Bow tunning and arrow selection help please

[CEM]

Viper,

Its a pure target rig, no intentions of ever hunting. I intend to shoot at distances of at least 40 yards eventually as that's what I've got in my back yard.

I bought my first bow (a now broken 40lb matrix) and the 2115 arrows w/o knowing much about archery. Not the brightest move, I know. The first month was a little rough but I got used to the draw weight so I stuck with it.

I only bought the heavy heads because I knew the arrows were too stiff with 100 grain heads. My old bow tuned with 100 grain heads but the rest was almost dead on center. I'd like to go back to lighter heads and a flatter trajectory with new arrows. I do like the idea of screw in filed points though since they are easier to get out of my backstop and to replace in one gets dinged.

Would 2013s be too light w/ inserts and 80 grain screw in field points?

Thanks.

-Chris,

[Viper1]

Chris -

I can't answer your question, only YOU can. By testing the arrows you have, you can get an idea of exactly how over spined they are. Longer (31") 2114s might do the trick with or without a weighted head. The 2014s should be very close and even the 2013s might work with NIBBs or plane jane one-piece glue in heads (70 gr range).

Since we're dealing with an ILF rig, a weak arrow can be tamed by loosening the limb bolts and a stiff one by tightening them down.

Also, the rest CAN be set to center shot, it's the arrow that shouldn't be at center unless you have no other choice. Again, the closer to center, the less forgiving. So you have to find out if a arrow tuned stiff will fly better than one tuned closer to center or vice verse.

That's the great thing about an ILF rig - you have more options on how to make things work.

Viper1 out.