June 13th, 2011, 01:04 AM
What does this wear on arrow rest indicate?
Ive been shooting with my bow alot lately since school been out and ive noticed that the rest that im shooting off of is wearing in a weird place. In the picture below you can see that the outside of the rest itself is wearing from the outside in. I'm using the felt pads that are used on the bottom of furniture and don't know if that would be the problem. The only other problem that I can see would be the arrow itself and a spine issue that would cause it to deflect back into the bow after being release causing the wear from the outside in. Please let me know what you think it could be and how I could fix it.
June 13th, 2011, 01:20 AM
Likely a too stiff spined arrow and possibly (also) your string nock height is too low.
Another thing you need to check is how your arrow is centered. The arrow should be 1/2 the diameter of the shaft to the tip of the shaft being just outboard of the string. The thickness of your strike plate on that bow appears to be much too thick, which would center your shaft way too far outboard.
You shooting feather fletch or vinyl vanes?
June 13th, 2011, 01:21 AM
Just as a note, this same type of wear occurred with the bow when I was using bushy velcro as the arrow rest so that can be ruled out. Also im shooting feathers, when I had the velcro rest in place I used it was the strike plate so it was much thinner and I had that same type of wear.
June 13th, 2011, 01:24 AM
June 13th, 2011, 01:26 AM
June 13th, 2011, 01:29 AM
I can never find a firm answer as to whether the Sage is cut to or cut past center. What size (diameter) of shaft are you shooting?
June 13th, 2011, 01:32 AM
Its funny, I believe we have had this conversation before. I think that the last time we talked we determined that it was cut past center. With it being a cut past center bow what does that mean in terms of how thick the strike plate should be?
June 13th, 2011, 01:47 AM
I shooting Beman ICS Bowhunter arrows 500 spine - 125grain points with 50 grain brass insert - full lenght
June 13th, 2011, 01:56 AM
If it is amply cut past center, you will be able to adjust for alignment by strike pad thickness, pressure button, or a combo strike plate and rest that can adjust horizontally.
With it being a cut past center bow what does that mean in terms of how thick the strike plate should be?
If the riser is cut 1/8" past or less, it is likely you will be restricted to aligning the arrow by the diameter of the shaft....which can be a PITA.
Find the center of your limb in the fade-out near the riser. Mark the center with a narrow visible line. Nock an arrow. Balance the bow so that you can step back and when aligning the string with the center mark on your limb look to see how far out or in your shaft tip is.
June 13th, 2011, 02:03 AM
Here is an rough illustration of how your shaft should appear when properly aligned. If you search the archives, I believe that at one time "Viper1" posted an actual pic of arrow alignment.
June 13th, 2011, 02:16 AM
I don't shoot carbons so I am not familiar with the various brands, but being a .500 I am going to take a wild assumption that your shaft may be a 5/16", which would be near equivalent to a 20XX O.D. aluminum... or close. Not a large diameter shaft, but if the Sage is not cut to center or cut that much past center, that thick strike plate could easily put the shaft too far outboard.
Beman ICS Bowhunter arrows 500 spine
June 13th, 2011, 02:22 AM
I tryed what you said and it appears with no strikeplate on the bow the arrow is perfectly align with the string and limbs looking at it from the back.
With the arrow aligned perfectly perpendicular with the bow itself, I need to shift it just outboard, correct? to get the spine to react
June 13th, 2011, 03:03 AM
Shaft had to be way outboard with the strike-plate you were using.
I need to shift it just outboard, correct? to get the spine to react
Now, using very thin strike-plate material, align the tip of the shaft just outboard of the string.
What is the draw-weight on the bow at your draw-length.
June 13th, 2011, 03:28 AM
Here is the arrow alignment pic that Viper1 put up a while back.
June 13th, 2011, 10:04 AM
I had shelf wear like that after replacing a string, raised my nock set up 1/8"...and have had no further problems.....
June 13th, 2011, 10:34 AM
The odds are WW's advice is correct, that the size of the strike plate is pushing the arrow so far off center that it's giving the arrow a stiff dynamic spine, and so not causing it to enough flex to clear the riser (wear on the EDGE of the shelf pad). To confirm that, you really need to do some formal tuning. If you're not sure how, go to www.bowmaker.net and drill down to the tuning page.
I may be over thinking this, but it seems like the wear pattern should be closer to the strike plate, see pic. You might be pinching the arrow and applying downward pressure on the rest. I've seen people actually bow the arrow downward at anchor.
I'd just go with a regular stick on rest and tune to taste.
“Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”
June 13th, 2011, 12:57 PM
My draw lenght is 27" so rought 43#
Originally Posted by WindWalker
June 13th, 2011, 01:22 PM
I believe it was determined to be 1/8" past center - probably about the distance of the cutout of wall material in the picture. Basically, a cut-to-center bow made to be cut-past by just that amount without cutting the entire wall past center to maintain some structural integrity of the riser. On a 9/32" arrow, it is 0.14" to center of arrow. Even at 1/8" past-center on the bow shelf, that 1/2 arrow width is still slightly more arrow width than the distance of the bow's cut. IOW, about where you need to be with nothing as a plate but the wood.
Originally Posted by 82ndArcher
How thick the strike plate finally is becomes a matter of tune to the arrow. About any furniture pad material or stick on rest is going to put you back to -0- and with some, much more than that. With that pad, I would think your arrow is sitting well outboard of the center - hard to say from the picture.
It could be as others suggested that you are sitting too far out for that spine of arrow. As stated in the other thread, I have tuned in that spine and specs from ~43 pounds, but that is with having the arrow just slightly outboard of the centerline (no pad, just thin material to tune). Any more than that, and a weaker spine or more point weight would be in order.
June 13th, 2011, 04:20 PM
Just a heads up! Aside of the strike-plate and alignment issues, there are likely other tuning and form issues that need to be corrected as others suspect and have stated. I first suspected a spine and nock height issue but latched on to the alignment and strike plate first as it was visually obvious that too was definitely problematic.
Once you have the strike-plate and alignment issue resolved, establish a proper string nock height and arrow nock fit...you shooting split or 3-under? Then you need to query the carbons shooters about your arrow setup. I am not a carbon shooter but am aware that carbons tend to run more to the stiff side of spine and vary from brand to brand and shaft type. I am suspicious of those .500's on a 43# recurve. If the carbon shooters say "too stiff," you can up the head weight.
PS: If your using 5" feather fletch; at 43# and that carbons apparently do not paradox as much as aluminum or wood, it may also help to change to a 4" feather. Keep in mind, weight on the rear dynamically stiffens the arrow spine.
June 13th, 2011, 04:56 PM
Thanks everyone who has replied, I re-did the rest and arrow plate this morning using velcro and made it to where the arrow is 1 diameter of itself outboard compared to the centershot of the bow. After this I did bareshaft tuning and determined that the arrow that im using is tuned for the bow. I shot from 10 up to 15 yards and the fletched and bare shafts were right next to each other, the bareshafts tending to be an inch lower than the fletched arrows. I shot approximately 40 shots and found that the wear on the rest was still occurring. I rotated the fletching on the arrow to where the cock feather was more pointed up then away from the bow and no more wear It still doesnt explain earlier why it was wearing from the outside in but it fixed itself somehow.
June 13th, 2011, 05:46 PM
When you rotated the cock fletch clockwise, that rotated the bottom hen fletch more to the outboard side of the shelf.
Being that adjustment has tentatively resolved the wearing of the outside edge of your rest tends to indicate that the timing of the shaft paradoxing was/is off and you were getting fletch contact with the bottom hen, and likely contact with the rear of the shaft...where most contact occurs. Yet, didn't you say that your fletch was not showing signs of "contact?" Is the very edge of either or both hens slightly "frizzed?"
What brace height you using?
June 13th, 2011, 05:49 PM
If you go to that link that Viper1 showed you, and read the bare shaft tuning part you can use the info provided to set the nock, i always have to look to see if low bare shafts are raise the nocking point or lower it, this bunch of guys that are here on this traditional site are great guys and really put the "Archers helping Archers" in AT, i enjoy reading threads like these and learn, learn, learn
Paramadness Bow Slings, Survival Bracelets, Binocular Straps, Key FOB's, Release Laynards, Custom Braiding Available,
B-50 Flemished Strings, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed.
"Bear TD A-Riser, Kodiak Hunter 45#, Super Magnum 50#, Kodiak Magnum 45#, Kodiak Super 47#, "
June 13th, 2011, 05:56 PM
Did the top hen previously show this?
June 13th, 2011, 06:07 PM
Wow! Good observation!
Originally Posted by WindWalker
June 13th, 2011, 06:35 PM
Thank you for the compliment, but you and most shooters would detect the wear. I just commented first.