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Thread: .300 spine vs .340 spine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    215

    .300 spine vs .340 spine

    Here we go...couple of questions

    1) I have 3 hoyt bows that are 35" ATA (AlphaMax 35, Maxxis 35, and Carbon Matrix)
    I really need some help here. Over the past 2 years, I have purchased and fletched several dozen arrows trying to get the correct spine. PLEASE HELP!!!



    Draw is 30.5"
    70 lb limbs locked down

    Arrows are:
    28.75" Easton ACC 3-60 (340)
    29.50" Easton ACC 3-71 (300)
    29.00" Easton ACC Pro Hunter 340
    29.50" Easton ACC Pro Hunter 300
    28.60" Easton FMJ 340
    28.75" Carbon Express Aramid 350
    29.50" Easton Axis N Fused 300

    Maybe I'm the most anal of us all on here. Maybe I'm not as good as I think, but I can make these bows paper tune perfectly with these arrows, but I CANNOT, FOR THE LIFE OF ME, get the same POI with fixed blade broadheads. IS IT A SPINE PROBLEM? I have purchased the Archery Program, but I'm honestly not adept enough to figure this out. PLEASE HELP. OT2, TAP, whatever. I would prefer to shoot the carbon matrix, so please keep that in mind. Any help would be so appreciated. No pro shop around here will help me broadhead tune, and I feel that doing it alone is a bit over my head. I have shot daily for years, but I'm just not qualified to work on my bows.

    If this doesn't work, I'm going to start shooting mechanicals, and I would really prefer to avoid that.



    QUESTION #2: I love each of these bows in their own way, but I realize that having all three of these bows is a bit of overkill. I am planning to give one of them to my brother (not the Carbon Matrix). Question is...which one? I'm leaning toward the Maxxis 35 because I believe the AM35 has a little smoother draw. Fire away. Looking forward to opinions.
    Hoyt Carbon Matrix RKT


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    stationed in Biloxi, MS, from Minocqua, WI
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    3,460
    im in no way a professional when it comes to doing this, but my first question is what broadhead are you shooting? have you tried shooting other broadheads with the same issue?..ive heard of people trying different point weights and being successful, or walkback tuning which is moving the rest to chase the broadhead and close that gap up..if you havent tried different broadheads i would recommend trying a different broadhead and see if the head flies differently than what you have
    CM2(scw) USN NMCB 74
    2010 PSE omen 28/60, BG ascent 3 pin surge head, LD, anchor sight, cx piledriver hunter .350 w/ fobs,trufire edge 4 ,tightspot, muzzy
    Team Whack 'Em & Stack 'Em Hunting Staff **chief squaw stealer aka the resident bouncer ***

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    ILLINOIS
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    1,072
    What broadheads are you shooting?
    I started out with nothing and still have most of it left.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    22,721
    Need more info. When you say you can't get your BH's to hit with FP's.......what distance are we talking? What rest are you using? Where are your BH's in relation to your FP's? Have you exhausted all adjustment points on your rest? Do your arrows spin perfectly true with BH's? Still lots of things to check before blaming spine, especially since you've already got 340's and 300's pretty much covered. I'd guess that one of those should work for you spine wise. I'd look elsewhere. Maybe even fletching?

    I shoot 32" draw, so pretty much use 300's exclusively. But even at 32" draw and 70+ lbs, I can shoot bullet holes with 340's if I monkey with it enough. BH tuning and paper tuning are two worlds apart sometimes.

    Oh, and you're not the most anal of everyone here. If you were even close, you'd be able to do all your own bow work.
    2006 LH Bowtech Old Glory 70#, 32 1/2" draw, back to the Hostage rest, SH 7-pin Hunter, 500gr TR Crush 300 @ 285fps.
    2007 LH Bowtech Commander 60#, 32" draw, Limbdriver rest, BG 5-pin Flashpoint.
    2014 LH PSE Freak SP 70#, 32" draw, not set up yet.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Saskatchewan
    Posts
    172
    shoot longer vanes with helicle fletch.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    East central Minnesota
    Posts
    8,197
    Quote Originally Posted by 5MilesBack View Post
    Need more info. When you say you can't get your BH's to hit with FP's.......what distance are we talking? What rest are you using? Where are your BH's in relation to your FP's? Have you exhausted all adjustment points on your rest? Do your arrows spin perfectly true with BH's? Still lots of things to check before blaming spine, especially since you've already got 340's and 300's pretty much covered. I'd guess that one of those should work for you spine wise. I'd look elsewhere. Maybe even fletching?

    I shoot 32" draw, so pretty much use 300's exclusively. But even at 32" draw and 70+ lbs, I can shoot bullet holes with 340's if I monkey with it enough. BH tuning and paper tuning are two worlds apart sometimes.

    Oh, and you're not the most anal of everyone here. If you were even close, you'd be able to do all your own bow work.
    This is about what I would have written. You have about the best arrows money can buy in the appropriate spine. I wouldn't even mess with the 340's. They would probably work but stiff always works better for me, especially with broadheads. I would commit to the 300's and check all the other variables. Especially the biggest one, your grip and grip consistency.

    Your brother is a lucky guy...

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