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Thread: Can an arrow shaft be too stiff?

  1. #1

    Can an arrow shaft be too stiff?

    I know when they are too weak they noodle a lot, but what being too stiff, what are the down sides? I know that Randy Ulmer recommends shooting a stiff arrow.



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    yes

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  4. #4
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    You lose accuracy with be too stiff. Some say go to stiff other say to weak but me personally I go slightly under what the software programs say. Im supposed to be at a 350 and shoot a 400

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    You'll get different opinions on this.

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    I try to let the bow tell me through tuning, my gt 500 70lb likes 300 spine over a 350 cut @ 28", both spines shoot well but the 300 shoots tighter groups.
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    I have a EVO that requires a very stiff arrow.I know a guy that has the same bow and draw and he gets by with a lot lighter spined arrow. there are many varibles.

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  9. #9
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by FIMAKUK View Post
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.
    You might ought to get hold of all the arrows manufacturers and let them know so they can stop producing so many different spine arrrows.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FIMAKUK View Post
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.
    Of course not. Now why in the world have I spent so much time in my life trying to get the perfect spine arrows for my bows?

    Silly me.
    I cut my arrows twice and they're still too short.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FIMAKUK View Post
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.
    Maybe if you can't hit the target to start with.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIMAKUK View Post
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.
    Most I can do is dumb look this comment!
    Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and then beat you with experience!

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    Shooting a bareshaft will tell you in a hurry how much difference the stiffness makes.

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    Many will claim that an arrow that is too stiff will be more unforgiving. I think with most bows there is a range of spines that will "work". Why Ulmer recommends a stiff shaft is because, one it is safer to be on the stiff side then the weak, two you can not broadhead tune a bow shooting too weak of an arrow, much harder to get an arrow so stiff that it won't bh tune. For most hunting bows I don't think you'll see a ton of difference in accuracy between a 340 or a 300 spine, not saying a perfect spined arrow doesn't shoot better as I probably haven't played with enough arrows long enough to really know, but watching the pros shooting 2712s at all the indoor shoots and shooting GT xxx arrows at 3d I can't say for normal hunting ranges you would see much bad shooting too stiff. Now I don't shoot fita etc so I don't know how much spine would affect you at 70 plus yards, maybe more at that range.
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    I think you can be too stiff with lower poundage bows for sure. But my honest opinion is if your shooting 65# or up and no shorter than a 27" arrow there isnt an arrow out thats too stiff to shoot accuarately.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by WhitBri View Post
    Many will claim that an arrow that is too stiff will be more unforgiving. I think with most bows there is a range of spines that will "work". Why Ulmer recommends a stiff shaft is because, one it is safer to be on the stiff side then the weak, two you can not broadhead tune a bow shooting too weak of an arrow, much harder to get an arrow so stiff that it won't bh tune. For most hunting bows I don't think you'll see a ton of difference in accuracy between a 340 or a 300 spine, not saying a perfect spined arrow doesn't shoot better as I probably haven't played with enough arrows long enough to really know, but watching the pros shooting 2712s at all the indoor shoots and shooting GT xxx arrows at 3d I can't say for normal hunting ranges you would see much bad shooting too stiff. Now I don't shoot fita etc so I don't know how much spine would affect you at 70 plus yards, maybe more at that range.
    I agree with this ^^^^ arrow spine doesn't seem to be that big of an issue when shooting field points. but when shooting fixed broadheads, a stiffer arrow flies much better. also, when bareshaft tuning an over spined arrow it will tune much better, than a weak arrow...... hope this helps and God bless.........................
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    Ill also add this....I do believe that once your bow is tuned with the proper spined shaft that you can shoot a weaker spine accuratly as well. For example my destroyer 340 70# tunes perfect with a gold tip pro hunter 7595. First I tried the 5575's because I already had a dozen. No luck with that....wouldnt papertune,or bareshaft tune. However after tuning my bow to the 7595's i could also bareshaft tune the 5575's. Through paper i still had a small tear just because of flex though. My point is how sensitive your bow is to spine is also directly related to how well your bow is tuned in the first place.

  19. #19
    Too stiff of a spine takes longer to recover (fly straight) if the shot is torqued. If you have a very consistent amount of torque, your arrows will still group precisely. However, the arrows will fly with more drag and therefore have less kinetic energy and more noise.

    My suggestion is that you create and try different spines by varying tip weight. A lighter tip will create a higher effective spine. A heavier tip will create a weaker effective spine. The grouping difference will be more apparent at longer range (and dependent on your ability).

    My personal setup has too much spine. It shoots great, but not as good as before I cut 2" off my arrows (no overdraw). To correct this I need to use a heavier point or get new, longer arrows.

  20. #20
    I'll also clarify that a torqued arrow can be caused by bad hand position or incorrect arrow rest-to-string relationship (tune).

  21. #21
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    just wondering if your draw length is 28.5 and 70lbs and your shooting a 300 spine arrows would you be better off with 85 grain broad head or using a 100 gr would there be noticeable difference. and would the arrow flex less with 85gr head
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  22. #22
    dl is 28 and 60#'s, I'm trying to work up a light weight but high FOC arrow to maximize speed and penetration. My bow is very forgiving, but not very fast. Hence, looking to use .340 or .300 spine with 150 or 175 grain BH. I just want to make sure I am not too weak.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIMAKUK View Post
    Shot everything between 200 and 400 spine. It has no effect on accuracy. period.
    I know a lot of guys that can make that statement!!!!!

    There are a whole bunch of ways to shoot and arrow spine can be a real problem with some and not a big problem with other ways of shooting. If you are shooting fingers with either a recurve or compound proper spine has to be estabilished with the arrow are variation of the release will cause a lot of variation in left to right hits. Generally arrows that are too weak will strick right of the target and arrows that are too stiff will hit left. I shoot a lot of bare bow anymore and I have noticed this. You will also have a lot of trouble bullet holing a arrow if it is improperly spined with fingers.

    For release shooters you really don't have near the problems with a release. In generally, I think tuning is a big factor. The more you can get a linear nock travel with the bow, the less effect you will have with arrow spine problems.
    Last edited by Deezlin; November 15th, 2011 at 12:51 PM.
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    If a bow is set up properly, meaning getting vertical and horizontal nock travel minimized, and you shoot with a release then spine isn't a big issue at all. That's the truth, guys. But throw in some bad cam synch and cam lean and all that goes out the window in a hurry. I've got a '05 ProTEC set at 28'/56# that has tuned perfectly with shafts from .500 to .250 spine. But it's set up properly, which very few bows are.....shops NEVER go that far out of their way before sending you out the door.
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  25. #25
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    Just this week, I was playing around with some different spined arrows. I have a 32.5" DL and usually shot 300 spine as that was what was most available. They always shot well and BH tuned, though I had to work at it. OT2 says that I should be shooting a .230 spine arrow. I got some Kinetics in 200 spine this year to hunt with as they flew well and I like a heavier arrow. I have a new MR7 and had Kinetics in 300 spine and 200 spine. I was using bare shafts. At 90 degrees, I could get the 200 spine to produce a perfect bullet at 6' and 10' as well as hit the bullseye at 17 yards, same as my fletched shaft. When I shot the 300 spine Kinetic, I got a diagonal down tear. The only way to get rid of the tear was to raise the rest about 1/4", but it never grouped as well from 17 yds. Close but not touching like the 200 spine. So I guess that I will have to stick to the 200 spine. The VAP's are going to be produced in .250 spine this January, so I may try them too.
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