View Full Version : DXG 567v tutorial

August 18th, 2009, 08:43 AM
I will do my best to lay this out for you, so please bear with me. After building over a dozen of these with all types of layouts and arrays, I have selected this as the one I like best. It is a shelf system started by Treetop at BFoutdoors. It is neat and allows you to get quite a bit in there. The pictures are going to be a mixture of 1060 and 1040 builds, just so you get an idea on how to do both.

Start with the camera hack. You will need a DXG 567v. There are actually two different models of the firmware: 557 and 567. The 557, by and large, gives you color after the IR mod without anything further. The 567 firmware version is pink. I have the fix, so you can shoot me your email and I will give you the instructions on how to fix it. Bottom line is either version will work. You can check to see what version you have by pressing "play" and "del" while turning the camera on. It will open into a menu screen and the "firmware" selection is already highligted. Press the little record button. This will go into the firmware screen and the first line tells you what firmware you have.

There are six screws on the outside of the camera. Three are underneath the rubber plugs. Remove the screws. Lift the cover off of the DXG. I start at the bottom and insert my fingernail in the gap and move it around the camera and carefully lift the top off. The hardest part is around the battery compartment. Try to keep the battery hindge on the bottom so that you do not have to worry about the door spring popping out. Don't panic if it does, cause it will still work. Once open you will see the battery compartment at the bottom and the LCD screen at the top. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the board just to the right of the push button and then right there were the HD/AV ports are. Next remove the 4 screws holding the LCD in and gently lift up the LCD. Underneath the LCD screen is the ribbon holder. You can either remove the screen completely or just lift it up.

Now gently lift the board out (VERY VERY IMPORTANT MAKE SURE NO SD CARD IS INSERTED). I insert a very small screwdriver slightly underneath board just to the right of the tape holding the LCD screen on where there are no contacts and gently pry off this board. I then lay it by the top of the camera. You don't need to discconnect the servo connector, but if you feel you need to have more room, go ahead and do so. You will now see the second board. This is where you solder the mic and speaker wires.

I gotta run and get ready for work, so I will finish this tonight. I also have a pdf of the hack for the camera and if you shoot me a pm with your email address, I will get that to you. It's much more comprehensive. This tutorial is going to focus more on the shelf build itself which is not included in my camera hack pdf.

August 18th, 2009, 10:19 AM
6 screws

August 18th, 2009, 10:23 AM
Top board screws.

August 18th, 2009, 10:31 AM
Lift board - pictures of the servo connector and the bottom board screws. Remove the bottom board so that you can unplug the mic from the holder and then unscrew the three screws so that the front glass bracket can come off. When off, remove the glass and re-install that bracket using the same 3 screws. Put bottom board back on.

August 18th, 2009, 10:37 AM
Now that the bottom board is screwed back on you will need to unsolder the mic + and - and the + of the speaker wire. BE VERY CAREFUL UNSOLDERING THE MIC WIRES, THE PAD CAN LIFT OFF. MAKE SURE THE SOLDER ON THE PAD IS LOOSE WHEN LIFTING THE WIRE. The reason why you unsolder the positive of the speaker is because the 567v does not let you turn sound on and off via its menu options. Disconnecting the speaker keeps the camera from beeping when recording and turning off. On some of my builds, I re-solder a new red wire and run both out of the camera to a switch so that I can have sound in the woods while reviewing. Most people do not care about that in the woods, so most skip the switch.

After unsoldering the wires, you will solder a wire to the + mic spot and the - mic spot.

August 18th, 2009, 10:48 AM
Now that you are done soldering the wires to the spots, route the wires out where you need them to go. In these pictures, I was using a modular connector so I ran them out the front of the camera to the connector. Usually I drill a hole right behind the post where the screw goes on the side with the AV/HD ports. I'll post a picture of that later tonight.

Now we move to the lens hack and the easiest way to do this is just by posting the thread over at hagshouse. http://www.hagshouse.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35271&st=0&start=0

Here are some pictures and instructions:

Cut off barrel of the BB224 lens mount. make sure it is level at the base of the barrel. Take off lens on the DXG lens mount and leave it as is. Then insert the bb224 barrel into the small ring of the DXG mount and it fits perfectly all lined up. goop around the gap of the barrel and DXG ring and you are done. Should have taken pictures will do that on the next one. Photos courtesy of txbowhunter at hags. Once the goop has set, screw the lens back into the top DXG board and screw that board back down with the two bottom screws only.

August 18th, 2009, 10:55 AM
Now for the camera hack. This is very easy and only requires 3 wires. One at the top far right post of the power switch and the middle post on the left side of the record button. Wire 30 gauge wire there. The third wire gets soldered to the negative post. Route all of your wires where you want them to go. As I mentioned in a different post, it can go out the front, or you can drill a hole in the cover and run them out right above the screw on the side of the camera where the HD/AV ports are or out the tripod hole.

Some of the photos below are courtesy of Treetop.

August 18th, 2009, 10:57 AM
Once the wires are routed out, put some batteries in and check your hack. touch power to common and the camera should come on. Touch it again and it should power on. When on, touch shutter to common and it should begin to take videos. Touch shutter to common again and it should stop. If that is successful, then close the case and screw everything back together and you have a hacked 567v ready to be put in case.

I will post the pictures tonight on the shelf build.

August 18th, 2009, 12:39 PM
I forgot to mention that the above is a 5 wire hack including sound, but not for external power. For external power it is a 6 wire hack. All you need to do is solder a power wire to the positive battery terminal of the 567v and run that to the external power source. One the shelf build if using a 1060 there will be room for external power, if using the 1040, I really doubt it.

August 18th, 2009, 08:38 PM
Very nice Job!

August 18th, 2009, 09:32 PM
Now for the shelf build. I use PVC board that I buy from Staples for $3.99 for a 11 x 14 sheet. This stuff is very easy to work worth and strong. I am getting ahead of myself though. I drill the IR holes for the BF array and board first. I use the template BFoutdoors sends with the board and array to line everything up and mark them.

August 18th, 2009, 09:40 PM
Below are pictures of the shelf and they are pretty much self explanatory. What I do is get all of the battery holders lined up and gooped in and then mark the hole for my lens to fit through. When I drill that hole, I have the shelf on the case where it will ultimately sit and I make sure my bit goes all the way down to the case so that the pointed tip marks the center of where I drill my 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 hole for the lens. This way the holes will be perfectly lined up. This will save you a ton of time and axiety. Trying to line them up afterwards is a nightmare.

August 18th, 2009, 09:41 PM

August 18th, 2009, 09:50 PM
Here are some photos on how I layout the sister boards, kit98 and pipethrough and everything else in a 1060. Speaking of sister boards (which you get from BFoutdoors), I highly, highly recommed that you spend an extra few bucks and get the green terminal blocks I have linked below to solder onto the sister boards. This will make you life so much easier while building and then later if you have to trouble shoot or replace anything. If you solder the wires in and goop it to the case, you will drive yourself nuts trying to work with it. Likewise during the actual build process, with the screw in terminal blocks you can just goop the boards to the case and then screw in the wires as needed, trust me it makes the build neater and more accessible.

On the lens hole, I pretty much use the 1 1/2 lens glass from the link below, this eliminates any possibility of have the holes showing on your video. I use a 1 5/8 forstner bit to countersink the hole and then drill a 1 1/4 inch hole through the case.

I lay the PT1100 tape over the IR array holes and let it sit for 20-30 minutes to adhere to the case and then take a 17/64 bit (which is the same bit I used to drill the holes in the case) and drill the holes in exactly the same location as the holes for the arrary. Peel of the backing and then stick your array on there.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1725672vi rtualkey65100000virtualkey651-1725672


August 18th, 2009, 09:53 PM
thanks eg! you are a great asset to the homebrew community

August 18th, 2009, 09:54 PM
Here are some of my 1040 layouts.

Looking back over this, I see some gaps, but, by and large, this is a working format for you. If you have any questions, let me know.

August 18th, 2009, 10:15 PM
And the finished product should look something like this. Many thanks to Treetop at BFoutdoors for doing all the legwork he has done on bringing this camera to our attention and providing the quality products that enable us to run it. These builds are really fun and very easy. The camera hack, including the IR hack, is one of the easiest I have ever done. I did not include a wiring diagram tonight, but I'll try to get one included tomorrow. I don't know if anyone wants to add this as a sticky, but I do not mind. I don't post anything that I consider propietary, so feel free to use this as you need.

August 18th, 2009, 11:36 PM
your gonna get plenty of questions for sure!!!

Thanks for your time and expertise, but more importantly your willingness to share.......

August 19th, 2009, 12:20 AM
Here are a few more pictures of the solder points on the 2d board which might be helpful, but I cannot figure how to insert in the appropriate spots above. The top picture has the screwdriver pointing to the speaker wire that I removed. In the 2d picture, I am pointing at the mic solder points. The third picture shows how it looks after I solder the mic wires. The bottom one is the picture of the camera with the hole that comes out the front that I described above. This is the spot I am most comfortable with. With the wires coming out here, you don't have them passing underneath or by the battery posts, so it eliminates a lot of interference.

I keep remembering things, so I'll throw them as I do. Make sure you use a short screw on the top of the DXG on the outside when putting the case back together. If you use a longer screw, the USB will not flip out all the way.

August 19th, 2009, 12:39 AM
Nice job and thanks for the post. Very usefull information. I cut the speaker out and toss it. No need for noise.

August 19th, 2009, 12:56 AM
I'm a bit strange when it comes to sound. I like to have it when I am checking my cameras and that is one of the things that drives me nuts about this camera. Now the new DXG prototypes I am looking at have the sound on and off as part of their menu. I'm really getting excited about them.

On the 567, another thing I do is just run the speaker wires out of the camera as described above, but instead of soldering on a switch, I just leave them as is and then when I am checking the camera, I just hold the two together and, viola, I have sound. then when I am done, I just separate them and move on.

August 21st, 2009, 05:58 AM
Great job on the build. I will start the questions. Do you have to make it an IR or can it be a regular color video? Is there any advantage to IR? Thanks

August 21st, 2009, 06:39 AM
You can go day only with color.

August 22nd, 2009, 02:15 AM
Great job on the build. I will start the questions. Do you have to make it an IR or can it be a regular color video? Is there any advantage to IR? Thanks

It does not have to be solely IR. There are a lot of advatages to using the DXG over the Jazz, and the color is issue is one of them. The DXG IR videos have color, while the Jazz is primarly pink. Most solid object will have pretty good color to them. The blues are a bit muted and the greens in the leaves and grass are as well, but that has to do with the light reflecting off because of the chloryaphell (sic).

Once the leaves go off the trees and the grass goes dormat, you will notice notice much of a difference.

Since I want to know everything that is going on in my scouting day and night, I don't build these things without IR. Since the IR hack is so easy, it really does not make much sense to make them without doing the IR. So I guess the advantage to doing an IR conversion is being able to see what happens at your site 24 hours a day.

That being said, Scott63 over at hagshouse and homebrewforum, has posted some really good summer video using his day only unit.

August 23rd, 2009, 09:49 AM
wow this is the 1st I've seen these, not been around in a while. Whats the average cost to build one of these from start to finish minus the labor?

I liked the video of the IR, they are not yet to the black IR yet are they like Reconyx?

August 23rd, 2009, 10:17 AM
No not black light. The 567v needs light, so the arrays with the invisible spectrum don't really provide the light we need. It's a great camera and on the array, I have not had a deer react to it yet, even though their is a red glow.

My costs to build these are right around $200-$225. But that's mostly because I am saving money on the camera itself and I got some camo cases for rock bottom prices. I've heard that most are spending right around $250 per build. If you get just a black case and the camera cheap on ebay, you can really shave off some costs.

August 23rd, 2009, 08:12 PM
so far I found bh photo to be the cheapest of these dxg's for $60 w/free shipping.

anyone cheaper? ebay was even more closer to auction end or buy it now

August 23rd, 2009, 08:28 PM
B & h is the best consistent price on these at $59.95 with shipping included. I have gotten a few off of ebay from anywhere from $10.98 to $55. I usually don't spend more than $50 and I try to find those bundle packs which include a 2 gig card.

August 24th, 2009, 06:37 AM
Boy, I just find you birds everywhere....:tongue:

August 24th, 2009, 08:31 AM
Boy, I just find you birds everywhere....:tongue:

Stalker! :bolt:

August 24th, 2009, 01:31 PM
Here is a parts list
DXG 567v

BF video board (BFoutdoors.com) ($46)

BF array (BFoutdoors.com) ($32)

5 or 6 wire servos depending on whether you will have external power (BFoutdoors.com or Snapshotsniper.com) (aprox $12 )

2 sister boards (BFoutdoors.com) ($9)

PT1100 tape (BFoutdoors.com) ($3 only need only roll for both builds)

HPWA Fresnel (snapshotsniper.com) ($5-7)

3/8 inch standoffs x 4 (snapshotsniper.com) ($3)

He-AR 1 or 1 circle glass (http://www.whitetailsupply.com) not completely necessary but really helpful 1mm would be fine. I have 1 inch glass we can use which will work, but the HE-AR is really designed for infrared. ($8)

Kit98 ((http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl;jsessionid=0a0109441f4325 4a01f13d0444069b80baf3983db121 .e3eTaxmKbNaNe34Pa38Ta38Pbxz0? sc=5&category=&search=k98)

BB224 lens (http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl?sc=5&category=&search=bb224)

Battery holders depends on what size case you have. 1060s, then you need two 2C battery holders @ radio shack for $1.97 each. If using the 1040, then we need different holders AA or AAA holders.

Green terminal blocks x 4 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1725672vi rtualkey65100000virtualkey651-1725672)

Battery holders for external power 2 AAs.

Case If you want camo cases then, I suggest ebay. Here is a link for solid colors in the 1060. They have camo 1040s for $28.50 which is about as cheap as you are going to find. http://cotradeco.com/products/brands/17-pelican

August 24th, 2009, 02:46 PM
Boy, I just find you birds everywhere....:tongue:

That's what I was thinking.:zip:

August 25th, 2009, 12:00 PM
Here's a link to the .pdf I did a while back. Please note the IR conversion has changed to a much easier method which I describe above.


I have a couple of wiring diagrams I will post later.

August 25th, 2009, 08:40 PM
I've had a couple of questions regarding what the kit98 is. It is a guitar preamp that boosts sound. It is purchased as a do it yourself kit, which means you get a board and all of the components separately. You must solder on the resistors etc. My mind went blank the first time I got one, my solder skills were limited and I made it through using just a cheap 30 watt soldering iron from Radioshack, so don't worry, it is really easy.

Attached is a picture I got at hagshouse from TSCOUT which I use as a reference when putting mine together so that I know I have everything where it needs to go. You will need to buy a 1/4 680 ohm resistor from Radioshack to go in the r5 slot in order to get good sound without interference. You can get by with a 1/2 watt as well.

August 27th, 2009, 10:12 PM
Can we get this added as a stickie?

August 27th, 2009, 11:12 PM
moderators can we get this to be a sticky.

August 28th, 2009, 11:05 PM
question, instead of the dxg, can a Insignia 5.0MP High Definition Digital Camcorder With 3in Swivel LCD be used?

August 28th, 2009, 11:30 PM
Buy one and open it up and let us know. :).

One drawback that I see is that the lens is on the side of the camera and therefore is a limiting factor on how you use it in a case. I like the flat cameras where the lens is on the front.

This camera is a lot like the Jazz HD 178 which a few guys hacked and used, but it made the builds very limited.

Also looks like it has a very small lens. One thing to look at is to power it up and see how long it takes to get to picture taking mode. The quicker the more likely it could be used. Also, appears to be running more than the DXG, so cost would also be an issue.

August 29th, 2009, 10:53 AM
actually the reason I asked about it is because these are running lower than the dxg's. Everyone I have found off of a Best Buy refurb site is around $27 to $33 each.

August 29th, 2009, 11:00 AM
Buy one and see what the time is from starting it up to triggering a video is. Worse case scenario is you get an HD cam fairly inexpensively.

Right now with the IR exchanger for the Jazz giving true day color and night IR, the 567v providing HD videos in builds as small as a 1020 with sound and the new DXGs we are working on very closely with the manufacturer, I'm a bit tapped out on what I'm doing and I really don't have the time to look at another camera - especially with the build issues associated with the lens off the side.

I don't know if Buckshot164 would be interested in tackling this or not. I know he was working with a RCA unit.

August 29th, 2009, 01:13 PM
Here are two wiring diagrams. One I hand drew and the other TSCOUT over at hagshouse put together.

September 9th, 2009, 11:46 AM
I've had a few questions the last couple of days on issues with wiring the DXG to the BF board. IGNORE THE TEXt IN THE BF BOARD. The text is actually off. It is very important that you do not solder any wire to JP2. Solder the wire to the negative battery post on the BF board and then run that to the Com1 port of the screw in terminal. A couple of guys have soldered it to JP2 which causes all kinds of problems with the camera turning off and on.

Wire soldered to:
JP2 - Bad
- battery terminal - good.

September 15th, 2009, 11:51 AM
Another thing with the BF board. If there are problems turning the camera on and off when you start the board, but you have correctly jumpered from the boards negative battery post to com1, then the issue will most likely be weak batteries on the board. As with most build issues, check the batteries first - most of the time that will fix the problems.

September 15th, 2009, 11:55 AM
I have been asked what size of drill bits I use for the array holes and the mic hole.

Array holes - 17/64
mic hole (supplied with kit98) - 25/64.

On the mic, I drill the hole and then solder the mic on from outside the camera (after cutting the wires to the desired length). Then, I lightly goop the outside of the mic and push it bach through the case (prongs first) until the front of the mic is flush with the front of the case (you can do it from the inside as well, this way it keeps the goop inside the case). Then, I take a syringe and fill it with goop and squirt that on the back of the mic very liberally. The goop will then settle down over the entire mic and this way it is sealed from the back. Once this dries, put on your mic cover.

September 21st, 2009, 01:00 PM
Here is an updated DXG wiring diagram care of TSCOUT at hagshouse.

September 21st, 2009, 01:01 PM
Here's one for the Jazz DV150.

November 2nd, 2009, 11:25 AM
Courtesy of TSCOUT over at Hagshouse, here is a new wiring diagram for the DXG (supplements the one above) which may help reduce distortion and save battery consumption with the Kit98. The difference is where wire the negative which would normally go to the mic output ground on the kit98. The negative wire from the Jazz now gets run to the batter negative at slot 4 of the sisterboard. If you need one for the Jazz, let me know and I'll post.

November 22nd, 2009, 11:17 PM
What is the run time on the video clips.Is that all programmed on the bigfoot board.Or can you change it?How much footage can you get before the batteries go dead?Do you have to wire in the external microphone?I would like one I can leave out for extended periods of time maybee 3 months or so.Could you put a big enough battery and a big enough memory card to achieve this?Do these cameras put the date and time on the video?Thanks

November 23rd, 2009, 08:13 AM
The board can be set to run 15 sec, 30 sec, 1 minute and 3 minute videos. On just internal batteries using eneloops, with a 4 gig card with 1 minute videos on the HD setting, I get right about 83 videos and still have battery life. Using the WVGA setting it will be a lot more.

Yes you have to wire in the external mic and most of us use the kit98 from electronics123.

I handles up to a 8 gig card. For a long term build like you are thinking about, I would set the camera on WVGA and do a build with 2 Cs or Ds as your external battery source. That should get you close to what you are looking for. I just checked mine this weekend after 5 weeks (and I don't run many with externals) and most still had battery life. The key would be using the eneloops so that you don't have battery drain while it's just sitting there.

There is no date and time on the video itself, but you can set the date and time and when you review the files on your computer it will be in the properties section, so you can see when it was recorded.

November 24th, 2009, 12:47 AM
Thanks for the info.Can you eliminate the external mic.And just set it up to record video.With no sound?

November 24th, 2009, 12:50 AM
yes, you just dont use the kit 98 in the build and therefore you would only need 1 sister board

November 24th, 2009, 12:58 AM
I am going to start rounding every thing up and give it a shot.I a sure I will have more questions once I start.I tried to get registered at hags house.It lets me login but will not let me go any farther.I have tried to email the moderator but no response.Thanks

November 24th, 2009, 10:42 PM
Why would you want to do that? This is where you get most of your information. If you don't want to go the k98 route, at least run the camera's mic out to the case and pick up some sound.

Thanks for the info.Can you eliminate the external mic.And just set it up to record video.With no sound?

November 25th, 2009, 03:21 PM
I have a wildlife eye.It records with no sound.What would be the benifits of having sound?

November 25th, 2009, 03:41 PM
The benefis are huge. If there is an empty video, you can hear what walked by and many times have a good idea if it is deer versus something else. This is especially important in the case of day videos and helping you identify when the deer are there. With no sound, you are left guessing as to whether or not it was a squirrel, coon, bird, etc. Or you sit there and watch the whole video because you are not sure anything is there. With sound you can tell if it has moved off.

If you get a video of two bucks fighting/sparring, the sound is incredible. Bucks grunting or hearing a snort wheeze. I know I have learned a lot about grunting from listening to the audio on the videos. Take a look over at hags house and spend some time listening to the video. It adds so much more to the experience and is only about $15 more to do it with the k98 and just a couple of bucks more to run it straight out from the camera.

You can even catch the voices of people on the audio, which in the case of tresspassers could be quite helpful.

I can tell you this, I would never do a video build without it.

November 25th, 2009, 05:21 PM
I guess I will have to add the mic.Are there motion sensors on these cameras.

November 30th, 2009, 10:29 PM
The BF board has the motion sensor. Motion + heat is what triggers it. The board tells the camera to turn on and off.

December 29th, 2009, 09:34 PM
Here are two more finished cams. I added one more battery to each array so that they will run on 7.5 volts instead of 6volts. The 1060 has AAs underneath the camera for externals. I really like these build layouts. Pipethrough and kit98 on both.

December 30th, 2009, 10:01 AM
Nice work Ron.

Does the extra battery get rid of the noise I read about over on Hags?

December 30th, 2009, 12:04 PM
It will start the voltage above 6.4v which should resolve most of the issue. Only time will tell.

Ron Meadows
January 28th, 2010, 10:19 PM
what is the response time from perceived motion to actual start of video with these units. I'm getting ready to start building either still or video cameras but need something for trail duty more so than something for a feeder/bait site.

Thanks for your time,


January 29th, 2010, 08:27 AM
The actual start up time from detection to record is right at 3 seconds. However, if you use the HPWA fresnel, your camera should perform like it was a good second or more faster. The fresnel increases the detection zone significantly so it picks up motion sooner on the peripherals which then in turns on the camera which should allow more animals to be centered. As you can see in these videos if you place your camera at slight angles you will pick up the animals moving through at a normal pace.


February 8th, 2010, 08:15 AM
Another issue to avoid in this build is putting the array driver too close to the array, the BF board and the sisterboard. As long as you have 1/2 inch between the driver and anything with metal, you won't have an issue. Otherwise, you might end up with a whine. Even in a 1040 there is plenty of room to keep some space.

February 15th, 2010, 04:05 AM
I'll be posting some video soon. Did one, but did not check it and there was no sound.

February 16th, 2010, 01:34 PM
Here they are

April 15th, 2010, 03:55 PM
For those of you on the fence, now is a great time to be buying these 567s. Go to ebay and type in v567vk and 567vp and you can pick these up new in the box for as little as $15 and probably not more than $25.

June 29th, 2010, 02:53 PM
Here are two more finished cams. I added one more battery to each array so that they will run on 7.5 volts instead of 6volts. The 1060 has AAs underneath the camera for externals. I really like these build layouts. Pipethrough and kit98 on both.

For those of you looking for more external power for the camera, I'd suggest using a 1060 case like I show in post 58. On my newest layouts, I have 2 AAs running down the left side of the camera and one extra C running down the right side of the camera with the BF AAA battery holder underneath the camera. There's still room to have the 2 AAs as shown in this shelf build as well. You should be able to fill up an 8 gig card 2x before the batteries die.

July 9th, 2010, 11:44 AM
I've decided that I am going to add this IR cut filter on any new 567v builds I do. It's $5.25 and can be found at electronics123.com part number JGS2. It was hoped that it would help make this cam almost true color during the day, but it does not, but it does add a bit more color and for an extra $5.25, I think it is well worth it. http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl;jsessionid=0a0103561f43e4 9f70a39476496fb3cfdd26a9d3924f .e3eScheOc38Te34Pa38Ta38Lc3z0? sc=1&category=&search=JGS2

On the Jazz builds or other builds where there is pink, this really helps to eliminate the pink completely. You may not get true color, but it sure looks better.

July 16th, 2010, 11:06 PM
Here are a couple of alternatives to the k98. You don't have to assemble and they are a fraction of the size of the k98. They get wired exactly the wiring schematic last shown above. Great for the 1040 and 1020 builds, and if you use them in the 1040 and 1060 plenty of room for batteries.

http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?main_page=product_in fo&cPath=7_33&products_id=163

I'm currently using and testing all three versions, but won't have any definitive results until the middle of August. But the backyard testing is pretty promising.

July 30th, 2010, 07:00 AM
I've been asked how I mount the BF board so that the PIR gets centered. This is the easiest way I have found. I've attached some pictures which should be self explanatory, but I use one of BF's prealigned boards as my template. I put it where I want it in the case and mark where the for standoff holes are and then with a 17/64 drill bit drill 4 dimples. I then screw the standoffs on the template and put goop in the dimples and around the standoffs and put the template with the standoffs into the 4 holes and put something on top of that to keep it in place. Once that sets, I use the template's hole as my guide and using a drill press, I make a 1 inch hole. It will be perfect every time. For me the fewer holes in the cae, the less I have to worry about leaks, and it makes the outside appearance cleaner. I have made templates for all of the boards and do basically the same thing and never drill the standoff holes outside the case. I've never had a board come off or had the standoffs come loose.

August 16th, 2010, 03:14 AM
Thinking of doing one of these for my first homebrew build.

Would you reccomend it, or I am getting over my head for a first time build??

August 16th, 2010, 03:28 AM
Guess I should add that I would like this cam to be IR, have a preamp and better mic, as well as pipe-through.

What's the word from the experts?? Can it be done as a first timer with some dedication??

What kind of money should I expect to have tied up in a cam with that setup if I purchase the 567 for about $20 bucks.

Also, will the box I have already purchased from walmart work, or should I look towards a pelican.

I'm sure I will have many more questions. I currently have 5 of the store-bought models and I'm already addicted.

August 16th, 2010, 07:03 AM
It can be done by a first timer - just need patience. The camera and IR hack are pretty easy - as long as you have some basic soldering skills. The key in homebrews is to just jump in and start one. Once you start, it will all begin to come together.

As a newbie, you will probably have about $200-225 in it since you will probably have to buy most of the items you needs. Since I build so many cameras, I've bought things in bulk and make my own servos etc., so my costs will be lower.

Speaking of servos, I'd strongly suggest you buy them with stranded wire (patrailcams.com) instead of the single core. On the case, not sure which one you have from Walmart, but if it is the large one, then that would be sufficient size for your first build. Some guys have started moving away from them becuase of the seal leaking issues, but I've not had any problems.

As far as "better mic" just use the one that comes with the k98 and you are fine (just make sure you get a 680ohm resister to replace the one at R5 of the k98 board). I had listed a couple of other options a few posts up and hopefully, I have some results to post on the Range mic next weekend. For right now though, that would be my third choice. Good thing about it and the other one, is that you don't have to solder the board together like the k98.

August 26th, 2010, 10:59 PM
Uh Oh! This cam is about to join the party - details soon, but very, very promising.

August 31st, 2010, 12:42 PM
I can't find the IR array on BFoutdoors?

August 31st, 2010, 10:47 PM
He's not selling it any more. Take a look at the 1w or 3w thread started by buckshot164 for some info on building your own. You might want to also go to Haghouse.com and take a look at the threads from a couple of years ago when we were all trying to come up with a good combination.

September 22nd, 2010, 07:03 AM
I forgot the thread for the star arrays. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1095558 Ignore the nonsense between Charles and I and focus on what will work for the application you intend.

Also, I believe I may have found an IR exchanger that will fit on this cam and am currently testing that. If it does work, I'll post more later on where to get them and how to get them in there.

October 11th, 2010, 06:10 PM
I have an exchanger that will fit on the 567 and will post more info on that later. However, this one fits the Jazz and the DXG 125v. http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2901/.f

November 1st, 2010, 11:10 AM
Courtesy of Huntertom at Hagshouse - a different source for green terminal blocs. Price is by pin. http://www.wayjun.com/index.php?main_page=product_in fo&cPath=1_17&products_id=332

November 1st, 2010, 06:39 PM
Woot, I finally won a DXG. Now to start my parts list. I'll be bugging egbertdavis shortly. :P

November 17th, 2010, 05:32 AM
Here a few links on putting together arrays


March 9th, 2011, 04:03 PM
There is an all in one board - info can be found on hagshouse.com which will run this camera. So far there are 2 exchangers which will fit on this camera. The space is tight and the power switch at the top of the camera will have to be removed if you want to use an exchanger. If the interest is high enough, i will do a short video or tutorial to show how this is done.

April 13th, 2011, 08:47 PM
This exchagner (IR Cut-switch Device SH-B) which is the 2d one pictured will fit inside the 567v. http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2901/.f

July 11th, 2011, 11:58 AM
On the link above, the original 5v exchanger (the 1st one pictured) will fit inside the 567v. You must cut off the macro switch that is attached to the board though. I used a small set of clippers and cut it off right in the middle of the switch (horzontially, not vertically) and the entire assembly came right off. Once that is off, it will fit nicely. I've only done one, and it worked, so I cannot guarantee that others might not have problems. Just be very careful and it should be all right. Also make sure no metalic debris can find it's way to remaining plate as if it creates a bridge, your camera will go into macro mode.

This also means you can now use any of the other exchangers as well and mount them horizontally instead of vertically - this way the manual power switch won't have to be removed.

July 31st, 2011, 10:30 AM
212 is now offering the control board with an exchanger option (and a DXG 125v board as well)- when you go the store (www.hagshousestore.com) use the scroll down on the video board and select custom and they you email to him what you are looking for. Also, if using an exchanger, email to him what you using (ie. "huntertom" or 5v (if using one from electronics123).

August 1st, 2011, 10:10 AM
If you plan on using a Huntertom exchanger on a 567v or a 125v, please read the following: http://www.hagshouse.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44418

September 5th, 2011, 03:51 AM
Since this thread started a while back is there any chance you can re-do the parts list so the little arrays and exchangers and such that are now all available together are in the parts list as one.

This is going to be my first home build and I'm a little confused since things are available now that weren't when the parts list was made. Thanks and if not I'm sure I can figure it out in triple the time it would take you!:wink:

Also I am confused about the IR Flash... What is it called in the parts list?

September 5th, 2011, 12:02 PM
Wow, over 10,000 views!!

The more updated stuff is over at hags.

The array (what you called the IR flash) is no longer being sold. There are still some floating around, and I still believe they were the best at providing light at an efficient rate. There are a couple of arrays on ebay that are circular that myself and a couple of other guys have tried with some success, but there has been no long term testing to see if they can hold up to the use.

The parts list has not really changed with the exception of the exchanger.

BF board
2 sisterboards (if using the exchanger and you plan on using the same power source as the array, then 2, but if a separate power source for the exchanger, then 3 sisterboards.
array (there are some links just above on how to build your own)
3/8 inch standoffs
power source and appropriate battery holders (I've been using the UB1208 12 SLA with pretty good results)
glass for lens hole 1 1/4 or 1 1/2
pipe through
BB224 lens
kit98 or CCTV mic (both are amped)
567v (5 wire for no external power, 6 wire if using external power.

December 13th, 2011, 11:25 AM
Egbertdavis - I haven't had a chance to read through the whole thread yet and apologize if this has been asked already, but about how much are we talkin for a ballpark price when finished?

And what IR array seems to be the best for this application now that the original one is not made anymore?

I will get to the rest of this thread today but just found it and was excited to ask these questions.

I built an old school Sony TR517 videosetup with an IR array a couple years back and absolutely love it. But it is pretty bulky and heavy. It worked good for awhile but after leaving it out on scrapes the last two Novembers and coming back only to find it has sat idle has left a bad taste in my mouth. For some reason it has become unreliable. I want to do a couple DXG builds this summer, so i was happy to find this thread.

Thanks. Jerry.

December 23rd, 2011, 06:40 PM
Ballpark you will have about $200-225 in a video build.

Here's a thread on the 125v. http://www.hagshouse.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42926

You can still find some BF arrays, but they are getting scarce. I've got a few build with my own array using 940nm LEDs (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Product-30P-10mm-5-Chips-Infrared-Red-IR-940nm-LED-/290648950541?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item43ac07070d) and there is a decent circular 850nm array that I have used with some sucess http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-LEDs-5mm-Infrared-IR-60-Degrees-Bulbs-Board-850nm-CCTV-Camera-/140580530527?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item20bb40a95f.

May 21st, 2012, 12:30 PM
Wow, almost 14,000 hits. I'll bet Jags and Treetop would have never guessed that this camera would have been this popular.

October 27th, 2012, 02:13 PM
Here is the link with the information and hacks for the 125v. This should be pretty up-to-date: http://www.hagshouse.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42926&pid=389472&st=15&#entry389472

January 21st, 2013, 12:28 PM
Glad I came across this thread, I have an account in Hag's house and have been meaning to do a first DIY build for a cam, just been taking forever to get time to do it, quite possibly get it started this summer!

October 18th, 2013, 05:19 PM
Okay, Just hacked the camera, but when I short the power and ground pins in the servo the camera turns on momentarily, shows a battery icon with a lightning bolt through it, and then goes into a sleep mode with the DXG letters on the back circular panel lit up in blue. The batteries are in correctly (upper AA positive in, lower one positive out). Tried the same batteries in another hack, and that camera works just fine.