a href="http://www.lancasterarchery.com/archery-classic-register/#header">
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Carbon Impact Super Club vanes hitting rest

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481

    Carbon Impact Super Club vanes hitting rest

    I'm shooting a KAP Prostyle riser with Samick Polaris 23# limbs. I have a 28" draw length. I'm comparing Carbon Impact Super Club 15/25 and 20/30, both cut to 28" shaft only length. I'm only using a Hoyt Super Rest and no plunger for now. It is obvious from the smearing of the logo on the one vane and the curling of that vane that the vanes are hitting the rest pretty hard. It is worse on the 20/30 arrows, so I would assume that the 15/25 is tuned better. However, I shoot somewhat better groups with the 20/30 arrows and those are the ones that Carbon Impact recommends for my actual 23.4# draw weight with a 28" arrow. I have measured the spine of the arrows as .970 for the 15/25 and .850 for the 20/30.

    What are the experts thoughts on this? Do I need to get a plunger?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481
    I just thought of some other info. I think that the 20/30 arrows are porpoising some. I have the nock set set at 10mm above the rest line. The nock is 5mm wide, so the bottom of the nock is 5mm above the rest line. The 15/25 arrows are also shooting a few inches left of the 20/30 arrows. This is at 18m.

    Also, would a flipper rest be better than the Hoyt Super Rest?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldNewbie View Post
    ...
    Also, would a flipper rest be better than the Hoyt Super Rest?
    If your arrow is spined correct, the rest does almost nothing.
    That is to say it provides a point of vertically stability, once the arrow "paradoxes" it should be clear of the rest and shelf by a pretty safe margin.
    Being that you are not using a button, is your center shot correct?
    Another factor could be that your brace height is not "timed" with the paradox cycle, this too would casuse some clearance issues, but spine and centershot factor into this much more prevalently.
    "We all quite often tend to forget that Archery is an aiming sport..." Vittorio Frangilli (THA)

    "This archery stuff can get awfully complicated for something that is just suppose to be a bent stick." Popsted by: Hank D Thoreau

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481
    Quote Originally Posted by OldSchoolNEO View Post
    If your arrow is spined correct, the rest does almost nothing.
    That is to say it provides a point of vertically stability, once the arrow "paradoxes" it should be clear of the rest and shelf by a pretty safe margin.
    Being that you are not using a button, is your center shot correct?
    Another factor could be that your brace height is not "timed" with the paradox cycle, this too would casuse some clearance issues, but spine and centershot factor into this much more prevalently.
    By center shot, do you mean that the right side of the arrow at the rest is in line with the string. I thought that I had checked that when I started to shoot with the thicker fiberglass arrows a month ago. I just checked it and the arrow is right in line with the string. I guess I'll try 2 thicknesses of the thick double sided tape that comes with the Hoyt rest.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldNewbie View Post
    By center shot, do you mean that the right side of the arrow at the rest is in line with the string. I thought that I had checked that when I started to shoot with the thicker fiberglass arrows a month ago. I just checked it and the arrow is right in line with the string...
    Yes.
    Is there a reason for not using a button?
    Even an entry level model will give you a great degree of adjustment to centershot and pressure.
    "We all quite often tend to forget that Archery is an aiming sport..." Vittorio Frangilli (THA)

    "This archery stuff can get awfully complicated for something that is just suppose to be a bent stick." Popsted by: Hank D Thoreau

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481
    Quote Originally Posted by OldSchoolNEO View Post
    Yes.
    Is there a reason for not using a button?
    Even an entry level model will give you a great degree of adjustment to centershot and pressure.
    I just thought that it would not do much for a beginner, but I'm going to get one and perhaps a flipper rest. I'm thinking of a Cartel Supra Cushion Plunger and a magnetic Cartel X-Pert flipper rest. For tomorrow, I'm going to use 3 or 4 layers of Scotch double sided foam tape to bring the rest out about an extra 1/8 inch.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481
    I had a chance to shoot a few arrows before it got dark. They seem to shoot better, but were shooting off to the left. I adjusted the sight and then checked the alignment of the sight pin and it is about 3/16 inch left of center. Should the sight be in line with the string or is it normally left of the string? The lighter spine arrows also shoot left of the stiffer arrows.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    481
    Quote Originally Posted by TheOldNewbie View Post
    I had a chance to shoot a few arrows before it got dark. They seem to shoot better, but were shooting off to the left. I adjusted the sight and then checked the alignment of the sight pin and it is about 3/16 inch left of center. Should the sight be in line with the string or is it normally left of the string? The lighter spine arrows also shoot left of the stiffer arrows.
    Never mind on the sight alignment. I sight with the string to the right of my line of sight, so naturally the sight has to be to the left since my line of sight is.



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •