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Thread: Viper1 String Jig

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by julle View Post
    I just took a closer look at the plans, first of all, if there's ever a presidential candidate that wants the US to move over to the metric system, vote for him! Secondly aren't those 2 long 2x4's a bit to heavy duty? I doubt 2 1x2's would bend, I think the posts are more susceptible to bend, or am I wrong here....?
    Jig is very heavy. The steel posts are tough as nails and I've had little to no flex.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by julle View Post
    I just took a closer look at the plans, first of all, if there's ever a presidential candidate that wants the US to move over to the metric system, vote for him! Secondly aren't those 2 long 2x4's a bit to heavy duty? I doubt 2 1x2's would bend, I think the posts are more susceptible to bend, or am I wrong here....?
    I have a homemade jig which used 1x2 for the arms and 5/16" bolts for the posts. The wooden arms will flex a little, but the steel bolts flex noticeably more than the wood. My wooden arms are 15" long, and I suspect if I shortened them 2" to have the posts 11" on center, the wood would flex even less. And 3/8" bolts (or even 1/2" bolts) would flex less. But yes, in my experience, you're right - the bolts are more apt to flex than the wood.

    That said, however, one of the drawbacks I have found with my jig is that it's overall too light, so when I'm building a string, I put a couple screws through the feet and secure it to the workbench so it won't move as I'm pulling strings tight. Viper's jig, if it's substantially heavier, might alleviate the need to do that.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    julie -

    A friend of mine did use 2x2"s, there was more flex; not terrible, but noticeable. The fact that the forces are trying to bend a thicker dimension does help. The 3/8" bolts don't bend (at all), and the only real flex point is the junction between the bolts (uprights) and the cross members. A way of reducing that would be to take a 1 - 1.5" diameter dowel a few inches long, drill a 3/8" hole down the middle, slip the 3/8" bolt through it and glue it to the cross member. While an option, it don't think it's worth doing, unless someone really feels the flex is too much.

    As for the metric system, kinda depends on what you grew up with. I still prefer SAE wrenches...

    Also, I find that a single "C" clamp holds it to my work bench nicely.

    Lastly regarding the version in my book: After using that model for about 30 years, I did wind up stiffening it by bolting a 2x4" to the base pieces. That, plus the oak dowels and cross members held up well. Just wanted one that was easier to build with even less flex.

    Viper1 out.
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  4. #29
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    yup that's a pretty cool jig and about all you need for recurve strings.
    here is a similar one I typed up for the 4H kids.
    http://nwspinner.com/docs/Make_a_Bowstring_Jig.pdf
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  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Berkeley, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by b0w_bender View Post
    yup that's a pretty cool jig and about all you need for recurve strings.
    here is a similar one I typed up for the 4H kids.
    http://nwspinner.com/docs/Make_a_Bowstring_Jig.pdf
    Nice design, nicely explained. I expect I'll be making that one with my kids come summer. Thanks.



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