G5 Strikers have a blade rattling

[hogester]

Just bought a new pack of strikers, and 2 out of the three heads have 1 blade that rattles. seems the blade isnt long like the others, so it doesnt come in contact with the washer that puts force on them when you screw it into your arrow...anyone have a problem with this? not a big deal but just annoying.

[Deer3083]

I never heard of that issue with them. Call g5 and they will help you out

[Banjo Man]

I only have the Striker Mags and I put another washer (Steel) behind the one supplied. I tighten the head on the arrow fairly well and have not had a problem if I do this.

[Apache]

Interesting, I switched to Strikers this year because I had that problem with Slick Tricks, no matter how I configured them they still rattled.

Did you put the brass washer to the blade with the steel washer to the shaft?

[Banjo Man]

Yes, I put brass washer behind the head and the steel washer next to the arrow insert.

[Toonster]

Originally Posted by hogester

Just bought a new pack of strikers, and 2 out of the three heads have 1 blade that rattles. seems the blade isnt long like the others, so it doesnt come in contact with the washer that puts force on them when you screw it into your arrow...anyone have a problem with this? not a big deal but just annoying.

I haven't had any problem with my G5 Strikers. Ive killed 4 bucks over the last two years without a glitch.. Good luck with that issue!! Toonster

[hogester]

Hmm Ill check to see if the washers are configured like you guys said. Im also thinking of getting a small rubber washer and putting it between the blades and the first washer.

Thanks for the input guys.

[Paul Cataldo]

Many times if the face of your shaft/insert is not square, then you will have this problem, because it's not fully supporting the washer, which in turn is not fully supporting the blade.
ALL arrows/inserts should be squared with a G5 ASD before broadhead installation.
If this doesn't end up being the problem, then it could just be a lemon. ALL broadhead companies have issues from time to time, because they produce so many thousands upon thousands of heads, and each and every head simply cannot be checked.
Prices would be UN-affordable if each head was checked...

[Toonster]

Originally Posted by Paul Cataldo

Many times if the face of your shaft/insert is not square, then you will have this problem, because it's not fully supporting the washer, which in turn is not fully supporting the blade.
ALL arrows/inserts should be squared with a G5 ASD before broadhead installation.
If this doesn't end up being the problem, then it could just be a lemon. ALL broadhead companies have issues from time to time, because they produce so many thousands upon thousands of heads, and each and every head simply cannot be checked.
Prices would be UN-affordable if each head was checked...

I Believe G5 claims all of there broadheads are spin tested at the Factory!!! It says it right on the Package, thats why there so darn expensive and Good. Toonster

[Paul Cataldo]

Originally Posted by Toonster

I Believe G5 claims all of there broadheads are spin tested at the Factory!!! It says it right on the Package, thats why there so darn expensive and Good. Toonster

Yes, spin tested is one thing, but I GUARANTEE you that G5 and every other manufacturer on the planet does NOT, can NOT, and will NOT be taking the time to test each individual blade for tightness. Not when they are putting out that many heads.
It just isn't possible..

[Toonster]

Originally Posted by Paul Cataldo

Yes, spin tested is one thing, but I GUARANTEE you that G5 and every other manufacturer on the planet does NOT, can NOT, and will NOT be taking the time to test each individual blade for tightness. Not when they are putting out that many heads.
It just isn't possible..

I don't dispute the fact that they might not!!! I don't know. But there advertising states that they do.... There are other variables that he could be encountering such as the inserts improperly installed and not using the washers correctly. Hoyt states that they can dry fire there bows without limb failure 1500 times. I don't know if they do, but I know a Hoyt Pro who claims they do. I would venture to say they do in both cases. Anyway I like there broadheads and I hope the thread starter has better luck with them. I think that 35 dollars is a hell of alot of money for 3 broadheads so they better be spin testing them. Good luck to you Paul

[Blackhawkhunter]

I think they may spin test them without the blades.

[Banjo Man]

Originally Posted by Paul Cataldo

Many times if the face of your shaft/insert is not square, then you will have this problem, because it's not fully supporting the washer, which in turn is not fully supporting the blade.
ALL arrows/inserts should be squared with a G5 ASD before broadhead installation.
If this doesn't end up being the problem, then it could just be a lemon. ALL broadhead companies have issues from time to time, because they produce so many thousands upon thousands of heads, and each and every head simply cannot be checked.
Prices would be UN-affordable if each head was checked...

Thats some good info there. Never really thought about that one. Thanks for sharing that. I recently got an ASD but have not taken off my bh and tried to true them up if they are doning okay and ready to go. But I will with anymore shafts I get.

[Paul Cataldo]

Yep, and after you use the G5 ASD, you MUST tighten the BH's down FULLY TIGHT in order to get all the blades tight.
SOME heads may not require this, but I know I have quite a few Strykers which require you to FULLY tighten them down in order to get the blades tight.
Strykers and Slick Trick Magnums are my two favorite heads. I've been using both since they came out, and I've always been pleased with everything about both head designs.

[5MilesBack]

Originally Posted by Banjo Man

Yes, I put brass washer behind the head and the steel washer next to the arrow insert.

I do the opposite. If the brass washer is against the back of the blades, the blades will ding it up from practice.........or cut right through it. I have had them do both. G5 says they designed the heads this way, so that it "gives" a little with contact on heavy bone. I'm not real interested in it "giving", I'm more interested in them punching through the bone.

My Mags didn't even come with a steel washer. I shot one through 3/4" plywood and the back of the blade cut right through the brass washer, split the Axis shaft, and stayed inside the plywood. If this had been a deer or elk, the BH would have entered the vitals with only two blades. Ya, the BAR's might have prevented this as well, but a steel washer against the blades works too.

[excal66]

I shoot the Striker Magnums and do not have this problem.I screw them on fairly tight but not crazy tight and they work for me....

[ParkerBow]

Normally this is caused by the broadhead coming lose.

If not undo the broadhead and take something thin like a toothpick and clean the funnel where the blade sits. dirt or something could have been trapped causing the blade not to sit right.

[buckchaser86]

One of my strikers rattled a bit. It didn't make any noise but you could feel the broadhead moving loosly a bit. I put it on another arrow- Problem solved. I don't know what was wrong but it wouldnt go on solid on one of my arrows.

[Paul Cataldo]

Originally Posted by 5MilesBack

I do the opposite. If the brass washer is against the back of the blades, the blades will ding it up from practice.........or cut right through it. I have had them do both. G5 says they designed the heads this way, so that it "gives" a little with contact on heavy bone. I'm not real interested in it "giving", I'm more interested in them punching through the bone.

My Mags didn't even come with a steel washer. I shot one through 3/4" plywood and the back of the blade cut right through the brass washer, split the Axis shaft, and stayed inside the plywood. If this had been a deer or elk, the BH would have entered the vitals with only two blades. Ya, the BAR's might have prevented this as well, but a steel washer against the blades works too.

I agree with you that the brass washer would be better off NOT being up front.
HOWEVER, Easton will tell you to ALWAYS use the BAR's with the AXIS shafts, IN ADDITION TO the washers supplied with the broadhead.
I ALWAYS use one single washer, and a BAR with my AXIS shafts, as this is the best setup.

[5MilesBack]

Originally Posted by Paul Cataldo

HOWEVER, Easton will tell you to ALWAYS use the BAR's with the AXIS shafts

If that's the case, then IMO the BAR's should come with the shafts. I haven't had an issue with the Axis or FMJ without the BAR's, other than that single Striker Mag incident. With the steel washer up front, they work really well.

[G2shootR]

when strikers first came out, they had a bad jig or tool that messed some heads up. That was a few years ago though, but I guess you could have gotten some older heads in the package still? Call G5, I bet they take care of you

[Paul Cataldo]

Originally Posted by 5MilesBack

If that's the case, then IMO the BAR's should come with the shafts. I haven't had an issue with the Axis or FMJ without the BAR's, other than that single Striker Mag incident. With the steel washer up front, they work really well.

Well that's the case, and they DON'T come with the shafts obviously, but I agree with you, they should come with the shafts.
Actually, I'd be happier if the BAR's were a little cheaper, but hey, they work, and I am glad I use them.
Sure, the washers will usually do the trick, but after all the effort I put into squaring my AXIS shafts, epoxying those damn inserts in, BEVELING the shaft with the beveling stone, RE-SQUARING the shafts a second time, and THEN wrapping and fletching them, there's no way in hell I'm skimping on the BAR's and risking damaging one of them. Too much time and effort to risk even a single one of them.
BAR's all the way.