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Thread: Hoyt cam 1/2 xtr z3 cam alignment (yoke)

  1. #1

    Hoyt cam 1/2 xtr z3 cam alignment (yoke)

    Curious whose out there that has experience with serving yoke and twisting cables to get perfect alignment? I have experience with serving and curious how far to serve it (just to where it bumps yoke?)Also herd about spacing cams not to sure about that part, need one of u hoyt guys to help me out with a good starting point. I do have a laser liner that bolts to sight threads

    NOTHIN BETTER THAN FLINGIN AN ARROW


  2. #2
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    You want to make the floating yoke static? If so, just put the two halves together and serve above the loop it used to slide through. You don't need to serve a lot, just enough to hold it together. If you want to save some twisting leave one side 1/8" longer than the other and place the shorter on the yoke bushing on the cable/roller side of the top limb tip.
    Sent via my 1918 Bell hand crank phone

  3. #3
    You want to make the floating yoke static? If so, just put the two halves together and serve above the loop it used to slide through. You don't need to serve a lot, just enough to hold it together. If you want to save some twisting leave one side 1/8" longer than the other and place the shorter on the yoke bushing on the cable/roller side of the top limb tip.
    __________________


    This is great info, what do you know about correct spacing, or do you think its even ness?
    NOTHIN BETTER THAN FLINGIN AN ARROW

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanehawkins View Post
    You want to make the floating yoke static? If so, just put the two halves together and serve above the loop it used to slide through. You don't need to serve a lot, just enough to hold it together. If you want to save some twisting leave one side 1/8" longer than the other and place the shorter on the yoke bushing on the cable/roller side of the top limb tip.
    __________________


    This is great info, what do you know about correct spacing, or do you think its even ness?
    Hoyt top cams generally have the same thickness spacers on both sides. The bottom has different sizes, with the thinnest on the cable side of the cam. You could experiment with different thickness spacers, but the two used would have to have the same total thickness as the two stock spacers.

    I played with one of my ProTecs like this....I placed a slightly thinner spacer on the cable guard side and a slight thicker one on the other side. I was thinking it would bring the string more vertical in the riser and reduce the amount of side loading (and potential for lean) on the bottom cam. It shoots great, so it sure didn't hurt. And I can't find any lean at all, but it's longer than a Maxxis. You probably can't eliminate it with a bow that short anyway.
    Sent via my 1918 Bell hand crank phone

  5. #5
    When aligning laser should i try and stay more true to cam on bottom and just twist cables @ top to get it as close as possible and leave it be since you think that i cant eliminate it completly?
    NOTHIN BETTER THAN FLINGIN AN ARROW

  6. #6
    Another quick q, i keep hearing berger hole, what is this exactly? Hoyt says 13/16 from it????
    NOTHIN BETTER THAN FLINGIN AN ARROW

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanehawkins View Post
    When aligning laser should i try and stay more true to cam on bottom and just twist cables @ top to get it as close as possible and leave it be since you think that i cant eliminate it completly?
    You'll be able to adjust the top easily (but probably not straight through the entire draw cycle), it's the bottom that is likely to lean the most and there are no yokes to tune it out.

    The shorter the bow the greater the likelihood of cam lean caused by cables being pulled to the side. The nature of the beast when dealing with short bows. Lay an arrow along a cam and compare it to the string. You'll see some I'd bet, probably top and bottom both.
    Sent via my 1918 Bell hand crank phone

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanehawkins View Post
    Another quick q, i keep hearing berger hole, what is this exactly? Hoyt says 13/16 from it????
    The threaded hole where the rest mounts, often used as a vertical reference for arrow rest height. Most times Hoyts tune with the arrow crossing this hole and nocked to the string at 90 degrees. If you need it raised a little for fletching contact you can raise the rest to where the bottom of the arrow crosses the center of the hole and with the nock point raised accordingly.

    Measuring left/right from there the center of the arrow is where most Hoyts' center shot tunes (left/right position of the arrow rest).
    Sent via my 1918 Bell hand crank phone

  9. #9
    Thanks for all the helpfull info!!!!
    NOTHIN BETTER THAN FLINGIN AN ARROW

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