October 25th, 2010, 10:07 PM
HHA Sight In Question 40 yard -vs- 60 yard
When reading the HHA instructions, it reads that when you sight in using the 20 and 40 yard method that you will only be accurate from the 20-40 yard range on the sight tape. Whereas using the 20 and 60 yard method, the entire range from 20-60 on the sight tape is accurate. Is that correct?
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October 25th, 2010, 10:11 PM
yes it should be close, I try to mark my own yardages and I will be when the judge comes in next week.
Team Whack 'Em & Stack 'Em Hunting Staff
Elite Z28 30/60
Chief Arrow Stick Out
October 25th, 2010, 10:22 PM
I used the 20 and 40 yard method and my 50 and 60 yard settings are dead on.
October 25th, 2010, 10:30 PM
Just take a blank sight tape and make your own yardages...as for your question, some bows for example, may shoot 285 fps. and another one at 300...while at closer distances you may not see much of a difference in drop, you will start to see it at longer ranges, especially with heavier arrows...
October 25th, 2010, 10:53 PM
I used the 40 yd method with my guardian and I'm good by the tape to 50
October 26th, 2010, 08:47 AM
The 20 / 60 yard testing is just supposed to be a more accurate method of selecting the right tape for your bow. 20 / 40 is there for folks that don't have a place to shoot 60yds or don't feel comfortable shooting that far. Either way the tape will work at all yardages or at least until you run out of adjustment on the sight.
October 26th, 2010, 08:58 AM
Save yourself the trouble and mark your yardage on a blank tape. Any time you make an adjustment to a peep or poundage , the dial tape will require a change. Pencil marks are just easier to correct, rather than pulling tapes and redo-ing the whole thing with tape sight -in.
October 26th, 2010, 01:34 PM
I'm like the others who use blank tape and make my own marks, ala old school pre couputers. The first time I marked a tape for my HHA, had a bit of trouble at the center of the pivot, where the gap needs to be a bit wider than nornal because of the slight "flatness" in the arc, just could'nt believe I needed a larger gap there. Also have never been comfortable with sighting 20 yds and then move back 40 yds for my next mark, your first time you have nothing to estimate with, just a guess, don't know about the rest of you, but I pay too much for my equipment for guessing.
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October 26th, 2010, 02:06 PM
Originally Posted by jack70707
October 26th, 2010, 02:28 PM
I cut them into individual pieces and then put them on as I sighted in!
October 26th, 2010, 02:46 PM
I sight in at both 20/60 & at 20/40 to compare results. So far I've noticed only a very slight difference. In my opinion, either way is more than adequate for hunting accuracy.
In regards to using blank tapes & marking your own yardage, I believe I'll be doing that the next time I have to re-sight. Just having to change to one's bow setup, i.e. DW change, arrow change, tuning, etc,etc, is enough reason to mark up your own tapes. You'll just have to "sneak up" on the yardage when sighting in to avoid a sight adjustment that could lose an arrow.
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2010 Elite GT500: 50&60lb, HHA DS-5500, QAD UltraRest HD Pro Series, VForce HV 400
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October 26th, 2010, 03:07 PM
My beef with the tapes is the light colored ink scale is hard to see at twilight, dark pencil/marker slashes so much easier to adjust to in the field.
October 26th, 2010, 04:22 PM
I messed around w/ the 40 and the 60. I had really tight groups at 40, like all arrows almost touching and probably a 4" at 60 yards.
With my GT500 I needed sight tape 27 with the 40 yard method and 29 with the 60 yard.
With my Z28 I needed sight tapes 34 with the 40 yard method and 44 with the 60 yard tape.
I put on the 27 and the 34 respectively and shot at 50. I was well within tolerances...same at 60. My 3d deer was dead. I did put the longer tapes on for hunting.
To me it looked like the shorter method biased my numbers lower a bit. As the yardage increase the numbers grew more with a slower bow/arrow combo.
Just my .02 but I think either method lands you well within tolerances
October 26th, 2010, 04:33 PM
I use these individual stickers.
Sold here. http://www.sight-master.com/p1.html
Just call them and they will ship a sheet of them. Just peel them off and put them at 10 yards intervals, no guessing.
Mathews Z7 Magnum & Mathews Drenalin LD
Gold Tip Velocity XT .300 arrows w/ Blazer Vanes
Slick Trick Magnum
HHA 5019 Single Pin Sight / Mathews Quiver
10" B Stinger Stabilizer
October 26th, 2010, 04:35 PM
I was also getting all worked up about the sight in tapes and being "dead on". Throw them yardage tapes out and just use the blank ones. I agree with the others who did the same thing.
2010 Hoyt Turbohawk, Fuse strings, stabalizer and quiver, Carbon Express, QAD rest, HHA sight, Rage 2 blade
October 26th, 2010, 04:40 PM
Same as above make your own tape. I tried and tried but could not get one to work from 20-60. I put a blank one on, dialed in each 20-60, then marked. Put next to all tapes and none matched. Go figure.
October 26th, 2010, 04:55 PM
Originally Posted by seuss79
could be your form? the arrow flying and it's drop is only effected by the resistance through air and gravity....both can be figured out by formula...
November 29th, 2010, 02:28 PM
Last weekend I tried to sight in my new HHA. I previously had never been able to shoot past 20yds and most of my practice is in my basement at 10yds. I tried the 40yd and got a 34 tape, and the 60yd gave me a 31 tape. I put a 32 tape on because I think I was a little more accurate shooting at 40yds. It seems pretty close to me, but I'm not really that accurate at longer distance. Heck I was really happy to hit the target every time and not lose arrows. Its amazing how much light that pin picks up, its like it glows in the dark.
November 29th, 2010, 04:07 PM
I did both set up routines per the instructions too see which one was more accurate, the 60yd worked out better, but I think I'll make my own marks, because when shooting 3-D I've noticed some guys peeking at my yardage setting
November 29th, 2010, 04:32 PM
On the HHA dial sights....
Originally Posted by jack70707
The tape does not have to be removed between peep changes etc. In the center of the dial, there is a small hole leading to an Allen screw, used to re index the dial. After moving peep, or whatever other change...shoot to find 20, lock the wheel using the small knob, then loosen the allen screw(center dial), while keeping the large dial from moving, once the screw is loose, the dial will spin freely. Align your 20 yard mark with the indicator, snug the screw tight again.
This counts for peep, rest/nock height etc. If you change draw weight, significantly or arrow weight, you may want a new tape.
I went through a few tapes myself before this dawned on me
March 8th, 2013, 04:43 PM
Will this allow you to reindex the entire dial so the "top" can be reset and the bottom lower? I.e. on my HHA DS 5019 I have my 20 yard measured at the 27 on the tape and 60 yard around the 69 where the dial is literally bottomed out and cannot go further. The wheel has a lot of wasted numbers above the 27 that it can go however I am already at the bottom brackets and the bottom of the infinity extension so I can't change that anywhere to make the 20 yard marker lower on the tape to extend my effective firing range past 60 yards.
Originally Posted by CutTheLoop