Try a different approach. BUSS cable (this is the cable with yoke legs). Adjust the length (add or remove twists) at the bottom of the buss cable, until YOU are happy with the draw weight. Fine. If you are ok with the draw weight, now we work on CAM sync. But, we IGNORE measurements. We ignore holes lining up. We go and shoot arrows. We look at your RESULTS, to adjust cam sync. SHOOT a fletched arrow at 20 yards, and shoot a bareshaft arrow (with no tape at the back end). CAM sync is designed to SHRINK high-low misses. So, we want the BARESHAFT arrow and the FLETCHED arrow, to have the exact same height, when you fire the fletched and bareshaft arrow. Should look like THIS, when you have the CAM sync, adjusted to fit YOU perfectly.
20 yards. Run a level strip of masking tape through the x-ring on your target. FIRE a bareshaft. FIRE a fletched arrow. ADJUST the control cable, and aDD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists, until you get this result.
BAM. Done. The pointy end of the bareshaft and the pointy end of the fletched arrow are both hitting the top edge of the masking tape, 20 yards away.
BUT BUT BUT, I don't believe in bareshafts. NEVER shot a bareshaft. NEVER will. Fine. Play with the control cable, and ADD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists (top end loop of the control cable) until you get the TIGHTEST groups ever, with your FLETCHED arrows. When your HIGH-LOW miss pattern is smaller than ever in your life, you are done.
Arrows have high-low misses. Work your control cable, and tweak in half twists.
MUCH better. BUT BUT BUT, what hole lined up with WHAT string? NO idea. Don't care. Work the control cable, the "CABLE" that has two end loops. NOT the Y shaped cable. The other cable, that looks like a rope. The "String" has a d-loop and a peep sight inside. So, work the ROPE looking thing, that has no d-loop on it.