Type: Posts; User: nuts&bolts
I updated the Guide in 2012, adding more pages to the end of Chapter 5.
2010 edition was about 150+ pages.
2012 edition is 177 pages, now.
Here you go.
Play with it, and let us know how you do.
Looks like you have a single cam.
Bareshaft hitting low, is the SAME as a HIGH tail end paper tear, when paper tuning. Very common with the single cam bows.
Tiny adjustment in how you place your bow hand on the grip, will fix you right up.
HERE is a test,
training exercise for BOW hand grip placement.
Shooting a "proper spine" bareshaft is EASIER than shooting a CRAZY STIFF bareshaft, like the GoldTip X-Cutter with 90 grain or 100 grain target points, and the tube is cut only 3/4-inch PAST
Try this. ADD a heavy vertical line through a vegas target face.
ONE bareshaft. FIRE the ONE bareshaft 30 times.
SEE the pattern.
bareshaft is missing LEFT say 2-inches of the FLETCHED arrows at 20 yards...
a TINY rotation of the bow hand,
POINT your bow hand THUMB a TINY amount northeast.
HOLD the bow...
Right handed shooter,
bareshaft missing say 4-inches LEFT of fletched...grow your d-loop 1/8th inch LONGER
so you have a little more room to STRETCH your chest, and SWING your ELBOW MORE...
YOu have a simple alignment problem.
Right handed shooter,
bareshafts missing say 8-inches LEFT...
a simple 1/4-inch INCREASE in draw length will fix this.
If you are shooting a release,
bareshaft hitting left or right has ZERO to do with a too stiff or too WEAK arrow for your bow.
If you are Right Handed, and you are shooting a compound bow with...
Helps if you post a pic of your 20 yard target,
group of fletched and at LEAST two bareshafts also in the target
so we get a sense of SCALE.
Right or left handed shooter?
YOKE cable is a very handy tuning tool.
If you do not have a Yoke Cable, that's ok, you just have ONE less tuning tool.
Any time you have a CABLE guard bow, when you get the bow to FULL draw...the SIDEWAYS LEAN angle of the TOP cam or IDLER wheel (single cam bow)
the SIDEWAYS LEAN angle will CHANGE. If your TOP cam...
Your Elite E32 is a binary, NO YOKE cable bow.
A Yoke Cable is a "Y" shaped cable.
This means, three end loops..a LONG center leg, and two SHORT legs, where the SHORT yoke legs attach to the ENDS...
A bowstring is a SPRING, with coiled twists.
a bowstring maker will stretch the twisted string, up to say 300 lbs of TENSION, WAY more tension than a bow will ever generate.
Shims are precision thickness plastic spacers (like a washer), but plastic for smoothness,
say 0.003-inch thick, say 0.010-inch thick.
NEVER EVER shoot a bow with NO e-clips on the axles.
Tune d-loop length for RESULTS, and not what "feels" good.
Try longer, try shorter
and see how it affects your group size.
Try THIS adjustment, as see what happens.
IF you have room to shorten d-loop say 1/8th inch, as well,
try that as well.
Would like your RIGHT wrist to come CLOSER to the GROUND.
MOVE right wrist DOWN about 1-inch...towards GROUND, STRAIGHT DOWN.
More like this. Must RELAX right forearm completely, and then...
Relax, flatten your right wrist.
If you DUCT tape a ruler to your right forearm, I would prefer to see the ruler fully contact the entire forearm
fully touch the back of your hand.
3rd axis is the door hinge swing angle. When you adjust the door hinge swing angle correctly,
the sight bubble will stay in the middle, when you tilt the bow severely downhill and when you tilt the...
Send me an email,
and we can figure it out. Bareshaft shooting after 25 yards...like 30 yards, like 40 yards...
this is more a test of shooter technique...shooter form/execution consistency.
Send me an email, if you ever have any questions.
The only "mis-information" are folks who don't bother to test out creep tuning....so simple to do,
amazes me......half a twist goes a LONG way, when adjusting sync. 3rd from bottom is what happens...
Finally, two shoulders are level.
Release side armpit is no longer SKY HIGH.
Backbone is vertical,...