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Thread: Fletching selection for outdoor recurve

  1. #1
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    Fletching selection for outdoor recurve

    Ok, gonna be shooting olympic recurve outdoors, what fletching do you guys and gals recommend? Length? Type? Vane or feather? Enlighten me lol
    "I never miss, I just sometimes aim slightly to the left."
    2011 Hoyt AlphaElite, 30 3/8" DL, Fuse Carbon Blade Stabs, Easton A/C/C's, Sure-Loc Sight/Scope

  2. #2
    Spin Wing vanes

  3. #3
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    There is a better alternative to spin wings available these days. Elivanes from Italy perform exceptionally well, and ARE MORE DURABLE than the fragile spin wings. They are what I'm using on my Nano Pro 450's at the moment, and I've seen excellent results with them. Only fletchings I've had to replace were wrinkled by the button because of a poor initial setup. Otherwise, nearly all the fletchings I started with are still shooting strong with no maintenance, 1000's of shots later.

    If I'm not using Elivanes, or if I need a little more nock-end weight to stiffen my arrow a bit, I'll use AAE Plastifletch Max 2.0 shield vanes. Incredibly durable and easy to fletch (you do NOT have to clean the base of these vanes) and I've shot my personal best outdoor scores to date with these AAE vanes. Once you fletch an arrow with them, you can just about forget maintenance forever. I have some arrows with AAE vanes that have the logos completely worn off from use, and the vanes look brand new.

    As far as performance, I've been shooting mylar vanes (spin wings/Elivanes) vs. Plastic vanes for going on 9 years now, and I still cannot see any difference in scores.

    John
    Renegade Archer

  4. #4
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    John, as of last year the elivanes were still quite expensive - somewhere around $30/bag of 50 if I remember correctly (and didn't include the tip tape). Have they come down in price in the last 12 months?
    L K S
    Laus Deo

  5. #5
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    22 -

    I've used spin wings, easton tight flight vanes and the aae vanes. This year, I'm going back to 3" parabolic feathers. Just more forgiving and easier to deal with.

    Viper1 out.
    “Simple and innocent, however, as it (the bow) appears, and capable as it is of being a trusty friend and ally, a bow is at the same time a watchful enemy, ready to take advantage of the smallest slight.”

  6. #6
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    I started with plastifletch, moved to duravane, to spin-wings and now elivanes. I do agree that the elivanes are a lot tougher, but I found my white spinnies were really tough too, seemingly tougher than some of the other colours that I have seen people use around the place. I actually fletch them with the fold-back method so their profile is actually also a touch smaller/flatter so that might contribute to their survival also.

  7. #7
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    I use the Vanetec 1.75" FITA vanes on my compound arrows, but from what I understand, they are popular for Oly Recurve

    http://www.lancasterarchery.com/vane...ine-vanes.html

  8. #8
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    Regarding the "3 in parabolic feathers" for outdoor shooting - has anyone already (point me to it if so) taken feathers and then cut them down heighth wise to see at what point does stabilization "fly" out the window? I have taken some four inch feathers and cut the down to just above a quarter inch and gotten good flight out to 35 yards. But that was not serious, just seeing what would happen.

  9. #9
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    I have heard good things about the new Bohning Impulse as well.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by limbwalker View Post
    Elivanes from Italy ... are what I'm using on my Nano Pro 450's at the moment, and I've seen excellent results with them.
    John
    John,

    Whenever I get tempted to try Eli Vanes, I get sidetracked by their not-completely-helpful descriptions of their options. It seems like most FITA recurve shooters should start with the P3 or S3 and possibly move to S2 if they are comfortable with it. Is this what you've experienced? What styles of their vanes have you tried so far?

    -Tony

  11. #11
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    I'm shooting Eli Vanes, P3. They are really durable, but I'm currently seeking a better adhesive tape for them. The included one does not seem to stick as well as the spinwing ones.

  12. #12
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    wow, now i'm really confused as to what to use lol thanks for all of your input. does anyone ever have trouble with the vanes hitting the plunger or rest?
    "I never miss, I just sometimes aim slightly to the left."
    2011 Hoyt AlphaElite, 30 3/8" DL, Fuse Carbon Blade Stabs, Easton A/C/C's, Sure-Loc Sight/Scope

  13. #13
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    nope. appropriate shaft tuning means it should never hit the plunger or the rest. Hitting the riser shelf however is an issue if you have big vanes, typically with the high profile plastic fletches.

  14. #14
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    Spin Wing Vanes, nothing better for over 30 years!!

  15. #15
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    I used the Vanetec's last year and really like them, but have also had great luck with the AAE'

    I notice Lancaster now has Elivanes on their website.

  16. #16
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    The most surefire bet is Spinwings, 1 3/4" for arrows up to ~30", 2" for arrows up to 31.5" and 2 3/16" for longer.

    Or pick eli/gaspro or even K-vanes if you prefer durability. Other options may work but all have their drawbacks, usually weight and clearance.

  17. #17
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    Anyone used the Flo-nites? I've had some pretty tight results with them. They seem to be fairly versatile as well. Shot them with Oly Rec at 34 lbs and on my my hunting rig at 60 lbs. Good results with both.

  18. #18
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    Are the Spinwings/K-vanes pretty easy to keep from hitting the plunger/rest? I've heard alot about them getting ripped off and being hard to tune.
    "I never miss, I just sometimes aim slightly to the left."
    2011 Hoyt AlphaElite, 30 3/8" DL, Fuse Carbon Blade Stabs, Easton A/C/C's, Sure-Loc Sight/Scope

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by skunklover View Post
    I'm shooting Eli Vanes, P3. They are really durable, but I'm currently seeking a better adhesive tape for them. The included one does not seem to stick as well as the spinwing ones.
    I've used 'Bohning Feather Fletching Tape' on Spin Wings, Quick Spins, Flonite, and feathers.....it holds very well on each of them. - John
    http://www.lancasterarchery.com/bohn...hing-tape.html

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by recurvist22 View Post
    Are the Spinwings/K-vanes pretty easy to keep from hitting the plunger/rest? I've heard alot about them getting ripped off and being hard to tune.
    If your rig is tuned then you should never have a problem with any vane hitting your rest - spin wings included. They're not hard to tune. Tuning requires the same methods as any other vane.

  21. #21
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    Mylar vanes be they Spinwings (Preferred) or Kurly Vanes...

    The only real issue I have with mylar vanes is that the manufacturers bend the vanes (as needed) but fail to concentrate on the area of the vane that attaches to the shaft. I'd love to see these vanes have a curl on them where they attach to the shaft. If they had a radious to match X10's or ACE shaft diameters then the surface of the vane to tape and tape to shaft area would be greatly enhanced.

    Personally I shoot EASTON ACE670's (28 1/8" shaft), 100 grain (long) steel points, with 1 3/4" White Spinwings. and pins with pin nocks.

    My Best

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by limbwalker View Post
    ...
    As far as performance, I've been shooting mylar vanes (spin wings/Elivanes) vs. Plastic vanes for going on 9 years now, and I still cannot see any difference in scores...
    John,
    Do you see much of an advantage to either in wind drift?
    Thanks.
    "We all quite often tend to forget that Archery is an aiming sport..." Vittorio Frangilli (THA)

    "This archery stuff can get awfully complicated for something that is just suppose to be a bent stick." Popsted by: Hank D Thoreau

  23. #23
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    ok, i'm leaning towards some kurly vanes, any tips for putting them on?

    "I never miss, I just sometimes aim slightly to the left."
    2011 Hoyt AlphaElite, 30 3/8" DL, Fuse Carbon Blade Stabs, Easton A/C/C's, Sure-Loc Sight/Scope


  24. #24
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    I use a home made fixture:

    The fixture is a piece of smooth plywwod app. 6" x 6". To this I secured 2 small paper clips using appropriately sized sheet metal screws.

    The paper clips are angled inward somewhat towards each other. They are positioned so as to hold a mylan vane down flat and allow access to the area/edge that gets the double stick tape.

    I place a vane under the clips. Peal off a piece of tape (leaving one of the paper sides intack) and under a bright light (my eyes...) I place the sticky side of the tape onto the mylar vane. I then use a modelers razor knife to trim off the excess double stick tape. I make us a number of vanes and then apply them to the shaft. You can do this to vanes and then take the spare vanes with you, in order to do a field repair if needed.

    Regards,

    Tom

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by recurvist22 View Post
    ok, i'm leaning towards some kurly vanes, any tips for putting them on?
    Make sure you don't buy the dayglow orange. The visibility on them is amazing. But, the color on those vanes comes in the form of a coating that tends to come off on the adhesive requiring you to reapply the vane or use a new one. I'm guessing it's the same with all the dayglow colors. But, orange is the only one I've had personal experience with.

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