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Thread: Broadhead tuning

  1. #1
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    Broadhead tuning

    I have been having a heck of a time getting my slick tricks to hit with my field points. Last year I shot 125 standard slick tricks out of my switchback. Walkback tuned with broadhead and they flew fine but would not hit where my field points would. So just set the bow up for broadheads and hunted. Worked fine just never shot field points out of bow during hunting season. So this year I thought i would try them again. So I got some 100 gr mag. for my Maxxis. At 20 yards every thing is fine both field points and broad heads hit bulls eye. But when I start to walk back my field points are right plus my broad heads hit higher as I walk back . 2" high at 30 and 40 yards with broad head. I have messed with this thing for 3 days now. I have moved my rest all over the place. So I have now just walkback tuned bow with field points and think I will buy some mechanicals. I really like to shoot thoughout hunting season, so having broadheads and field points hit the same place is kind of a big deal.

    Also this is the second time I have bought 2 packs of slick trick and 1 broadhead doesn't fly the same as the rest of them. 2 years in a row. Last year 1 of 6 hit diffrent and now this year same thing 1 out of 6 doesn't have same poi.

    Dino
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  2. #2
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    Are you sure you're shooting the right spine?

  3. #3
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    About the 1 in 6 being flyers, I dont know. slick tricks have been really consistent for me. Do you spin your arrows and make sure everything is square?

  4. #4
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    I thought about that but feel I am close. 62# 29" dl arrows cut 28" 100gr points spine 250.
    Dino
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  5. #5
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    What arrow are you shooting? I'm thinking that 250 probably indicates a .400 spine, which should be right for your set up. I'm sure more knowledgable people will chime in with advice.

  6. #6
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    I am shooting redhead carbon maxx 2 hunters 250 spine.
    Dino
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  7. #7
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    I just bh'd tuned a bow yesterday. The chart (everyone of them) told me a 400spine. It hit low and to the left. I tried a .340spine and dead on at 60yds. I tune all my customers bow with the slick tricks. Your bow is not in tune if you cannot get the fp and bh to hit the same place. Keep picking you will get it. But remember to only move one thing at a time, and if the group opens more you went the wrong way! lol
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  8. #8
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    with the 250 you would be over spine and would agree with the above posts that you haven't quite got a perfect tune yet

  9. #9
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    I might try turning my bow down this evening and trying again. Like I said I was weird for it to be on at 20 but then get all out of whack as I move further back.
    Dino
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  10. #10
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    Try paper tuning your bow to get a perfect bullet hole.

  11. #11
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    Maybe I will give it a try. Never been much on paper tuning. I have always just walkback tuned, but at this point I am up for anything.
    Dino
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by superdean00 View Post
    I might try turning my bow down this evening and trying again. Like I said I was weird for it to be on at 20 but then get all out of whack as I move further back.
    Yeah try turing your weight down a few lbs. that should help you out. As far as being on at 20 and out of whack the further back you go thats what will happen. If your bow is out of tune or your arrows arent spined properly you will see/notice a difference the further back you get from the target.

  13. #13
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    After seating here thinking it has to be a spine problem.
    If I can get broadheads and field points to hit the same at 20 it should be the same all the way back . maybe a small tweek at 40 because may 20 yards wasn't far enough to see the small problem, but not 3 or 4 inchs difference. Beacuse if its on at 40 it throws my 20 back off.
    I posted a thread in the arrow section hoping someone will run my arrows for me. Plus a buddy is going to drop off a dozen 350 spined arrows so I can try them tonight.
    Dino
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  14. #14
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    I'm no "GURU", but it sounds as though you're just a little off on center shot and nock height. Assuming that your rig is in tune and to spec's. I know whatever your bow is not doing perfectly the broad heads will magnify it beyond what you see with field points. I would also want to rule out fletching contact also before you make a bunch of adjustments. I will normally papertest only to set nock height. Then it's on to walkback and group tuning. JMO

  15. #15
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    If you shoot thru paper you can get your nock point dialed in, you can't do that with walkback tuning. In my opinion you have to be a excellant shot at 40-50yds to make walkback tuning work, I am not doubting your shooting at all, just saying I know for myself that I would not trust setting my centershot with walkback tuning because of ability. That is why I use paper tuning. I have always had luck getting a perfect bullet hole and then having bh's and fp's hit together out to 40-50yds.

  16. #16
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    Its actually common to be hitting at 20 yds and not further back. If the bow is out of tune the further back you go the more off it will be. If the rest center id off it will not show much at 20 yds but it sure will at 50 yards....

  17. #17
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    thats why i am confused. I can get it to hit the same at 40 yards but not at 20.

    I started at 20 good to go. walk back to 40. Not so much. Get it good at 40, then walk back up to 20 and its off again.
    Dino
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  18. #18
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    I'm always a fan of alittle stiffer spine. I also like more foc, I think you get better broadhead flight. Why did you drop down to 100grn broadheads? You should shoot through paper from 5feet to 40yds and that will tell you what your arrow is doing. If you dont have enough foc the back of the arrow will fishtail and that will make your broadhead shoot bad past 30 yrds. This is only my opinion and works for me well. As for 1 out of six shooting bad, you should spin test all your broadheads to make sure there is no manufacture defects.
    It's all about becoming the arrow and letting the forest ninja out!!

  19. #19
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    I dropped down because my Maxxis shoots a WWHHOOLLEE lot faster than my switchback. Switchback was overspined (125 gr) and maxxis (100 gr) is underspined.
    Dino
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  20. #20
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    Sounds like a spine issue to me I think 250 at 28" is to stiff...340 or 350 should be right...I'm shooting 29" 340 bemans at 68#...Good Luck let us know how you make out.

  21. #21
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    Let me share what i"ve learned

    Quote Originally Posted by superdean00 View Post
    thats why i am confused. I can get it to hit the same at 40 yards but not at 20.

    I started at 20 good to go. walk back to 40. Not so much. Get it good at 40, then walk back up to 20 and its off again.
    DISCLAIMER: THIS IS JUST MY EXPERIENCE...

    I have walkback tuned for years with Hoyts, BTs, Mathews and Now Elite. I won't do this again. Here's why.

    You take a perfectly tuned bow...Set Center shot, check clearance, paper tune to get bullet hoes. Shoot arrows that are squared, inserts that are squared, buy "spin tested broadhead" (why I love G5 and Magnus)

    Now you take a bow that is shooting a "properly charted for spine arrow" that is shooting bullets holes. French tune to ensure center shot.

    Screw on broadheads and spin test..You still find you're 3 inches off impact at 20 yards. Now you take this perfectly tuned bow out of tune to get the broadheads to fly back to the direction of the field points. This is great for the distance you are going to shoot!

    However...I shoot to 60 yards. Think of it this way. You move your rest to the left to get the arrows to shoot the same. Now what's going to happen at 60 yards. - Too much to the left so now you move the rest back slightly and repeat process. The arrows are always going to track in different directions and heights.

    If a shooter is capable and happy with 4 in groups this may be fine. But I'm not happy with this accuracy.

    I'm shoot T3s this year which have tuned great for me with feathers and impact identical out of both my bows out to 60 yrds.

    For moose or elk I'd shoot my Buzzcuts and simply paper tune and move my sight to only shoot those broadheads for the larger game.
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  22. #22
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    Update,

    Last night I changed my nocking point a little bit and checked center shot. I also changed to nocked fletching out instead of up. Both broadheads and field points shot great out to 30 yards, then at 40 the broadhead arrow would miss 3 inches right. Didn't mess with poundage cause I really dont want to turn my bow down, Thats why I buy 60# bows, so I can shoot them comfortably with limbs bottomed out.

    It must just be me I can not get slick tricks to fly good. I have shot G5 heads before with no problem. These seem to be the only ones kicking my butt. I was stacking arrows at 40 yards last night with field points. Like 1 1/2 groups. So center shot must be close. I am going to try a heavier spined arrow and if that doesn't work I will just shoot the Teakans I have.
    Dino
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by superdean00 View Post
    Update,

    Last night I changed my nocking point a little bit and checked center shot. I also changed to nocked fletching out instead of up. Both broadheads and field points shot great out to 30 yards, then at 40 the broadhead arrow would miss 3 inches right. Didn't mess with poundage cause I really dont want to turn my bow down, Thats why I buy 60# bows, so I can shoot them comfortably with limbs bottomed out.

    It must just be me I can not get slick tricks to fly good. I have shot G5 heads before with no problem. These seem to be the only ones kicking my butt. I was stacking arrows at 40 yards last night with field points. Like 1 1/2 groups. So center shot must be close. I am going to try a heavier spined arrow and if that doesn't work I will just shoot the Teakans I have.
    If you're referring to Strikers and/or Montecs , I am very surprised the ST's wont fly good! They are an easy bh to get to fly good. Good luck to ya
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  24. #24
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    Without having a paper tune result, this may be the answer. Lots of guys change everything in the world...even go buy new arrows!!!....before they will move their D-loop or other nock point. Shoot the bow through paper and you'll know by the tear if the nock point is set properly, and your rest settings, too.

    Also, use a G5 Arrow Squaring Device to square your arrow shafts, and your inserts (after installing in the squared shafts). Always use a spin detector (Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector) to cull less than straight shafts. Something as simple as that could cause the 1 in 6 issue....not the heads. Probably there with your target points, too, but less noticeable. Target points are more forgiving of those imperfections than ANY broadhead.

    EDIT: I see you paper tuned for some improvement. Good, but it worries me when you say "at 40 the broadhead arrow would miss 3 inches right" instead of saying "all the broadhead arrows missed 3" right." You need to shoot more than one broadhead to eliminate alot of variables in shafts, head alignment, and shooter error. I shoot at least 3 broadhead arrows at different target spots (to avoid arrow damage) and figure group size and center from those impacts. If all fly the same way, it's the broadhead arrow combo....if only one flys oddly, you have your answer. Number your arrows to be sure which one is the culprit. Or. YOU may be the culprit...tensing some when shooting the one broadhead, changing your grip or choking it. Just sayin'....

    Finally, when you assemble arrows, use a G5 Arrow Squaring Device to square arrow shafts, and then to square inserts once installed. Check broadhead alignment with a Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector, or similar device, to make sure you have the best alignment and straightes arrow shafts possible before you start tuning. I know all this is a PITA, but so woth it. Once tuned, your shooting confidence will be through the roof, and you can't buy that with money. Good luck.

  25. #25
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    I would check thru paper again and you probably have a left tear going on. To fix the left tear, move your rest to the right.

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