April 10th, 2012, 01:21 AM
Originally Posted by Wood
I am with you! So far the Gorilla Glue original has worked out great.
April 10th, 2012, 01:48 AM
loctite 380 from fastenal, hard to find but BY FAR the best glue that i've used. kind of expensive but its awesome.
April 10th, 2012, 02:05 AM
Insert Iron from Bohning....
Liberalism is a mental disorder
April 10th, 2012, 02:26 AM
I like the Insert Iron from Bohning I have used it for a couple of years and it has worked very well for me and I go threw a lot of arrows
April 10th, 2012, 03:59 AM
Easton Bond-All is amazing....................... ......
2014 Elite Energy 35 Xtra #70/2013 Elite Answer AP #70/B-Stinger 10.25 APG 8 oz.
TightSpot APG / Easton ACC Pro Hunter 340/ 100gr Grim Reaper Razortips
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April 10th, 2012, 06:39 AM
I like the insert iron it works well but you have to give it time to cure. I usally give it 24 hrs. I have tried gorilla super glue and it did not work I ruined 3 vanes I could not get it to dry. I did all the prepping I could do. So I still use fletchtite platinum for vanes.
April 10th, 2012, 07:33 AM
Low melt "stick" on all glue-in points , Loctite 480 for screw-in inserts .... none of these ever failed me to date .
Gorilla glue and reg. gel loctite break down within few months of shooting - especially if shot at hard targets like new block , blob or wet excelsior bales.
April 10th, 2012, 07:55 AM
This is what I have been experimenting with, Insert Weld from 3006 outdoors. I like it a lot so far. It has like rubberized property in it.
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April 10th, 2012, 08:38 AM
Easton Quick Bond Adhesive for inserts and vanes. I was having issues with both vanes and inserts coming loose using some of the above mentioned products. So I asked the techs at the pro shop I go to what they use. EQBA and have never looked back.
April 10th, 2012, 09:20 AM
Easton HIT adhesive. You can get a tube of the stuff...comes in a red tube. It's a bit expensive...it's like $20 for a tube of it. But I just about guarantee you wont have an insert or nibb come out on you. One tube will last a LONG time....I go through a bunch of arrows but never have any trouble with inserts coming out. One tube of it will last you a LONG time...all you need is about 2 dabs of it per insert or nibb...and one tube has lasted me about 4 yrs now. It has done all my many many dozens of arrows, my wife's arrows, and my co-workers who hunt that kept complaining about losing inserts and tips in targets...I've never had one person tell me their tips came out after using this stuff.
You can heat it just like hot melt to remove the insert if you choose...but chances are, the insert will outlast the arrow itself and thus it wont matter anyway. Hot melt and low melt glue works OK...but I've lost quite a bit of tips over the years due to them pulling out in targets...especially if the target is wet on the inside or if its cold outside.
April 10th, 2012, 12:31 PM
Gorilla Glue original and Insert Iron, I am almost sure, are very very close to being the same thing but GG is much cheaper.
April 10th, 2012, 12:44 PM
insert iron, i have used it for two years and had no problems. If you need to remove an insert just boil some water and put the arrow in it for a minute... insert pulls right out.
April 10th, 2012, 12:48 PM
I use a commercial epxoy. It ain't going nowhere.
April 10th, 2012, 01:16 PM
X2 loc tite works best and lot cheaper
April 10th, 2012, 01:26 PM
rednecks will use crap like gorilla glue, lock tight, man tuff or any archery product that is marked up 150%. Guys with some sort of edumacation lol will use the cheep walmart hot melt glue, and cheep walmart super glue for their fletchings on carbon shafts. You cant pull your inserts out and you will have to use pliers or a knife to get your vanes off. The bonus is if you run out of the crap walmart is always open and its always in stock.
You will need a cheep torch and a butane fuel can from home dept to install your inserts or points. The torch will cost you a whopping 15.00 bucks and last you for ever. The fuel will cost you another 5 bucks and will last a few seasons. You can add or remove point weight or different tips by just heating the tip up enough for the glue to soften. It literly takes a few seconds and thats it. If my 11 year old daughter can use it to build her arrows im sure some of you guys will figure out how to use it. lol
bonus is you can also use the glue for your pin nocks. If one gets banged up just take it out and put another one in.
April 11th, 2012, 11:36 AM
I decided to try this stuff yesterday. Man, I'm impressed! I removed my old inserts (which were glued in with gorilla glue with the blue cap) by inserting a drill bit inside the arrow shaft and whipping the arrow around. Inserts came out pretty easily. I cut the shafts down about an inch and used the cool flex to install the new inserts. I tried to remove the newly installed inserts with the same drill bit just minutes later (because of a mistake I made), and they wouldn't budge. All I had to do was put a little heat on the arrow and the inserts popped right out. The mistake I made was that I followed the directions "to the T", and the inserts got a little too hot and got oblong from holding them in the pliers. When I went to install the field tips, they wouldn't go into the holes. Looked at them, and noticed the inserts were now shaped like this - 0. So I had to replace a couple inserts, but now I know. Lesson learned. Overall, great stuff!
Originally Posted by bulldog18
'10 bowtech admiral flx, 72#, 29.5" draw, 31" ata, ripcord rest, Gold tip pro hunter 7595's
2010 ninja GT500, 29.5/60, Easton flatline 400's, ripcord rest, HHA OL5519, doinker stabilizer. 3d rig
April 11th, 2012, 12:19 PM
Loc tite gel for inserts and vanes, very permanent for both.
Athens Ibex 62# QAD HD rest, Trophy Ridge React 5 pin 27" DL 300gr. GT UL. 295fps.
Athens Afflixtion 60# QAD HD rest, Trophy Ridge React Pro 5 pin 27" DL 300gr. VAP 300fps.
Athens Staff shooter.
April 11th, 2012, 12:44 PM
Thing I like about GG and Insert Iron is that the urethane actually expands a small degree and fills voids, forms a "mechanical lock" with the insert. It is a wee bit like foam but with some serious tack and of course it is heat reversible. Only problem I had with Insert Iron was with brass inserts for 22's and the inserts were really smooth with no real grooves in the insert. I learned of the term "mechanical lock" while bedding rifles, gives you extra assurance. I have had expoxies slip on me, they say 24 hr is better than 5 or 15 minutes because it is not supposed to be as brittle when cured. Super glues, sometimes they work great, more often than not- first hard hit, they loose their bond and begin to come out.
April 11th, 2012, 12:45 PM
epoxy 5min style, let cure for 24 hrs
April 11th, 2012, 12:50 PM
I use epoxy too, not sure if it's 5 minute or slow set but they don't come out. For vanes I use Super Glue Gel or Loctite whatever Wally has.
April 11th, 2012, 12:59 PM
I Use Gorilla Glue,Never had a Problem with inserts coming out.
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April 11th, 2012, 01:21 PM
I need to clarify this. If you use the hot glue, you can heat that with a heat gun and remove a insert from a carbon shaft?
"If there is a sacred moment in the ethical pursuit of game, it is the moment you release the arrow or touch off the fatal shot." --Jim Posewitz
April 11th, 2012, 01:45 PM
I use Goat Tuff High impact. I can honestly say I have never had an insert pull out, you will break the shaft first. I have had good luck removing inserts glued in with this stuff by screwing in a field point and putting it to the propane torch. You do not want and flame near the carbon! I'm sure there are others out there that work just as good.
April 11th, 2012, 02:11 PM
With the longer inserts that came with Easton Epics.... Devcon 2 Ton - 2 part epoxy was fantastic.
With the 2 Ton had some issues with Gold Tips. They told me not to use expoxy. They have their own glue (Tip Grip) now that they told they have tested and works. Fingers crossed!!!
They did send me some to try. So far so good. Did ask Levi Morgan... he gave the thumb ups. So..... hoping no more issues.
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April 11th, 2012, 02:25 PM