Step #3

Drill out the control board holes with a 9/64 bit or smaller.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9011.jpg

Now drill out the shutter, flash and fresnel holes. Use a 1" forstner bit to keep it simple. After drilling them clean up the hole. There will be burrs on them.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9018.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9019.jpg

Step #4

Now you need to chamfer the control board mounting holes. This is so the head of the screw is fluch with the case.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9023.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9025.jpg

Step #5

Mount the control board in the case. You want to make sure the pir is centered in the hole. When you put the battery holder on the board make sure the nylon spacer is between the board and holder. You will need to locate and mount the board control switch. Locate where you want it and drill the case. Goop the switch and mount it in the hole you drilled. The goop will keep water out.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9029.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9036.jpghttp://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9048.jpg


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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9046-1.jpg

Step #7

This step is for the clear cases. You now want to paint the inside of the case where you drilled the holes. This will help keep flash bleed out. Now use a marker and color the outside of the case where you drilled the shutter and flash hole.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9037.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9039.jpg

Step #8

Goop the flash and shutter lenses in. Do not let the lenses touch each other or let goop touch between the lens. Flash can travel through these item to each other. Goop the fresnel in.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9039.jpg

Step #9

Locate the flash gasket. You can buy a already made flash gasket or you can make your own. You will also need a way to keep the camera against the flash gasket. You can put a piece of foam on the case lid so it puts pressure on the camera to keep it up against the flash gasket. You can also use another way of doing this.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9048.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9059-1.jpg

Step #10

Wire up the camera to the control board. Go by the manufactures recommendations for the camera and board.

Step #11

Camo the case. You can use PL200 or PL400 wich dries quickly or liquid nails which dries slower. After the PL200 dries paint the cam.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9041-1.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9055.jpg

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9052.jpg

I used a piece of square tubing for the python lock. I mounted it on the outside. I drilled a big hole and then a little hole on the other side. I then fastened it to the case by drilling through the case and so You can screw it to the case. I also gooped it in so water can`t get in. you can also use a piece of pipe and mount that through he case to hold the python lock. You can also use U bolts or eye bolts.

External batteries.
I was able to squeeze in two AA battery holders for camera extended use. This should double the length the camera can be deployed.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9058-1.jpg

Tools
1" forstner bit or 1" hole saw. You could also use a step drill bit.
9/64 drill bit
Chamfer bit
Drill or drill press.
Philips screwdriver
Dremmel will help with any grinding you may need to do to the case.


Supplies

Goop
Control board
PL200 or liquid nail
Lenses for the shutter and flash
HPWA Fresnel
Control board mounting screws and standoffs
Tubing for the pipe through
Case

I have about $85 in this build.

buckshot164
July 20th, 2009, 10:29 AM
Let me know what you think and what I missed.

egbertdavis
July 20th, 2009, 10:56 AM
Looks pretty comprehensive to me. Gary's little board sure opens up a lot of possibilities doesn't it? Never thought I would be seeing builds with externals in a 1020.

dx2
July 20th, 2009, 05:35 PM
bump

can't tell ya what you missed, but you're making it look easy and I'm getting a slight itch to try.

how hard is it to connect the camera to the board?

the only thing I'm unsure of is how you attached the metal tubing to the box and how the python cable attaches to the camera and then tree.

also, not sure about the lens detail: "Do not let the lenses touch each other or let goop touch between the lens. Flash can travel through these item to each other."

rookie questions probably, but maybe it'll help someone else too.

buckshot164
July 20th, 2009, 06:24 PM
The wires are easy. Just insert them into the connector and tighten the screw.

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http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/buckshot164/DSCF9058-1.jpg

The tubing on this one was just bolted on. You take a square tubing and drill a 5/16 hole. Now through the same hole just drill a hole for the screw you want to use. Drill the case and bolt it to the outside of the case. I then put a piece of tape over the holes and put PL200 over the tape.

Okay the lenses are clear. If they touch each other or the goop is touching between the lens you can get flash bleed. When the flash goes off it will travel anything clear. This will give you pics with white at the top side of the pictures.

12-Ringer
July 20th, 2009, 08:09 PM
pretty sweet - Gary's little board has revolutionized the development possibilities.

onlyone
July 21st, 2009, 07:14 AM
Another great job by buckshot!

HUNTERMAGNUM
July 21st, 2009, 08:30 AM
Another great tutorial by Buckshot. Where are you getting the clear Pelican 1020 cases?

BlueRidge
July 21st, 2009, 08:54 AM
Thanks for another great post.

I just did a build with the Simple Sniper and although I liked the board, did not like the way the "motion kill" switch worked. It will come on as soon as I inserted batteries and by the time I get the case closed and the cam mounted on the tree it was timed out of walk test mode. (Entirely possible that I was doing something wrong) I unsoldered (sp?) the switch from the board and installed a jumper in its place (switch always on), then installed the switch in between 9v battery + and the board. Now you can install batteries, mount cam, then turn switch on and do walk test, after which the board will go right into operation.

IroquoisArcher
July 21st, 2009, 05:55 PM
Another great tutorial by Buckshot. Where are you getting the clear Pelican 1020 cases?

aHad some Cabela points so I got mine from Cabelas. Think I also saw them at Gander Mountain we have here locally.

Stanley
July 21st, 2009, 09:52 PM
Great job. Thanks

IroquoisArcher
July 21st, 2009, 10:37 PM
Quick question. Am I correct that the Simple Sniper board can be mounted horizontally or vertically? If so, is it possible to do it with a Yeti board? Have one but if it can't then I think it would be too tight (without some grinding-S40 camera). Have 3 of the 1020's so may just get the Sniper boards if the Yeti can't.
Thanks.
And by the way, nice build.:thumbs_up

buckshot164
July 22nd, 2009, 01:12 AM
I just bought two 1020 black cases today on ebay for $15 each delivered. That was make a offer.

JezterVA
August 1st, 2009, 06:25 PM
To the top for my reference.

buckshot164
August 1st, 2009, 10:37 PM
If you build one let me know about your experience.

treerat
August 25th, 2009, 02:38 PM
My first attempt at hacking a p32 failed . Think I must have messed up the shutter assembly . Camera would not power up when I got it back together . Tore it back apart removed S/a put it back together and it still works . Will give it another try Tomorrow . Might need to pick up a magnifying glass Those contacts are small .

ghoot
August 25th, 2009, 08:11 PM
My first attempt at hacking a p32 failed . Think I must have messed up the shutter assembly . Camera would not power up when I got it back together . Tore it back apart removed S/a put it back together and it still works . Will give it another try Tomorrow . Might need to pick up a magnifying glass Those contacts are small .

One of the most important steps is to pull the cable part of the way out and mark the traces on the white block with a pencil (then go ahead and pull the cable the rest of the way out). This makes it much easier to keep the s/a correctly aligned when you plug the cable back in.
Gary

treerat
August 25th, 2009, 11:55 PM
Re did the hack got it working .Waiting on my case to dry to put it all together .

The Phantom
September 14th, 2009, 07:14 PM
Buckshot, which camera did you use, and does the $85 include the camera, or is that seperate? Nice post, gonna print it out. Dial up is murder!!!!



Tools
1" forstner bit or 1" hole saw. You could also use a step drill bit.
9/64 drill bit
Chamfer bit
Drill or drill press.
Philips screwdriver
Dremmel will help with any grinding you may need to do to the case.


Supplies

Goop
Control board
PL200 or liquid nail
Lenses for the shutter and flash
HPWA Fresnel
Control board mounting screws and standoffs
Tubing for the pipe through
Case

I have about $85 in this build.

buckshot164
September 15th, 2009, 03:31 AM
Yes, but I got the camera for under $20. It was on ebay and the problem was it would not zoom. Well that was no problem bwecause I don`t need the zoom for a trailcam.

smokecity
December 5th, 2010, 12:05 AM
Wow this is incredible. Thanks so much!

Question... Is it possible to us a Sony P92 with this or a simila build?

buckshot164
December 5th, 2010, 01:10 AM
Yes, but a P92 will need a snorkel.