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Thread: DIY cultipacker/roller

  1. #1
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    DIY cultipacker/roller

    I've stolen many ideas off of this part of archerytalk that I better offer something up!

    Here is my homemade cultipacker/roller that cost under 85 bucks depending on what you can get your hands on for free.

    (1) 12" x 40" plastic perforated culvert $59.00 (this is where I spent my money, Menards wouldn't let me cut a piece so I had to buy the full stick)
    (7) bags of 60# concrete $25.00
    (1) 1-5/8" x .125" x 60" pipe FREE
    (1) 1-1/2" X .125" x 60" pipe FREE
    (2) 14.25" diameter x 1/2" plywood FREE
    (20) 1" screws FREE


    obviously the price of this unit can really fluctuate depending on what material you have on hand. If it wasn't for me having to buy a full stick of the culvert, my cost would of really dropped. I also determined the weight of this unit based off of the volume of the culvert in cubic inches minus the volume of the 1-5/8" pipe in cubic inches, then converting that into cubic feet and multiplying that by how much the concrete weighs per cubic foot. 144lbs(per calcs on bag) x 2.57 cubic feet = 370lbs



    This was really easy and anyone can do this in an afternoon, feel free to ask questions enjoy
    Attached Images Attached Images
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.


  2. #2
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    How do you connect it to your atv?

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  3. #3
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    So how long was the full stick of Covert for 59.00? Also seeing that the pipe is solid with the concrete, do you use bearings and a trailer type tongue to hook it up to your atv or tractor? I think a Simle trailor tongue made from 2" X 1/4" Angle iron with Pillow Block bearings would work realy well! Thanks for the post. Looks great and should do the job!!

  4. #4
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    the full stick of culvert was 20'-0"
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  5. #5
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    Clever,
    I think you are on to something .
    Keep us posted on how you finish .


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  6. #6
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    So my thoughts for finishing this packer is to put 1.25" O.D. pipe through the pipe I poured concrete around and create some sort of frame towards the four wheeler and meet in the middle about 30" in front of the packer (an "A" frame concept). At this point I'll bolt on a 1-7/8" coupler so I can easily hook it up to the hitch. Any ideas of what type of metal (i.e. square tubing, 1.5x1.5 angle etc.) would be greatly appreciated along with any frame design ideas. Tomorrow I'll design something in AutoCAD at work and upload it on here.
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  7. #7
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    Hello, I drew up a quick design. It is crude but I believe it would work out good. # 1 you do not want the distance only 30" From your Cultipacker. You would have to make very wide turns. I designed it to be 6 feet long and with the 40" Cultipacker you should be able to turn a lot sharper without jackknifing. I desined it out of 2" Square tubing 1/8" Thick. Take a look and see what you think!

  8. #8
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    I like it.......good job!!
    This is the most fun I've had since I started dating!!!!

  9. #9
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    I had to do some thinking on this because I felt something was missing?? Then it hit me, you have to have something to kep the grooves cleaned out of the packer. So I redesigned it with another 2" Brace towards the Packer and all you have to do is weld 5/8" Cold roll onto it going into your grooves. Leave 3/8" Clearance so it does not hit your Colvert anywhere! See if this makes sense!

  10. #10
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    I'm not sure I like the grooves at all. I'm thinking of trying this but using the smooth cardboard tubes they use for round footings.

    2" square tube is awfully hefty in my mind as well....but the design aspect looks good.
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  11. #11
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    Ricky 2feathers - the fingers to clean out the grooves is an awesome idea!! i'm gonna use it. The only thing i have a question about is on the right end of the 1.25" pipe where the 2" tubing touches this pipe, how are you stopping the pipe from going any farther left? I see the pin on the left end, i'm thinking your idea is to weld a 1/8" plate on the right end of that pipe? Thanks for this sweet design!!!
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  12. #12
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    Are you worried that a lot of seeds may go into the grooves on each pass?
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  13. #13
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    redruff i'm not sure which grooves you're talking about, seeds sticking to the soil that get clogged in the packer or falling into the grooves the packer will make in the soil?
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  14. #14
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    With the ridges and valleys, the ridges will pack and the valleys won't. If you broadcast seed, the seed that gets under a ridge will get packed and ones that get in the valley won't.

    Make sense? Or am I missing something?
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  15. #15
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    I understand, the sheer weight of this unit will depress the soil enough to also compact the valley portion of contact, but as soon as I use this unit I will report back and let everyone know just to be safe! thanks for the question!
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  16. #16
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    Do you have the plates cut where the tubes come together for the hitch? Or are you doing a ball hitch?
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  17. #17
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    I'm going to do a 1-7/8" coupler
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sconibowhntr View Post
    I'm going to do a 1-7/8" coupler
    Cool! If you were going to go flat plates and do a pin hitch I was going to make you an offer you couldn't refuse!
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  19. #19
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    Ok, On your 1.25" Pipe that goes through the 2" Pipe already cemented in. You weld a Plate on the right side of the 1.25" Pipe so it will not go through the whole in your frame. It then can go through your the 2" Square tubing and then into the 2" Pipe, all the way though the other 2" Square tube frame. Then a washer and pin put in it! Your 2" Pipe would be cut to fit inside the frame. Thats what would keep it from moving left or right. You could make this work several ways! You could weld plates onto the Frame that your 1.25" Pipe axle would go through and the 2" Pipe cut to fit inside those plates or just drill 1.25" Hole through your 2" Square tubing frame. This is one reason I went with the 2" Square tubing. So your axle (1.25") would be able to go through the 2" Square tubing and be strong enough for all the weight. Hope that makes sense! LOL

  20. #20
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    redruff what was going to be your offer? the design is still on paper
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky 2feathers View Post
    Ok, On your 1.25" Pipe that goes through the 2" Pipe already cemented in. You weld a Plate on the right side of the 1.25" Pipe so it will not go through the whole in your frame. It then can go through your the 2" Square tubing and then into the 2" Pipe, all the way though the other 2" Square tube frame. Then a washer and pin put in it! Your 2" Pipe would be cut to fit inside the frame. Thats what would keep it from moving left or right. You could make this work several ways! You could weld plates onto the Frame that your 1.25" Pipe axle would go through and the 2" Pipe cut to fit inside those plates or just drill 1.25" Hole through your 2" Square tubing frame. This is one reason I went with the 2" Square tubing. So your axle (1.25") would be able to go through the 2" Square tubing and be strong enough for all the weight. Hope that makes sense! LOL

    just thought of something concerning the welded fingers.......i measured the grooves to be 1" wide so i would make the fingers 3/4" wide for clearance but with this whole design isn't there going to be a little bit of "shifting" left and right where as those fingers might come into contact with the "ridge" walls on the packer?
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  22. #22
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    but yes ricky 2feathers your previous explaination does make sense completely! another question/concern of mine would be how much wear and tear on the 2" square frame would result from the pipe(cemented in) rubbing on it while turning with the packer? i planned on greasing the "axle" pipe should i just do the same between the rotating pipe and the frame?
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  23. #23
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    To keep the shift going from left and right, you build the frame so the 2" Pipe already concreted in the packer, fits snug inbetween the frame ends.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky 2feathers View Post
    To keep the shift going from left and right, you build the frame so the 2" Pipe already concreted in the packer, fits snug inbetween the frame ends.
    understood, i think i will order 20' of the 2" x1/8" square tubing through my shop tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted with pics
    It's funny how hunting starts out as an occasional thing but turns into something you occasionally miss.

  25. #25
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    I also thought about the wear and yes over time you will get some with this design. You could also do it one more way and do away with the 1.25" Pipe axle you were going to use. Thats what I made the design around! You could take and make your frame from 2" Square tubing just like the design you see, But instead of running another shaft through your 2" pipe already cemented in, you could buy 2- 2" Pillow block bearings and bolt them to the 2" Square tubing frame. Your 2" Pipe would run through these bearings. They also have grease inserts built into the Pillow block bearings to keep everything running smooth! The Pillow block bearings also have a locking collar with set screws that will keep the 2" Pipe from going left or right!

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