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Victory arrows and inserts coming out

3K views 16 replies 13 participants last post by  Barry O'Regan 
#1 ·
Hey guys i have shot both the vforce hv and vforce arrows. both sets of arrows i have had issues with inserts coming out. With my vforce the inserts pulled out in 3d targets. Recently my bran new set of vforce hv arrows, the inserts litterally flew out of the arrow when the arrows stopped in the target, the insert kept on going. This happened to 4 of them in one shoot.

the guy that put the inserts took special care while putting them in. he said he had had problems with just victory arrows before. Never any others.

So has anyone experienced this with victory arrows and what is the best glue to use. And are there any special tricks to get them to stick in more. I love the way these arrows fly but i keep having problems with em.
 
#9 ·
Sorry to take ur thread.
im thinkin of shooting these arrow. How fast are they? You say they fly good what vanes u got on urs and whats ur arrow length and DW? thanks
I havent put them through the chrono yet. But the finished wieght is 327g. With low profile duravanes. 100grains tip cut at 27.5". with 29" DL. I was shooting 420 grain beman mfx at 277fps with my guardian. im guessing 290s hopfully at 65lbs.
 
#3 ·
Did you clean the inside of the shaft? I use a wire brush and then wash with very warm water and let air dry. I put a dab of glue inside the shaft I start to press the insert in while turning, then drop one more drop on the inside and continue until seated, wipe off excess and stand to dry. None come out!!! How old is your glue? It does have a shelf life!:mg: A lot of different glues and everyone seems to have a favorite. I use nothing from Bohning!
 
#4 ·
I had a similar problem. I cleaned the inside of my shafts and everything, but when I used hot melt glue my inserts and my pin nock bushings kept coming out. I used the same glue on Carbon Express and Gold Tip arrows with no problems. I eventually had to re-insert all my Victory inserts with super glue, but kept the hot melt on the pin nock bushings. I don't know what the deal is but the super glue seems to be working great.
 
#7 ·
Victory arrows are VERY smooth on the inside as a result of being made on a ceramic mandrel. You absolutely should NOT use hot-melt on them.

After much trial and frustration and many pulled point I arrived at a sequence that has never failed me:

I clean the inside of the shafts w/ a brass bore brush of a similar caliber (for instance .17 caliber for the NanoForce) chucked in a cordless drill and dipped in acetone. Just a quick zip in and out probly 2 seconds at the most. It scuffs up the inside walls just enough to give the glue something to grab on to. Then I rinse in fresh acetone. Finally I use a slow cure epoxy.

It's about 5 minutes of "extra" work to do a whole dozen shafts and costs me about 20 cents in acetone and a one time $2.00 purchase for the bore brush, but in the grand scheme of things it's worth it to me.
 
#8 ·
Hey thanks guys. It seems to be victory arrows do not agree with hot glue. Thats what we were using. We did scuff up the inside and clean it with rubbing alchol.

i am going to try the gold tip inserts and see how that goes. The inserts from victory are a very loose fit. But i think the vforce hv are .345. Gold tip have those size?
Otherwise it sounds like super glue is the way to go.
 
#13 ·
Easton HIT adheasive is the only glue approved for the HIT inserts that go completly inside the shaft with no exposed shoulder. If it can hold them, it can hold anything.

I used to have inserts coming out but never a single one since I changed to this glue.

Points earlier regarding cleaning the surfaces and also "old glue" still apply.

Also, I put a .22 rifle bore cleaning copper wire brush in a low speed drill and run it in and out of the empty shaft an inch or so one brief pass to "buff it up" a bit before gluing in the inserts. Do not run it in there very long - quick in and out.

Best wishes.
 
#14 ·
Acetone will actually break down the carbon fibers over time. Denatured alcohol evaporates quickly and is very pure from any petroleum products, leaving behind an oil free very clean arrow. I also use a wire brush then clean the inside with denatured alcohol with a cotton swap until it comes out clean. I then let them dry a few minutes. I also take a small file, and file
a flat spot on each side of the insert. I use the new gorilla 5 minute epoxy. I have not lost an insert since doing this.
We had a taxidermist come to the archery club and do a demo on mounting deer feet. He drilled the bone out with a 7/16 drill bit. He then proceeded to put a 7/16 wooden dowel in the hole. He flattened both sides of the dowel with a knife, filled the hole with hot melt. When he pushed it in, no glue came out. I couldn't believe it. I tried this on my inserts and it works like a dream.
 
#16 ·
I had trouble with the hot melt holding in the VForce shafts also. I finally ended up using epxoy with no further troubles. I prefer to use the hot melt in case I have a broadhead that won't spin true. A lot a times all it takes is an 1/8 of turn to get it to spin true. Can't do that with the epoxy.

Kevin
 
#17 ·
Use Powerbond Glue instead of hotmelt or anything else

I use Powerbond, dip a Q-tip with a drop or two of water to moisten all along the inside of the carbon shaft from the tip to about 2 inches deep on my Victory arrows (Water activates the Powerbond adhesive) then two small dabs of glue one on each side of the insert, nibb or pin and rotate them 2 turns while you insert them into the shaft, stand em up overnight and you should never have any problems. I have shot my Victory's since the fall both at practice and at Six 3D tourneys as well, with at least 200 shots per arrow and never a problem.

By the way, I don't use alcohol or acetone on my arrow inserts, just a Wet Q-Tip and PowerBond. For fletching I do use a slight amount of acetone on the glue side of the fletch, sometimes a very minute amount on the shaft where the glue goes. But then that's me.
 
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