Firenock/Lumenock/Nockturnal Head 2 Head (Repost)

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  1. #1
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    Firenock/Lumenock/Nockturnal Head 2 Head (Repost)



    Lumenock

    The Lumenock uses two wires that press against the end of your arrow to complete a circuit that lights the nock up. It is quite bright and fits the arrow snug. The Lumenock shuts off by twisting the nock after the shot to bring the metal off the end of the arrow. The Lumenock was the brighter of the two nocks I tested before the arrival of the Firenock (the Firenock is comparable to the brightness as you will learn later). The installation was simple as I only had to insert it in the non-unibushed side of my 3-60 ACC arrows. Upon first shooting the Lumenock I found it to be more accurate than the Nockturnal as the Nockturnal would tend to drop more than the Lumenock would. On shot 23 the Lumenock did activate before the shot, I do not know if I pushed too hard on the pin within the nock throat or if it was a fluke, but it did illuminate before the 23rd shot.

    After the fiftieth shot I proceeded on to the water solution test.

    The water test:
    The Lumenock and the Nockturnal were both completely submerged in water for 20 hours to see how water tight their systems were. The Lumenock illuminated immediately upon entrance into the water. I turned off the nock and placed it back into the water, again it illuminated. Once again, I turned off the nock and placed it in the water, this time it did not illuminate upon entrance into the water. Upon checking on the nocks the next morning I noticed the Lumenock again was illuminated, this time I left it. The nock was lit for at least 12 hours before I turned it off to continue testing.



    The next twenty-five shots went without incident. After shot seventy-five I began the next phase of the test.

    The salt water test:
    The Lumenock and Nockturnal were submerged in a cup of water prepared with one table spoon of salt water. No matter how many times I tried (5), I could not get the Lumenock to shut off within the water. I believe the salt acted completed the circuit between the two wires. The Lumenock and Nockturnal stayed in the solution for 20 hours, as I placed them in at 6pm and took them back out to dry at just a tad after 2pm the next day. The Lumenock was much dimmer than when I purchased it before I took it out of the solution.



    The nock shut off immediately after I took it out of the salt water. Both nocks sat on my dresser for two days before firing them again.



    Failure: I knocked the excess salt off the nock and fired into my blob target. The nock did not illuminate on the 76th firing. I fired another shot into my blob, again it did not illuminate. The nock has failed to complete the testing.




    Nockturnal

    The Nockturnal is based on the Thill bobber head design many DIY have done over the past few years. Their big difference is they have designed a clear nock with a slot cut into it to provide better access to the head to shut off the light. The build seems to be quite nice as it is put together quite professionally. The only thing I would change about it would be the packaging, as I can see a LOT of retailers losing nocks to theives, as the plastic holding the nocks in is NOT stapled shut. The Nockturnal was the dimmer of the two nocks I tested before the arrival of the Firenock. The installation was simple as I only had to insert it in the non-unibushed side of my 3-60 ACC arrows. Of all the nocks the Nockturnal slid into the arrow the easiest. The Nockturnal had a tendency to drop more than either the Lumenock or eventually the Firenock would. On the 16th, 23rd, and 37th shot the Nockturnal illuminated on the arrow, I have not been able to justify whether I didn’t push the LED up enough or not.

    After the fiftieth shot was completed I proceeded on to the water solution test.

    The water test:
    The Lumenock and the Nockturnal were both completely submerged in water for 20 hours to see how water tight their systems were. The Nockturnal stayed off the entire time it was water tested.

    The next twenty-five shots went without incident. The nock did not prematurely illuminate, I ensured this time I used a knife and that I felt the slight click of the LED. After shot seventy-five I began the next phase of the test.

    The salt water test: The Lumenock and Nockturnal were submerged in a cup of water prepared with one table spoon of salt water. The Nockturnal stayed off during the entire salt water test. There was build up of salt on the Nockturnal noticed before placing it on my dresser. The next morning I walked into the room to dress and noticed the Nockturnal was illuminated. As I grabbed my camera to take a picture a small clod of salt fell out of the slot created to shut off the light. Upon this happening the nock turned off. This was not noticed again. Both nocks sat on my dresser for a total of two days before firing them again.



    Failure: I knocked the excess salt off the nock and fired into my blob target. The nock did not illuminate on the 76th firing. I fired another shot into my blob, again it did not illuminate. The nock has failed to complete the testing.



    Firenock

    The Firenock uses a "G" sensor to illuminate the nock. This sensor is more complicated than both the other nocks which would make me believe that it was more susceptible to breakage than the others. Unlike the other two nocks the Firenock also does not come fully assembled as the user has the ability to change his/her battery when it runs out. To shut off the firenock you drop the arrow onto the nock end at about 6 inches above a hard surface. To me this is a novel idea as blood soaked hands sometimes make it hard to grip a nock to twist it. The Firenock was on par with the brightness of the Lumenock and possibly slightly brighter when looking into the back of the nock. The Firenock grouped with the Lumenock and fired higher than the Nockturnal. I do not know if this was an issue with the Nockturnal or blind luck that they grouped the way they did. The Firenock was the most difficult to install as you had to install the battery and shave off the plastic notches to insert into the Easton 3-60 ACC arrow. This was not a big deal as I had the nock built and installed within about five minutes time.

    The first fifty arrows worked perfectly fine and I moved onto the water test.



    Water test:
    The Firenock arrow was completely submerged in water for almost two days. This was not on purpose but due to an emergency that took place during the testing. After taking the arrow out I noticed a small buildup of salt or hard water residue on the arrow. The nock to my knowledge did not illuminate the entire time it was in the water. The next twenty-five shots went without incident.

    Salt water test:
    The Firenock was placed in water with one tablespoon of salt for 21 hours as it was placed in the cup at 830pm but was not taken out until almost 530pm the next day. I attempted to make this as even as I could but I arrived home from work a little later than expected. To make things fair the Firenock sat on my dresser in the same spot the others sat for two days before I continued firing it.



    Final test: Besides salt residue on the nock and arrow it flew great and illuminated every time. I do not know how it survived the saltwater test as the PCB (main board) you would think would be in the water as well. However, it did survive the entire test up to shot 99. I decided instead of firing into a brick I would fire it into my blob for one last shot, giving the Firenock 100 completed illuminations after the shot.
    "Smooth Death" 06 Bowtech Tribute | TR Revolution | Trophy Ridge React One .010 | 11" KTech 2 Rod | HT-1 .300 .001 495gr w/ FOB | Rage Hypodermic
    "Silent Death" 14 Bear Anarchy HC 28.5/71 | QAD HDX | Trophy Ridge React | TR 9" Stabilizer | Muddy Impact 350 | NAP Doublecross

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  3. #2
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    Good info.

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  5. #3

    how and why

    I do not know how it survived the saltwater test as the PCB (main board) you would think would be in the water as well. However, it did survive the entire test up to shot 99.
    Military grade UV cure epoxy, which make all IC component water tight at 100C for up to 2 hours. Normal moisture, blood, water, saltwater are a non-issue with this design! If all else fail, the ground fault sub system will kick in to ensure the light will light for you, no matter what.
    Dorge O Huang Hidden Content Tel: (815) 780-1695 C: (708) 267-0474
    Operating Manager of Firenock LLC, The Most Advanced Lighted Nock® Company • URL: Hidden Content • Web Store: Hidden Content
    Maker of Firenock®, Aerovane®, Aerovane® Jig, AeroRest™, APS, PAPS, AeroPoint™ with FACT™(Firenock Arrow Concentric Technology), AeroInsert™, ACT, CTI, AeroOutsert™, AeroBolt™, AeroBushing™, AeroConcept™, AeroBowString Jig, Traumahawk™, Dagger™, and Hydro® systems.

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  7. #4
    Join Date
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    great test, I had not experimented with the salt water test up to this point. I also didnt know the lumenok was waterproof at all.

  8. #5

    It is not saltwater proof

    Quote Originally Posted by ventilator44 View Post
    great test, I had not experimented with the salt water test up to this point. I also didn't know the lumenok was waterproof at all.
    It is not, that is why it cannot be shut off whenever it got submerged in saltwater; the ions from the salt and water provided a conduit for the 2 wires to connect and complete the circuit as it cannot be shut off in the test. Simple system are not meant to deal with extreme situations, now think what happen when it is blood soaked Blood is more conductive and corrosive than saltwater as it is full of iron(Fe) ions and plasma
    Dorge O Huang Hidden Content Tel: (815) 780-1695 C: (708) 267-0474
    Operating Manager of Firenock LLC, The Most Advanced Lighted Nock® Company • URL: Hidden Content • Web Store: Hidden Content
    Maker of Firenock®, Aerovane®, Aerovane® Jig, AeroRest™, APS, PAPS, AeroPoint™ with FACT™(Firenock Arrow Concentric Technology), AeroInsert™, ACT, CTI, AeroOutsert™, AeroBolt™, AeroBushing™, AeroConcept™, AeroBowString Jig, Traumahawk™, Dagger™, and Hydro® systems.

  9. #6
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    I thought about that as well...the Lumenock was actually the worst in this test as even in traditional water that was not pure it would turn on. The Nockturnal didn't turn on in the water but instead turned on after the salt test...I still have not figured that out...unless the hardened salt somehow caused a short.

    The Firenock never turned on in any of the conditions and in fact now that I have cleaned off the salt it looks and acts brand new. It did a better job than my field points did...I got a little bit of rust on my field points from just being in city water. :P
    "Smooth Death" 06 Bowtech Tribute | TR Revolution | Trophy Ridge React One .010 | 11" KTech 2 Rod | HT-1 .300 .001 495gr w/ FOB | Rage Hypodermic
    "Silent Death" 14 Bear Anarchy HC 28.5/71 | QAD HDX | Trophy Ridge React | TR 9" Stabilizer | Muddy Impact 350 | NAP Doublecross

  10. #7

    Close and open system difference

    Quote Originally Posted by ManOfKnight View Post
    The Nockturnal didn't turn on in the water but instead turned on after the salt test...I still have not figured that out...unless the hardened salt somehow caused a short.
    For the price and the design, Nocturnal is a more reliable system if compare with Lumenok. That's said, it is still an open system, (the main components are expose to the elements). For fare weather use, it is great. As the design is base on the Korean Lighted Bobber, the on and off is 100% base on that PTE cap able to separate the positive end from the LED; the negative end are welded together. As salt, blood, moisture get it, the cap will be deformed and/or the crystal/dirt will accumulate. The rest is history.

    There is simple way to do things and there is reliable way to do it too. The best example is car transmission.

    EVERY ONE knows that the manual is simple, fail proof, easier to fix, cheaper, easier to built. Now look around, beside the auto enthusiast very seldom do you see one in a vehicle. KISS is great for people who want to tinker, but for those like myself, who just want something that WORKS EVERY TIME without the work; KISS is not for me. Complex design with simple usage interface is KING. Another good example of this is Apple computer's OS compare to Linux, should I say more!

    Last for those who like to understand more, here is the real design criteria. Lighted nock is not a lighted on a nock design, but a 200mph collision control with a LED that would survive shot after shot!
    Dorge O Huang Hidden Content Tel: (815) 780-1695 C: (708) 267-0474
    Operating Manager of Firenock LLC, The Most Advanced Lighted Nock® Company • URL: Hidden Content • Web Store: Hidden Content
    Maker of Firenock®, Aerovane®, Aerovane® Jig, AeroRest™, APS, PAPS, AeroPoint™ with FACT™(Firenock Arrow Concentric Technology), AeroInsert™, ACT, CTI, AeroOutsert™, AeroBolt™, AeroBushing™, AeroConcept™, AeroBowString Jig, Traumahawk™, Dagger™, and Hydro® systems.

  11. #8
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    I have been shooting my arrows through my buddy's bow, as mine is at Carter's Archery being "Crackerized" at the moment, and I am happy to report the Firenock is still going. I lost count as to how many shots are on this nock but I have to be around 300 by now and it is still working like the first time I shot it.
    "Smooth Death" 06 Bowtech Tribute | TR Revolution | Trophy Ridge React One .010 | 11" KTech 2 Rod | HT-1 .300 .001 495gr w/ FOB | Rage Hypodermic
    "Silent Death" 14 Bear Anarchy HC 28.5/71 | QAD HDX | Trophy Ridge React | TR 9" Stabilizer | Muddy Impact 350 | NAP Doublecross

  12. #9
    ManOfKnight Thanks for all the work and testing you did helps in deciding which nock to go with.

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