a href="http://www.lancasterarchery.com/archery-classic-register/#header">
Results 1 to 21 of 21

Thread: HHA Sight In Question 40 yard -vs- 60 yard

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    2,238

    HHA Sight In Question 40 yard -vs- 60 yard

    When reading the HHA instructions, it reads that when you sight in using the 20 and 40 yard method that you will only be accurate from the 20-40 yard range on the sight tape. Whereas using the 20 and 60 yard method, the entire range from 20-60 on the sight tape is accurate. Is that correct?

    Hunting Rig - Hoyt Carbon Element - QAD HDX - HHA DS-XL5519 - Carter Target 3 - Stokerized SS1 - Easton ACC - Slick Trick Magnums

    Bowfishing Rig - PSE Tidal Wave - Muzzy XD Reel - TJE Shoot Thru Reel Saver - Whisker Biscuit Bow Fishing Rest - AMS Bowfishing Arrows & Points


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    In your Treestand
    Posts
    18,100
    yes it should be close, I try to mark my own yardages and I will be when the judge comes in next week.
    Team Whack 'Em & Stack 'Em Hunting Staff
    Elite Z28 30/60
    Chief Arrow Stick Out

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    17
    I used the 20 and 40 yard method and my 50 and 60 yard settings are dead on.

  4. #4
    Just take a blank sight tape and make your own yardages...as for your question, some bows for example, may shoot 285 fps. and another one at 300...while at closer distances you may not see much of a difference in drop, you will start to see it at longer ranges, especially with heavier arrows...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi
    Posts
    1,303
    I used the 40 yd method with my guardian and I'm good by the tape to 50

  6. #6
    The 20 / 60 yard testing is just supposed to be a more accurate method of selecting the right tape for your bow. 20 / 40 is there for folks that don't have a place to shoot 60yds or don't feel comfortable shooting that far. Either way the tape will work at all yardages or at least until you run out of adjustment on the sight.

  7. #7
    Save yourself the trouble and mark your yardage on a blank tape. Any time you make an adjustment to a peep or poundage , the dial tape will require a change. Pencil marks are just easier to correct, rather than pulling tapes and redo-ing the whole thing with tape sight -in.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lane county, Oregon
    Posts
    703
    I'm like the others who use blank tape and make my own marks, ala old school pre couputers. The first time I marked a tape for my HHA, had a bit of trouble at the center of the pivot, where the gap needs to be a bit wider than nornal because of the slight "flatness" in the arc, just could'nt believe I needed a larger gap there. Also have never been comfortable with sighting 20 yds and then move back 40 yds for my next mark, your first time you have nothing to estimate with, just a guess, don't know about the rest of you, but I pay too much for my equipment for guessing.
    http://eastoutfitter.tripod.com/index.html
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C, shoot thru 63 lb Qiuktune 3000 HHA OL 5519 Beman ICS Hunter
    Martin 06 Slayer, Nitrous C shoot thru 55 lb Quiktune 3000, HHA OL 5519 2X, Easton A/C/C
    Martin 04 Cougar Elite, Nitrous C shoot thru 50 lb Quiktune 1000,

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by jack70707 View Post
    Save yourself the trouble and mark your yardage on a blank tape. Any time you make an adjustment to a peep or poundage , the dial tape will require a change. Pencil marks are just easier to correct, rather than pulling tapes and redo-ing the whole thing with tape sight -in.
    x 2

  10. #10
    I cut them into individual pieces and then put them on as I sighted in!

  11. #11
    I sight in at both 20/60 & at 20/40 to compare results. So far I've noticed only a very slight difference. In my opinion, either way is more than adequate for hunting accuracy.

    In regards to using blank tapes & marking your own yardage, I believe I'll be doing that the next time I have to re-sight. Just having to change to one's bow setup, i.e. DW change, arrow change, tuning, etc,etc, is enough reason to mark up your own tapes. You'll just have to "sneak up" on the yardage when sighting in to avoid a sight adjustment that could lose an arrow.

    Good post!
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not escape one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave
    2010 Elite GT500: 50&60lb, HHA DS-5500, QAD UltraRest HD Pro Series, VForce HV 400
    Hakuna Matata to all!

  12. #12
    My beef with the tapes is the light colored ink scale is hard to see at twilight, dark pencil/marker slashes so much easier to adjust to in the field.

  13. #13
    I messed around w/ the 40 and the 60. I had really tight groups at 40, like all arrows almost touching and probably a 4" at 60 yards.

    With my GT500 I needed sight tape 27 with the 40 yard method and 29 with the 60 yard.

    With my Z28 I needed sight tapes 34 with the 40 yard method and 44 with the 60 yard tape.

    I put on the 27 and the 34 respectively and shot at 50. I was well within tolerances...same at 60. My 3d deer was dead. I did put the longer tapes on for hunting.

    To me it looked like the shorter method biased my numbers lower a bit. As the yardage increase the numbers grew more with a slower bow/arrow combo.

    Just my .02 but I think either method lands you well within tolerances

  14. #14

    Bargain Bin Yardage Stickers

    I use these individual stickers.





    Sold here. http://www.sight-master.com/p1.html


    Just call them and they will ship a sheet of them. Just peel them off and put them at 10 yards intervals, no guessing.
    Mathews Z7 Magnum & Mathews Drenalin LD
    Gold Tip Velocity XT .300 arrows w/ Blazer Vanes
    Slick Trick Magnum
    HHA 5019 Single Pin Sight / Mathews Quiver
    10" B Stinger Stabilizer

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SE WISCONSIN
    Posts
    269
    I was also getting all worked up about the sight in tapes and being "dead on". Throw them yardage tapes out and just use the blank ones. I agree with the others who did the same thing.
    2010 Hoyt Turbohawk, Fuse strings, stabalizer and quiver, Carbon Express, QAD rest, HHA sight, Rage 2 blade

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Kankakee, Illinois
    Posts
    258
    Same as above make your own tape. I tried and tried but could not get one to work from 20-60. I put a blank one on, dialed in each 20-60, then marked. Put next to all tapes and none matched. Go figure.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by seuss79 View Post
    Same as above make your own tape. I tried and tried but could not get one to work from 20-60. I put a blank one on, dialed in each 20-60, then marked. Put next to all tapes and none matched. Go figure.

    could be your form? the arrow flying and it's drop is only effected by the resistance through air and gravity....both can be figured out by formula...

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    34
    Last weekend I tried to sight in my new HHA. I previously had never been able to shoot past 20yds and most of my practice is in my basement at 10yds. I tried the 40yd and got a 34 tape, and the 60yd gave me a 31 tape. I put a 32 tape on because I think I was a little more accurate shooting at 40yds. It seems pretty close to me, but I'm not really that accurate at longer distance. Heck I was really happy to hit the target every time and not lose arrows. Its amazing how much light that pin picks up, its like it glows in the dark.

    Ports

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Flowery Branch, Georgia
    Posts
    9,509
    I did both set up routines per the instructions too see which one was more accurate, the 60yd worked out better, but I think I'll make my own marks, because when shooting 3-D I've noticed some guys peeking at my yardage setting

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    THE Republic of Texas
    Posts
    6,464
    Quote Originally Posted by jack70707 View Post
    Save yourself the trouble and mark your yardage on a blank tape. Any time you make an adjustment to a peep or poundage , the dial tape will require a change. Pencil marks are just easier to correct, rather than pulling tapes and redo-ing the whole thing with tape sight -in.
    On the HHA dial sights....

    The tape does not have to be removed between peep changes etc. In the center of the dial, there is a small hole leading to an Allen screw, used to re index the dial. After moving peep, or whatever other change...shoot to find 20, lock the wheel using the small knob, then loosen the allen screw(center dial), while keeping the large dial from moving, once the screw is loose, the dial will spin freely. Align your 20 yard mark with the indicator, snug the screw tight again.

    This counts for peep, rest/nock height etc. If you change draw weight, significantly or arrow weight, you may want a new tape.

    I went through a few tapes myself before this dawned on me

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chesterfield, VA
    Posts
    475
    Quote Originally Posted by CutTheLoop View Post
    On the HHA dial sights....

    The tape does not have to be removed between peep changes etc. In the center of the dial, there is a small hole leading to an Allen screw, used to re index the dial. After moving peep, or whatever other change...shoot to find 20, lock the wheel using the small knob, then loosen the allen screw(center dial), while keeping the large dial from moving, once the screw is loose, the dial will spin freely. Align your 20 yard mark with the indicator, snug the screw tight again.

    This counts for peep, rest/nock height etc. If you change draw weight, significantly or arrow weight, you may want a new tape.

    I went through a few tapes myself before this dawned on me
    Will this allow you to reindex the entire dial so the "top" can be reset and the bottom lower? I.e. on my HHA DS 5019 I have my 20 yard measured at the 27 on the tape and 60 yard around the 69 where the dial is literally bottomed out and cannot go further. The wheel has a lot of wasted numbers above the 27 that it can go however I am already at the bottom brackets and the bottom of the infinity extension so I can't change that anywhere to make the 20 yard marker lower on the tape to extend my effective firing range past 60 yards.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •