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Thread: Martin Cat Cam-Optimum Settings-Advice-Questions

  1. #1
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    Martin Cat Cam-Optimum Settings-Advice-Questions

    I've been shooting the CAT cam for some time now. I've learned a ton of things. One thing I have found is how to find the sweet spot. We all like a different feel and I would like for this thread to be used to help each of us find what we like. I have done lots of testing and I will continue to do a lot more. The one thing I know is that when you find the sweet spot as I have you will enjoy this cam as much or more than any cam you have shot.

    I wish I had some pictures and I will try to take some tonight.

    I want to help those that want help and to continue to learn myself.

    Let's define some myths and facts about the cam in this thread.

    Let's define some do's and don'ts.

    I will try to start. I'm always short on time and I will help each day that I can.

    Myth-At full draw the modules must touch the cables at the same time, Most certainly Myth.
    Fact-Your bow can perform at its optimum setting while the modules do not touch the cables at full draw at all, and where the gap between the module and the cable are not exactly the same. When you are in this setting, the draw stop becomes the key factor.

    Do's- Use the draw stop to your advantage. Long draw guys (30,31") we would need to discuss. I'm a 28" draw.

    Don'ts-Do not get worked up about the "Timing" of the wheels" get it close and work on the draw stop. Then fine tune. I can help with that.

    Do's-Get the cam wrapped up in the cable as much as possible without the cables touching the cable(Loop) post in the relaxed (static-not full draw) state. This gap needs to be minimized. Again the gap from the top and bottom do not have to be the same.

    Don'ts-Do not try to shoot the bow with 80% or more let off. When you let the bow down from full draw and you feel like you have to push it to get it to come down you have excessive let off. I wouldn't want that for my optimum setting.

    Lets work together in this thread to help one another get the cam in the optimum setting and listen to each others remarks to continue learning.

    I will not be on the thread often but I will do what I can to help. Work gets in the way.

  2. #2
    See Post #12 for a picture of the CAT cam timing position,
    by Grey Eagle.

    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...ferrerid=22477
    www.nutsandboltsarchery.com
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=who+wants+dvd
    Send me an email for DVD = $25.00....

    alanlui@comcast.net

  3. #3
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    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=611716

    Take a look at this and the link in this therad. . .
    "He who gives attention to the word [the Bible] will find good, and blessed is he who trusts in the Lord [Jesus]." - Proverbs 16:20

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuts&bolts View Post
    See Post #12 for a picture of the CAT cam timing position,
    by Grey Eagle.

    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...ferrerid=22477
    What he said. I have found this to be pretty accurate.

    On the timing thing, the mod synch is pretty darn important. Otherwise the cams will "wrestle" each other.

  5. #5
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    Updates

    As for the cam timing. My cams do not match. I meant for it to be this way. If the cams match and I get just a little weak in the shot and creep just a touch the arrow will hit low at 40 yards about 3 inches. With the cams set just out of perfect timing I can pull into the wall about 1/16" and creep 1/4" and hit in the same spot at 40 yds. Therefore with the cams just out of perfect sync I have perfect nock travel. For a shooter this is what I prefer. I don't make perfect shots all day lone and I do want my bow to help if it can. That is why mine is set the way it is. I hope to have pictures tomorrow.

  6. #6
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    Pictures Added

    I have attached pictures of both the top and bottom cams on my bow. The gap between the cable on the end cable loop post you will notice is not the same. This setting in my promotes level nock travel all the time. That is what I like and what shoots the best.

    You may also notice the brass nock sets on the string and their location. For some reason I have found that this Cam likes more weight that the Nitrous or Furious Cam to get the optimum setting. I also found to have more on the bottom than the top. Location of these may very from draw length to draw length as may the amount (weight).

    I will try to get some pictures at full draw when I have another person around to help or when I get back to my shooting machine.

    Let me know if you have any questions.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    Curious, how are you measuring nock travel? Through bare shaft testing?
    "He who gives attention to the word [the Bible] will find good, and blessed is he who trusts in the Lord [Jesus]." - Proverbs 16:20

  8. #8
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    Answer

    Cowboy,



    I use a Hooter Shooter at 40 yards along with creep testing to determine perfect cam sync. AKA Nock Travel.

    Works every time.

    When I started I had a creep arrow hitting low about 5 inches from an arrow at my set draw length at 40 yds.

    When I finished with the adjustments I can creep approx 1/4" and pull extra approx. 1/16" into the limb and all 3 draw settings at 40 yds now hit in the exact same spot within a quarter size group. Better if I could aim the machine better.

    Thanks


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gjstudt View Post
    Cowboy,

    I use a Hooter Shooter at 40 yards along with creep testing to determine perfect cam sync. AKA Nock Travel.

    Works every time.

    When I started I had a creep arrow hitting low about 5 inches from an arrow at my set draw length at 40 yds.

    When I finished with the adjustments I can creep approx 1/4" and pull extra approx. 1/16" into the limb and all 3 draw settings at 40 yds now hit in the exact same spot within a quarter size group. Better if I could aim the machine better.

    Thanks
    So what you're saying is............. you adjust your cam synch to fit your particular shooting style..............

    If you creep 1/4", how can you pull into the limb 1/16"??????

  10. #10
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    Un Confuse

    Spectre,

    Not exactly.

    I never choose to creep or pull excessively. I choose to shoot my bow at my said draw length each and every time. However, I am human. I sometimes get tired. I sometimes get excited when aiming. Therefore I set my bow up to hit in the middle which ever way that particular shot occurs.

    Now if said properly what I mean is if you happen to creep just a little at my setting I will have the same impact. If I happen to pull a little hard a my setting I will have the same impact. When I shoot a great shoot at my draw length I will have the same impact. All good things.

    As for my setting!! Wheel sync is wheel sync just the same. Not just for me.

    Thanks

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by gjstudt View Post
    I have attached pictures of both the top and bottom cams on my bow. The gap between the cable on the end cable loop post you will notice is not the same. This setting in my promotes level nock travel all the time. That is what I like and what shoots the best.

    You may also notice the brass nock sets on the string and their location. For some reason I have found that this Cam likes more weight that the Nitrous or Furious Cam to get the optimum setting. I also found to have more on the bottom than the top. Location of these may very from draw length to draw length as may the amount (weight).

    I will try to get some pictures at full draw when I have another person around to help or when I get back to my shooting machine.

    Let me know if you have any questions.
    Well......

    In your pictures your bottom cam is out of rotation You have it over rotated and this is why your cables do not match and your creep shot hits off... Mine used to be this way until I fixed it

    The cams WILL rotate perfectly when you have the cams correctly. I have my Firecat setup right now where the mods touch exactly the same, the cables gap is VERY close to the same and the cam rotation is perfect. I also picked up 6fps by setting this up.

    You also have you stop set for what looks to be like 40% letoff.. How does it feel at fulll draw? I would have NO valley with it set that way.....
    LeEarl

  12. #12
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    Mis Understood

    LeEarl,

    I have my cams this way on purpose. I want my cams this way. This is the way I get the great travel and sync.

    Keep in mind you nocking point is not in the center of the bow. Therefore if you are adjusting you timing with your release or something attached to your nocking point you are not in the center of the bow.

    If you attach you release to center of the bow and then set your wheels to touch at the same time you will be much closer.

    Agree less gap creates more speed. The CAT cam likes to be wrapped up tight.

    I have about 65% let off at the setting I have. I do not want more than that. I also get more speed this way. My draw is only 28" AMO.

    Thanks

  13. #13
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    I tried it and it works the way he has them set. The bow is more for giving in the shot weather I make a strong shot or a weak shot.
    Doug
    Thats Great! ....Now stand over here.
    I'm driven by perfection. I just don't like it when she tells me to ride in the back seat.

  14. #14
    We have some pretty strong mechanics giving some good info here. In my quest to set up a Firecat after I played with DCM's Slayer, I got referrals for three of you.
    In my limited experience from the past almost every wheel or cam has liked the top cam a little tich ahead, I believe for the reasons GS explained.
    I think info sharing among all of us will be a really good thing.
    Thanks to each of you.

  15. #15
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    I just wish I had strings for this bow. . .

    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=622518
    "He who gives attention to the word [the Bible] will find good, and blessed is he who trusts in the Lord [Jesus]." - Proverbs 16:20

  16. #16
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    Is this opposite for lefties?
    The average response time of a 911 call is 23 minutes....the average response time of a 357 Magnum is 1,400 feet per second.

    Boars--->Longbeards--->Bears--->Boars--->Ram--->Antelope--->Whitetail--->Pheasant--->Boars--->Repeat

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  17. #17
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    Doc

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc View Post
    Is this opposite for lefties?
    You will no difference in the items posted below LH v/s RH set up.

    The cams well effect the arrows the same in this case.

    Good Question

  18. #18
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    thanks for info gjstudt
    Doug set mine up friday using yours and his findings its smokin fast and easy on the creep and over pull.
    I'll be down in March for the indoor shoot.
    p.s. hope we don't have to auction off the targets! HA HA
    BUSCH LIGHT PRO STAFF

  19. #19
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    Good Deal

    I'm glad to hear you like the set up. We shot outside 3D this weekend and I just can't say enough about how well my bow shoots. It's been a long time since I had a bow aim this good and be this easy to shoot.

    I love my Slayr with the CAT cam. Great bow! Great fun!

    See you at the Indoor Shoot in Anderson.

  20. #20
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    Cat cams

    Quote Originally Posted by gjstudt View Post
    I'm glad to hear you like the set up. We shot outside 3D this weekend and I just can't say enough about how well my bow shoots. It's been a long time since I had a bow aim this good and be this easy to shoot.

    I love my Slayr with the CAT cam. Great bow! Great fun!

    See you at the Indoor Shoot in Anderson.
    Cool
    I shot some indoor league 298 12x 292 16x with the Bengal finally bringing up
    my scores and what do I do go get a different bow
    I did gain 45 fps thow.
    BUSCH LIGHT PRO STAFF

  21. #21
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    Your not the 1st

    We archers like to change things even if they are going good. I'm guilty myself of that one. However, it is rare that I touch a bow now days if it is shooting good. I know what it takes to get a good one going and have confidence in the equipment. I assure you I don't make that mistake anymore.

    Group, I will try to get some pictures of my bow at full draw. I had an chance to do it his weekend and I just forgot. Sorry.

  22. #22
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    Cam Pics at Full Draw

    These are the best pics I could get myself. It's a little tough to hold the bow and full draw and take pictures. Please keep in mind my modules are not full size. You will see that if your familiar with the cam and modules.

    Let me know if you have any questions.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
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    Ya'll ought to read the last post in this thread:

    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=611716
    "He who gives attention to the word [the Bible] will find good, and blessed is he who trusts in the Lord [Jesus]." - Proverbs 16:20

  24. #24
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    Testing?

    has anyone done anymore testing that they would like to share?

  25. #25
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    I just want to put my 2 cents in on what Studt has to say. I don't believe I would trust anyone on their advice on setting up a martin bow more than I would trust Gary. If he is saying this or that works best in his findings, I strongly recommend you at least try it because it will probably help. I have dissagreed with him before and quickly been proven wrong!!!! ha ha. I have a 30" draw Cat cam slayer, hopefully I can hook up with Gary and do some investigative tinkering and I will post the results.

    Jon

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