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Serving Nockset Tieing and D-Loops

195K views 216 replies 174 participants last post by  Referral 
#1 ·
I was contacted by kenn1320 with a question on serving nocksets and D-loops. This topic has been discussed here before, but I thought I would start a new thread on the subject.

I always use serving nocksets in conjunction with D-loops. I feel this is the best of both worlds. On my hunting bows, I use a serving nockset on top only and a eliminator cushion button under or a small electrical grommet.

My center serving is .022 Brownell Diamondback. I use .026 Brownell Crown serving for my nocksets. In addition to position the arrow's nocking point, nocksets can be use for a number of other things, such as tieing in kisser buttons, rest pull ropes on drop-aways and peep sight slip collars.
 
#51 ·
wkywtkiller said:
I was wondering this too. I would like to try this, but I haven't seen any serving like that.
This is what Deezlin says he uses in post no. 1 at the begining of the thread.

"My center serving is .022 Brownell Diamondback. I use .026 Brownell Crown serving for my nocksets. In addition to position the arrow's nocking point, nocksets can be use for a number of other things, such as tieing in kisser buttons, rest pull ropes on drop-aways and peep sight slip collars."
 
#57 ·
Fantastic.:thumbs_up :cool:
 
#59 ·
It depends on how long a length you want when it's finished. :doh: :tongue: But I like mine around 5/8" from the bowstring with the two releases I use. One bow is shorter than the other and I use a tied in nock point below the arrow and don't use any nock point with the longer bow. (A longer bow is less prone to pinch so the nock point isn't really necessary.) For the shorter one with the nock point I start it at 4 1/8" counting the melted balls and with the longer one I start with a 4" section.

You will have to experiment with your own, though, to truly know what size they need to be for various reasons. Such as width of nocks, length from string, tied nock points or not and even the size of the nock point(s). So experimentation IS necessary to find the perfect size.
 
#110 ·
This is the 1st time that I have heard to do this on a short ata bow, but that it is not needed on a long ata bow.
Any other input on this?
Or is it best to always use nock sets inside of a dloop?
 
#60 ·
Thanks guys

Following this thread really helped me set up my wifes d-loop. I don't shoot a loop much less a release, I shoot fingers on my recurve, so I was in the dark setting up her Matthews Ignition. And she was paying attention the whole time so now she can do it herself!
Thanks again. Now back to my 'curve :wink:
 
#62 ·
I watched my bow tech, use a lighter set the end on fire let it burn about 5 seconds or so, blow it out, then tap the end with his finger to make it mushroom out. I think he ties a pretty good d-loop.

But he does it a way i have never seen before. for the knock point he ties on the d-loop alone. then serves in the loop? any one heard of this method, ill try to take a picture if i remember when i get off work tonight, which i need to run so im not late now, lol AT addiction.
 
#63 ·
after you tie a few loops the length you like, you'll be able to guess about how long you need to make the loop before you tie it on. i cut mine my usual length, fray the ends out, and then melt them into a mushroom shape without letting the ends start of fire. if you tie it right they won't pull out on you, even if you don't have much of a mushroom on the end. i try to always have 1 piece of loop material in my box of gear that is ready with the ends burned so all i have to do is tie it around my nockset and i'm good to go. later, goosie.
 
#64 ·
after you tie a few loops the length you like,.......
One thing I might mention about D-loops lengths. Many people feel this is a good way of adjusting draw length. It can be, but I would only do this if I was basically shooting on flat land. If you are shooting in hilly terrian, you can get a varying anchor started.

I personally like to keep my loops short. I generally, shoot the loop for a while and then loosen one end and pull it tighter and redue the knot.

Now one other thought. As you can see, I make the lower nockset longer and the in turn causes more tension in the lower knot. I usually ball then end of that knot first. That way I can make a larger ball on the lower end.
 
#75 ·
Deez, awesome stuff. Do you have pictures of the eliminator button or grommet? Also, can you please post a picture with the bow string in the vertical position so we can see how your nock sets look from top to bottom? I am really visual so I need to see good pics which you have. Thank you!
 
#77 ·
I just put on a new rest and wanted the arrow to be centered over the berger hole. I use tied nock sets above and blow along with a D loop. I was going to tie a new nock set and loop but figured I would see if I could move them first. I don't mind tying a new set but find it a pain to get the old ones off. To my surprise I untied the lower knot of the D. Then it was easy to spine the open loop up the string. I then managed to thread the tied nock points individually up the string. It was not easy but once I got a good grip it spun, just a little at first then it became easier after a few turns. Moved them both. Then I was able to retie the lower loop knot.

I did not think I was going to be able to do it, as I tried and failed in the past. but this time it worked.
 
#78 ·
d loop material

What type of string/twine/material is d loop material? I have 3 kids and 2 adults who shoot in my crew and I want to replace some frayed d loops. I went to buy some at my local proshop today and they want $10 for two lengths that are 4 1/8" long. Given they have melted the ends for me, but my goodness there can't be 5 cents worth of string there. Can I get this somewhere else?

Randydb
 
#80 ·
YES many a many people use here for loop materail and the stuff is quality, awesome lady to deal with!!!
 
#82 ·
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