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Thread: Darton 1987 MX-30, manual or help?

  1. #1

    Darton 1987 MX-30, manual or help?

    Archers,

    G'day! New old guy here, just starting over. I was a fair shot when I was in school, and recently retired, I just got a "new" old compound bow from somebody's attic. I am a rank noob on this technology, and some help would be appreciated here. A manual (or a copy) for this bow would be great. Darton can't/won't help, there. I know I need to learn a lot, just to ask an intelligent question, but right now, I think I just need some basics, to start:



    Darton 1987 MX-30 (~45% relaxation)

    What is the pull (in pounds) for this bow?

    Darton said to get a B-50 bowstring (with end loops). Okay, but I see many different B-50 bowstrings (with following letters and numbers). I don't want Dyneema or other exotic string, just a decent 33" bowstring for practice. Can anybody recommend a good retailer?

    I have only the cams that came in the bow for now, and Darton has no spares available. How do I determine (in physical terms) the draw length of the bow that I have now? Being a rather normal six-foot (183cm) guy, what draw length should I have? How would I measure my personal "draw length?"

    The cams appear to have several pivot points available, which (I'd expect) would change the draw strength or draw length (or some other physical characteristic) of the bow. Any advice (or diagrams) concerning these optional pivot points would be appreciated.

    Thanks for any help,
    Redwing


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    4,601
    There may be many places where you can still get a dacron (B-50) string, but Lancaster Archery would be my suggestion. With the old steel cables with the teardrop ends, you don't want modern string material, as it can cause the ends of the cables to snap off and become high speed projectiles. The several pivots on the cams are most likely for draw length adjustment. I have had several Dartons, including a 45 MX which was from the late '80s, but have not seen an MX-30. Several pics of pro archers shooting on this forum to give you some idea of what it should look like. Best idea may be to go to a pro shop near you and ask for help.
    "It don't really matter what kinda bow you choose to shoot. Just as long as you like it, practice and become a good shot. It's all good." rt2bowhunter

    "Some feel that all should do as they do: this is questionable at best." sew

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE PA View Post
    There may be many places where you can still get a dacron (B-50) string, but Lancaster Archery would be my suggestion. With the old steel cables with the teardrop ends, you don't want modern string material, as it can cause the ends of the cables to snap off and become high speed projectiles. The several pivots on the cams are most likely for draw length adjustment. I have had several Dartons, including a 45 MX which was from the late '80s, but have not seen an MX-30. Several pics of pro archers shooting on this forum to give you some idea of what it should look like. Best idea may be to go to a pro shop near you and ask for help.
    Joe Pa,

    Thanks, that will get me started. I will contact Lancaster Archery for a bowstring. I appreciate the cautions on using Dacron bowstrings only, that is information that a new guy could only get here. I'm not happy with Darton, for omitting this safety information. I live in the boonies of Utah, and a pro shop is not easily available to me. The MX-30 appears in the 1987 Darton catalog, which can be seen on their web page.
    http://issuu.com/cteall/docs/1987-ca...owFlipBtn=true
    Still, I would need to know the pounds of pull, to get the correct bowstring. A small placard is on the bow, listing options to get various draw lengths, but I think I'd need an owner's manual, to figure out what it is telling me.
    Thanks for your help.
    Redwing

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    4,601
    Looking at the catalog was some help, but don't be too hard on Darton. That is a 19 yr. old bow you have. It is possible the the person you spoke to was a mere child when it was new. They have moved on several times from designs like that, and parts are just not around any more. Draw weight should be adjustable in a 15# range, so you probably can adjust that to suit you. The limb bolts (at the base of the limb) take a 3/16" allen wrench. It appears to me that the cam system is modular, so you will not be able to change the draw length unless, by some miracle, you come across modules for the bow. This, quite frankly, is not a bow that is too user friendly in today's archery market. On the other hand, if it fits you, you certainly can have some fun shooting it, and it would suffice for target or hunting if you choose to use it. If you search on here, you should be able to find some info on finding draw length with the wingspan method. (A "ballpark" guess would be about 28-29" if you are 6' tall.) Easiest thing to do is to draw the bow back and see if it feels right to you. Be sure you don't release the string without an arrow on it, or your desire to shoot this bow will literally come crashing down.
    "It don't really matter what kinda bow you choose to shoot. Just as long as you like it, practice and become a good shot. It's all good." rt2bowhunter

    "Some feel that all should do as they do: this is questionable at best." sew

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE PA View Post
    Looking at the catalog was some help, but don't be too hard on Darton. That is a 19 yr. old bow you have. It is possible the the person you spoke to was a mere child when it was new. They have moved on several times from designs like that, and parts are just not around any more. Draw weight should be adjustable in a 15# range, so you probably can adjust that to suit you. The limb bolts (at the base of the limb) take a 3/16" allen wrench. It appears to me that the cam system is modular, so you will not be able to change the draw length unless, by some miracle, you come across modules for the bow. This, quite frankly, is not a bow that is too user friendly in today's archery market. On the other hand, if it fits you, you certainly can have some fun shooting it, and it would suffice for target or hunting if you choose to use it. If you search on here, you should be able to find some info on finding draw length with the wingspan method. (A "ballpark" guess would be about 28-29" if you are 6' tall.) Easiest thing to do is to draw the bow back and see if it feels right to you. Be sure you don't release the string without an arrow on it, or your desire to shoot this bow will literally come crashing down.
    Joe Pa,

    Thanks for your interest. I guess I need to get to a real archery place, if I'm going to get this thing set right, or maybe ditch it. There's one shop about 85 miles from here, so I won't be there, this week.
    Thanks again.
    Redwing

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by redwing View Post
    Archers,

    G'day! New old guy here, just starting over. I was a fair shot when I was in school, and recently retired, I just got a "new" old compound bow from somebody's attic. I am a rank noob on this technology, and some help would be appreciated here. A manual (or a copy) for this bow would be great. Darton can't/won't help, there. I know I need to learn a lot, just to ask an intelligent question, but right now, I think I just need some basics, to start:

    Darton 1987 MX-30 (~45% relaxation)

    What is the pull (in pounds) for this bow?

    Darton said to get a B-50 bowstring (with end loops). Okay, but I see many different B-50 bowstrings (with following letters and numbers). I don't want Dyneema or other exotic string, just a decent 33" bowstring for practice. Can anybody recommend a good retailer?

    I have only the cams that came in the bow for now, and Darton has no spares available. How do I determine (in physical terms) the draw length of the bow that I have now? Being a rather normal six-foot (183cm) guy, what draw length should I have? How would I measure my personal "draw length?"

    The cams appear to have several pivot points available, which (I'd expect) would change the draw strength or draw length (or some other physical characteristic) of the bow. Any advice (or diagrams) concerning these optional pivot points would be appreciated.

    Thanks for any help,
    Redwing
    Darton did give you the correct info about the string as B-50 is Dacron. Only 1 bow company put fast-flite on a tear drop and that was PSE.
    Don't give up yet!! This bow should get you shooting and then you can decide how much you want to invest in a new bow or just stick with this one and have fun. Only thing I would worry about is it being stored in an attic as it can get pretty hot up there.
    Is there still a string on it??
    As for modules, let me see if I can get you a set for that bow. I gave away about 2000 sets of Darton mods to a fellow a few years back when I closed my first shop and I should see him tonite and find out if he still has them.
    It will say on the wheel if its an "A" base or "B" base , then just check the number on the module against the chart in their 1987 catalog to see what draw it is.
    Also if you could post a picture of each side of the cam some Darton bows had a second draw adjustment that could give or take away about an inch. The MX-30 was the first bow I sold when I opened my shop in 1987 but I don't remember if it had this other adjustment.
    Good Luck
    RIVERSIDE ARCHERY & RANGE
    SUMAVA RESORTS, IN

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bukfever2 View Post
    Darton did give you the correct info about the string as B-50 is Dacron. Don't give up yet!! This bow should get you shooting. Is there still a string on it??
    As for modules, let me see if I can get you a set for that bow.
    It will say on the wheel if its an "A" base or "B" base , then just check the number on the module against the chart in their 1987 catalog to see what draw it is.
    Also if you could post a picture of each side of the cam some Darton bows had a second draw adjustment that could give or take away about an inch. Good Luck
    Bukfever,
    That would be great! The cams have exactly these stampings:
    3R (60) BR
    (60) 3L BL
    Does the (60) mean anything? Hate to say, but this bow is a lot for me to draw right now, and a lighter draw would be helpful for getting started.
    Here are some pictures:
    http://user.xmission.com/~red/BRcam.jpg
    http://user.xmission.com/~red/BLcam.jpg
    http://user.xmission.com/~red/Darton1987catalog2.jpg
    (some browsers may balk at the "user" in these URLs; if so, just replace "user" with WWW in the address line.)
    I do not know what the catalog means by "#3 element" installed, but the stampings may be telling me that the bow is factory-stock, not modified.
    Are the unused pivot holes for adjusting the pull (in pounds), or the draw length of the bow? One pivot hole is in use, and two are just filled with a nut-and-bolt.
    There is fourth hole in the center of the cam, with an Allen screw, hiding inside the forks of the bow, which may be the cable anchor.
    There is not a choice of cable paths on the cam, as far as I can tell. The bow seems to operate as intended, but I have not shot it yet, due to the bad condition of the bowstring.
    Thanks for your interest. As you said, once I get in some practice, then I might know better what I want in a bow.
    Redwing

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,586
    My son picked up the box of modules (THANKS RICK FOR HANGING ON TO THEM FOR THE PAST 4 YEARS!!) and I'll get them from him in the morning. I'll see what I can find in there. I'm not sure if there are any in there but I thought there was.
    The 3r and 3l are the module numbers so I believe they are the factory elements installed which means that it is either 28 1/2" or 31". I thought that they had an A or B stamped on the cam but maybe not.
    You could safely short string that bow 1" if you would like and that would get rid of about 5# and 1" of draw length for you.
    It's hard to tell in the picture but make sure the e-clips are on all the axle pins.
    The holes filled with a nut and bolt are what holds the module in place and you are right that the allen screw is holding the cable in place.
    If you need a string for it I can send you one if I find a set of mods for you. If I don't have the mods for it then you can consider short stringing it 1".
    I'll know more tomorrow
    Good Luck
    RIVERSIDE ARCHERY & RANGE
    SUMAVA RESORTS, IN

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by bukfever2 View Post
    My son picked up the box of modules and I'll get them from him in the morning.
    The 3r and 3l are the module numbers so I believe they are the factory elements installed which means that it is either 28 1/2" or 31". I thought that they had an A or B stamped on the cam but maybe not.
    You could safely short string that bow 1" if you would like and that would get rid of about 5# and 1" of draw length for you.
    It's hard to tell in the picture but make sure the e-clips are on all the axle pins.
    If you need a string for it I can send you one if I find a set of mods for you. If I don't have the mods for it then you can consider short stringing it 1". I'll know more tomorrow.
    Good Luck
    Bukfever,
    Thanks, your efforts there are appreciated.
    Good eye, also; I am indeed missing the E-clips on the axle pins, which I had not noticed. I plan to make the long trek to an archery shop, so maybe that shop can supply them.
    I would not have guessed that short-stringing was an option, and again, thanks for that consideration.
    The letter B appears on each cam, as either BR or BL. Is that what I am looking for, or does that stamping have another meaning? A small paper placard on the bow indicates A as the shorter draw lengths, and B as the longer draw lengths (29" to 31").
    Any recommendation on target arrows (by brand or materials) would also be welcome. When last I shot an arrow, it was made of wood. :-)
    Thanks again,
    Redwing

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    4,601
    Sounds like you have the B cams. Draw length may be too long for you and it would also be more difficult to draw. If you have the 3/16 allen wrench, you can turn it counterclockwise 3 or 4 turns and see if that makes it easier to draw. Hope buckfever can get you set up. If it were me, I'd start off with inexpensive aluminum arrows like gamegetters. You don't want to shoot the bow with light carbons that are popular today. If you have B base cams, it is possible that you will not be able to shorten the draw enough for you, though I hope you can. I would not spend too much on arrows until you know the bow can be adjusted to be comfortable for you.
    "It don't really matter what kinda bow you choose to shoot. Just as long as you like it, practice and become a good shot. It's all good." rt2bowhunter

    "Some feel that all should do as they do: this is questionable at best." sew

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE PA View Post
    Sounds like you have the B cams. Draw length may be too long for you and it would also be more difficult to draw. If you have the 3/16 allen wrench, you can turn it counterclockwise 3 or 4 turns and see if that makes it easier to draw. Hope buckfever can get you set up. If it were me, I'd start off with inexpensive aluminum arrows like gamegetters. You don't want to shoot the bow with light carbons that are popular today. If you have B base cams, it is possible that you will not be able to shorten the draw enough for you, though I hope you can. I would not spend too much on arrows until you know the bow can be adjusted to be comfortable for you.
    Joe Pa,
    Thanks. I do have the correct Allen wrench, so I will be able to make use of your advice. The placard on the bow says the B cams will give me a draw length of between 29.5" and 32" in four possible settings, although I do not know how to make those adjustments just yet. Each cam seems to have only three pivot holes (and I am just assuming the other two "extra" holes are possible pivot points). I will make a trip to the archery shop, later this week, and see if they can shed any light here.
    Cheers,
    Redwing

  12. #12
    Archers,

    Not one myself for a long time, but hey, as soon as it stops snowing . . .

    An update: Made the long drive to the archery shop. Got a new bowstring, and E-clips on the cam axles. Scrounged the bargain bins and came up with an arrow rest and a trigger/release. Bought a US$20 bowsight, a forearm shield, and some aluminum arrows. The tech did the short-string job, and let out on the arm bolts a little. I like the pull much better now, and I know how to put it back to full power, when I get ready. Things are looking serious, at my place.

    I don't have a lot to say here yet, and it would be a while before that changes. I'll be lurking, though, for whatever bits that might add to my education.

    I just wanted to say thanks to Joe Pa and Bukfever for the help they offered. It was nice to work from good information, when I was at the archery shop. At least I did not appear to be totally clue-less there.

    Cheers
    Redwing

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