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Thread: Old Ben Pearson BP-H52

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Texas
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    Old Ben Pearson BP-H52

    Hello. Noobie here. I have a BP-H52
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...1253330&page=1
    http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=358132&page=1

    I had a b-50 Dacron made and bought another from 3R, both 48". How uncommon is it that a 52" bow like this could need a 46" string? With the 48's, I have about a 6.5" brace height. Five inch feathers are right over the shelf. I have to do a lot of twisting to get the feathers about a half inch from the shelf, which gets them over an inch from the rest and side plate. The rest is elevated velcro with half a wooded dow and the side plate is calf hair done the same. The build out is above the pressure/low point in the grip.

    I noticed in one of the 2 links above the previous owner had a 47" string instead of a 48", and I wonder why. After twisting the you know what (too much imo) out of a 48" for the 5" feathers it's 46.5 on the bow, giving me a 7.5" brace height.

    Am I wrong in thinking the feathers need to be away from the rest/side plate? Is this bow really not for 5" feathers? That doesn't seem correct.

    Other than overtwisting and breaking/bow/person damage, is there any tuning issues with a lot of twisting? I read somewhere CCW twisting for a RH shoot could cause the arrow to hit the riser, which I was experiencing before building out the side plate. I was more consistent w/o twisting at the 6.5" brace height, w/ a Neet Pro arrow rest.

    It looks like the bow is cut a little past center and the string center. Seems the direction I twist changes it's position from left to right of center. Does that sound right? Remember, it's a lot of twisting. 25-35 twists.

    I read this is a hard bow to start on. Probably even more so with my 31" draw? It seems like I'm spinning my wheels with all this twisting. Either that, or this really is a hard bow to learn on. Or both? I've been using the bow tuning method at bowmaker.net.

    Arrows are easton aluminum gamegetters.
    2016's are 32"
    2117's are 33"
    100 and 125gr field points

    Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!
    Billy



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    southeast Pennsylvania
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    1,377
    The brace height is listed as 7 1/2 - 8 1/4" inches for your bow. You could try a shorter string. A longer, lighter bow would be much more beginner friendly. At 31", you're probably pulling more than fifty pounds, if it's the 45# bow in the link... Even if you're not a beginner, it's nice to be able to shoot for a couple hours comfortably.

    I have a different Pearson bow that has issues with 5 1/2" feathers (too long for my taste, not my arrows) at the lower end of that bow's brace height range. It depends where the feathers were fletched, too. I like them an inch or so away from the nock.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
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    Where'd you find the the brace height listed? Thanks for the info! I've searched and searched and can't find much info.
    I'm going to try a shorter string. Thanks!
    Feels like I'm approaching 55#. I have a 60# compound, and you are right. This 50#+ is rough, longterm.
    I almost fletched with 4", and kinda wish I had. Will probably try some soon. I have some 4" flu flu's I haven't used yet.
    My feathers are 3/4" from the nock.

    I shot for a few hours today. Got some good groupings with both bare and fletched together at 20yds a few times at first, but got tired quick and was all over the place. I think it's just too much at start. Does it get 'easier' with time and practice? Did with my compound. I inherited this bow from my father-in-law so while I want to try a longbow or a longer recurve someday, this one is not going anywhere.

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    southeast Pennsylvania
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    It gets easier, but fifty pounds is fifty pounds. I shoot a 38 pound bow (drawn past its rated weight) regularly and even that can feel like work after a while. I feel like I need time to hold at anchor to aim... it's hard enough as it is without unnecessary weight. Some people barely get to anchor and let loose, I never could shoot like that.

    I believe this was copied from a site called "archery archives" that disappeared a month or two ago; it's not close to complete but it's better than nothing:

    http://pearsonbow.stormloader.com/pearson.html

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hancock County,Indiana
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    brace hgt for a 52" pearson will be 8-81/2 inches you will need a 47" string, dacron only

    at 31" draw its stacking and therefore gonna be hard to shoot accurately. When the string has so many twists it wants to curl up and kink itself when not under pressure its over twisted

  6. #6
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    Mar 2011
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    Texas
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    Thanks!
    If with all the twists I have a 7.5" brace hgt, and the string measures 46.5", wouldn't I need a 46" string?

    I read somewhere about tying knots to shorten the string. That didn't sound right. Seems like that could effect performance or something. I'm going to get a new string, I'm just thinking in terms or emergency back up (better than nothing) etc....or is that dangerous?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Hancock County,Indiana
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    a 46 should work then. knots in rope,strings etc are weak spots. you do not want knots in your string. Shoot what ya got, its in the neigborhood, until you get a new string

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    USA
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    Here are the copied Ben Pearson factory specs for your bow as originally indicated by the Ben Pearson factory.

    BP-H52, 1969, No. 7329, 52 inches Recurve

    40 to 65 lb.

    Black Pearsonite glass

    Pistol grip

    Zebrawood handle, with white glass overlay on back

    7 1/2 to 8 1/4 inch brace height

    4 inch sight window

    Original Cost: $ 65

    As for string length vs. bow length using Dacron, which you have to use for that bow, if I follow the suggested length of 4" shorter than the bow length, when I pre-stretch my strings (endless loop) or they creep after shooting, they commonly end up nearly 1" longer and require too many twists to obtain the brace-heights I like/use.

    I have my strings made 1" shorter than recommended if the maker does not pre-stretch, and then if I don't want to shoot in a permanent stretch (creep), I put the string under a 75# load and allow the string to remain under the load for a day or two. Some who pre-stretch their strings use as high as a 100#-200# load but just for 20-30 minutes.

    If you want/need to use multiple twists to reach your brace, use a "Flemish" string. Talk to some of the "Flemish" users here, but I have read where Flemish users use as high as 18 twists and more with no problems. That's a lot of twisting.

    Do not tie knots in the string. Whomever recommended doing so is a "shade tree" mechanic.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
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    thank you all very much!

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