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Hoyt Draw Stop Timing (Revised)

342K views 657 replies 249 participants last post by  jcs-bowhunter 
#1 · (Edited)
For those who may be interested I have revised the much posted PP slide of the cam & 1/2 draw stop timing. I hope this addition will be easier to understand...
 
#595 ·
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#613 ·
I have just tuned my newly arrived Hoyt Podium X. Both Cams hit the draw stps exactly on time and the wall is solid. My Pro comp elite is set up the same.

I paper tuned the bow today and adjusted the rest and nocking point slightly until I got bullet holes.

With bullet holes in paper, I have noticed that the nocking point is about 1/8 inch below the Berger button hole, which the arrow shaft is perfectly dissecting.

I am wondering if taking a half twist out of the control cable might give me a low tear so that I can raise the nocking point?
I think something is amiss that the bow is shooting bullet holes and the nocking point is low?
 
#615 ·
Can someone pls explain this paragraph from above written by Javi:
To adjust the cams, I back the string off until I’m sure it isn’t affecting the axle to axle (usually ten twists will do) then adjust the buss cable to bring the axle to axle measurement to a ¼” longer than the specifications for that particular cam/limb combination (see Hoyt tune charts). The control cable should be used to sync the rotation of the cams while doing this. If the cams are in sync at this point the reference holes will be equidistance from their respective cables and the tiller will be even (limbs bottomed out).
 
#618 ·
Trying to fix the timing /sync on my Hoyt charger, draw stops I can get to hit same time easy enough to but I'm not sure how the holes are meant to light up. Which hole lines with with what string and when in the draw circle will they line up. The guide says they should be equidistant but equal how? And equal to what
 
#619 ·
Try a different approach. BUSS cable (this is the cable with yoke legs). Adjust the length (add or remove twists) at the bottom of the buss cable, until YOU are happy with the draw weight. Fine. If you are ok with the draw weight, now we work on CAM sync. But, we IGNORE measurements. We ignore holes lining up. We go and shoot arrows. We look at your RESULTS, to adjust cam sync. SHOOT a fletched arrow at 20 yards, and shoot a bareshaft arrow (with no tape at the back end). CAM sync is designed to SHRINK high-low misses. So, we want the BARESHAFT arrow and the FLETCHED arrow, to have the exact same height, when you fire the fletched and bareshaft arrow. Should look like THIS, when you have the CAM sync, adjusted to fit YOU perfectly.



20 yards. Run a level strip of masking tape through the x-ring on your target. FIRE a bareshaft. FIRE a fletched arrow. ADJUST the control cable, and aDD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists, until you get this result.









BAM. Done. The pointy end of the bareshaft and the pointy end of the fletched arrow are both hitting the top edge of the masking tape, 20 yards away.



BUT BUT BUT, I don't believe in bareshafts. NEVER shot a bareshaft. NEVER will. Fine. Play with the control cable, and ADD more and more half twists, or REMOVE more and more half twists (top end loop of the control cable) until you get the TIGHTEST groups ever, with your FLETCHED arrows. When your HIGH-LOW miss pattern is smaller than ever in your life, you are done.



Arrows have high-low misses. Work your control cable, and tweak in half twists.



MUCH better. BUT BUT BUT, what hole lined up with WHAT string? NO idea. Don't care. Work the control cable, the "CABLE" that has two end loops. NOT the Y shaped cable. The other cable, that looks like a rope. The "String" has a d-loop and a peep sight inside. So, work the ROPE looking thing, that has no d-loop on it.
 
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