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Thread: Tuning a Hoyt Maxxis 31 (XTR Cams)

  1. #1

    Question Tuning a Hoyt Maxxis 31 (XTR Cams)

    Hey Guys,



    I have done some searching around and read a lot of JAVI's post about cam-timing and bow tuning. Seems there are a few opinions on the XTR cams, so I'm wondering if someone can walk me through the best way to ensure all is good with my Maxxis 31 with the XTR cams for optimal performance and tuning.

    Any help appreciated!! Pics or video would be great as well. Mainly just looking for the main basics of the whole thing and what to look for with the XTR cams.


  2. #2
    I would like the same info. Im about to embark on doing all my own work.
    Mathews z7
    Black Gold Acsent
    Qad Hdx
    Proline Bowstrings

  3. #3
    Ttt

  4. #4
    I had my wife watch my draw cycle and it looks like my bottom cam draw-stop touches a HAIR before my top cam. Not much but a slight amount.....

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rackmastr View Post
    I had my wife watch my draw cycle and it looks like my bottom cam draw-stop touches a HAIR before my top cam. Not much but a slight amount.....

  6. #6
    Thats a good thing I assume? You want the bottom cam draw-stop to touch SLIGHTLY before the top cam?

  7. #7
    Hey there, most pro shooters are favoring top cam contacting slightly ahead of bottom for orientation. That works best on my Alphamax w/ XTR's and the Spirals on my Alphaburner. But if youre hitting what youre aiming at, and happy, I wouldnt change a thing.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by pullupguy View Post
    Hey there, most pro shooters are favoring top cam contacting slightly ahead of bottom for orientation. That works best on my Alphamax w/ XTR's and the Spirals on my Alphaburner. But if youre hitting what youre aiming at, and happy, I wouldnt change a thing.
    I just installed my peep after shooting about 200 arrows through it. I figure while I'm adjusting my peep rotation I can also set up the draw-stop timing and get it tuned right as well.

    If most guys are favoring the top cam contacting first, how do I go about setting that up and what adjustments need to be made?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rackmastr View Post
    I just installed my peep after shooting about 200 arrows through it. I figure while I'm adjusting my peep rotation I can also set up the draw-stop timing and get it tuned right as well.

    If most guys are favoring the top cam contacting first, how do I go about setting that up and what adjustments need to be made?
    Twisting up the control cable brings the top cam forward and untwisting the control cable ******s the bottom cam. You will need to expiriment by twisting or untwisting but only do one at a time.
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  10. #10
    Thanks...I will have to do a bit of looking to see which one is the control cable and play around to get things figured out. Its kinda a tricky thing playing with the peep rotation and the draw-stop timing all at once eh? Lots of pressing, twisting, shooting, etc....

    Whats the main thing a guy sees from tuning the draw stop timing in?

  11. #11
    Sorry I didnt answer your follow up post, but Elf Friend took care of the info. Like he said, experiment w/ it a bit, no more than 2-3 twists per cable, count your twists so you can undo anything that went in the wrong direction so far as orientation is concerned. Also, once your happy w/ accuracy and back wall, mark those cams where they pass limbs w/ a mech. pencil so you can return it to the same place after minor string/cable creep.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by pullupguy View Post
    Sorry I didnt answer your follow up post, but Elf Friend took care of the info. Like he said, experiment w/ it a bit, no more than 2-3 twists per cable, count your twists so you can undo anything that went in the wrong direction so far as orientation is concerned. Also, once your happy w/ accuracy and back wall, mark those cams where they pass limbs w/ a mech. pencil so you can return it to the same place after minor string/cable creep.
    Thanks man. Thats a really helpful post and greatly appreciated.

    So, main reason to tune the draw-stop timing is for accuracy and for the hardness of the wall, correct?

  13. #13
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    You're going to need a bow press, some type of draw board, and a bow scale if you want to do it right. The bow needs to be at (or a bit over max poundage) when the limbs are bottomed out.Then you can set the cams. The ATA, DL, and BH don't have to be exact but should be close when you're done. Tiller should be even. At full draw you want your top cam (draw stop) to hit first (maybe an 1/8" or so) before the bottom, but if it hits at the same time as the bottom (draw stop) that isn't bad. You don't want the bottom to hit first.

    Top cam


    Bottom cam
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  14. #14
    Thanks Bowkill! Keep the comments coming guys!

    I dont have a draw-board but have been having my wife watch me draw (kinda tough to hold bow or have her watch at the same time).

    I do of course have a press and a scale, so I'll do some tinkering around to see what I can come up with.

    How do I adjust/measure tiller on a Hoyt? I have done a lot of adjustments on some Mathews in the past but been a while since I've tinkered much.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rackmastr View Post
    Thanks Bowkill! Keep the comments coming guys!

    I dont have a draw-board but have been having my wife watch me draw (kinda tough to hold bow or have her watch at the same time).

    I do of course have a press and a scale, so I'll do some tinkering around to see what I can come up with.

    How do I adjust/measure tiller on a Hoyt? I have done a lot of adjustments on some Mathews in the past but been a while since I've tinkered much.
    You can screw a hook into the top of a door frame to hook the bowstring on then pull the riser down. You can watch your cams roll over that way. Or a full length mirror. Measure tiller just like any other compound, from the limb (pocket) to the string. It's kind of hard to see in this pic, but there's an eye bolt screwed into the top of the door frame just to the left of the long florescent light. When I don't feel like hauling out my draw machine for a quick check, I'll put a metal hook in the eye bolt and use that to draw the bow. I also hang my bow scale from there.

    Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo / Hoyt Spyder 34 / QAD Ultra HDX / Center Circle Bow Strings / Hogg-It Wrapped / Bee Stinger Stabilizer / Carter RX1 / Carter Too Simple / Tru Ball HT/ NAP Spitfire 100 gr. / Easton ACC 3-49 / Blazers / ASAT Camo / Jim Beam / Copenhagen / Ford Trucks
    **Don't Tread On Me**

  16. #16
    bowhunters73 Guest

    tune

    why should the top cam to hit frist. i have never tuned a bow and try in to learn any help

  17. #17
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    Draw stop timing is a personal preference, I like mine to hit at the same time.It makes for a more solid wall. As far as figuring out which cable is which, if you look at the bottom of the roller guard it has BC & CC stamped in it. Proper tune on these bows will make them shoot like nite and day.

  18. #18
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    I think the HOYT Alpha Burner is a little confusing. One stop is like you explained above. But the other on a Alphaburner is a Slotted stop. I would think when the string was flush in the slot it was at full stop. But I dont know forsure.


  19. #19
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie_00 View Post
    I think the HOYT Alpha Burner is a little confusing. One stop is like you explained above. But the other on a Alphaburner is a Slotted stop. I would think when the string was flush in the slot it was at full stop. But I dont know forsure.

    And you would be correct.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowhunters73 View Post
    why should the top cam to hit frist. i have never tuned a bow and try in to learn any help
    The top cam doesn't necessarily need to hit first, and if it does it's only by maybe an 1/8" so you won't notice any difference in the wall. It'll be just as solid as if both cams hit at the same time. The reason some like to have the top cam hit first is because when the top cam fires just a bit ahead of the bottom cam it puts a little down pressure on the arrow keeping the arrow from possibly coming up off the rest. Honestly, I've set bows up both ways and can't tell the difference in accuracy, wall, etc. But Hoyt bows do seem to like the top cam to fire just a bit ahead of the bottom.
    Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo / Hoyt Spyder 34 / QAD Ultra HDX / Center Circle Bow Strings / Hogg-It Wrapped / Bee Stinger Stabilizer / Carter RX1 / Carter Too Simple / Tru Ball HT/ NAP Spitfire 100 gr. / Easton ACC 3-49 / Blazers / ASAT Camo / Jim Beam / Copenhagen / Ford Trucks
    **Don't Tread On Me**

  23. #23
    Ttt

  24. #24
    ttt
    Bowaddict

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