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Thread: Nocking point, arrow position relative to the shelf when properly set.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    2,268

    Nocking point, arrow position relative to the shelf when properly set.

    Posted this on the FITA forum and got no responses. Trying here. I shoot barebow recurve.



    Will a properly set nocking point result in an arrow that is parallel to the shelf of the bow, a bit tail high or a bit tail low? Does it make a difference whether you are shooting three under or split finger (or stringwalking if there are any barebow shooters out there)? I explain below why I am asking this question.

    I recently changed the string on my bow. I set the nocking point the same as the original string. (The string was built to the specs of the original by the same string maker.) I noticed that with the new string my barebow sight point had gotten significantly worse, I went from shelf on the bottom of the target to shelf on the upper blue at 70 meters. I had my bow laser checked, the tiller set, and paper and bareshaft tuned. After finishing, I could still see that my nocking point was causing my arrow to be tail high relative to the shelf. Finally, I just took my bow square and measured from the front and back of the shelf and set my nocking point to where my arrow was parallel to the shelf. My sight points returned to normal. I have not bareshafted with this setup yet but the bow shot fine at 70 meters.
    Barebow Recurve


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    1,566
    If you are shooting consistent groups at 70 meters with a stick and string - you are way above my level.

    1. Did you check the brace height in the bow with the old string?
    2. Did you reinstall old string to see if you point of aim was still the same?
    3. Did you measure the bows draw weight at 28" with both strings?

    Just curious.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Vancouver,WA
    Posts
    1,113
    I do a lot of bareshaft tuning, though with a compound bow, using it to help find the optimum spine, which also matches my long distance tuning groups, so I would think that if you're shooting for best flight bareshaft through paper at point blank, getting virtually a bullet hole and then also getting good flight at least 10 yds down range, then you would want to use that tune...on compounds the nock is higher to initiate the arrow paradox in a more up and down fashion, whereas finger shooters, regardless of bow type, initiate a horizontal paradox or flexing due to the way the string rolls off your fingers as you release, spining for clearance is critical for the tail of the shaft to be flexing around the bow as it passes, so the bareshaft through paper generally won't tear well for you finger guys, as opposed to a compound release shooter where the spines need to be much stiffer with way less flexing of the shaft...as far as nock height, set it where you are getting the best groups (vertically) and let it be where it needs to be, don't just go by where the old sight was hitting, the old string may not have been optimum either. Any change in how you place your fingers, the number of fingers you use, and string walking will all change the arrow impact, as it initially changes the way the limbs are pulling at full draw/anchor and affects the pressure angle of your hand on the grip as well...

    If the arrow nock is more than 1/4" above level, I'd spend some more time checking things, but zero to that is fine if it is tuning well...below is generally not optimum as during the cycling of the arrow as the string moves forward, a slight nock high setting puts a little downward pressure on the rest which helps guide the arrow shaft more consistently through the lauch cycle, as opposed to a shaft bouncing on the rest, or being pushed up off the rest by a low or rising nock travel...

    Often times, the nock height above flat is determined by your bow grip pressure, a high wrist shooter vs a low wrist/heeler shooter will get different reactions out of the bow/arrow and thus a different tune...change anything, and you change everything...on a bow...hope that gives you some food for thought. Another thing you can do with paper tuning, is tune the bow or the arrow spine, until you get clean fletched shaft tears as close as possible, meaning that if your arrow is so out of tune that it takes 30 yds for it to clean up and fly straight vs a better tune where it is cleaned up in 5 yds, those will have dramatically different groups and flight characteristics.

    Keep at it, and good shooting. Ryan
    I hate being wrong more than I like being right...


    Elite Pure, Conquest-4, DXT, W&W ProAccent Recurve
    Truspot scopes, Black Eagle Deep Impacts, Easton X10 Protours, X10, Fatboy, Axis & FMJ

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