April 12th, 2012, 03:10 PM
Nock high with Ultra Rest
I recently installed a QAD Ultra LD rest on my 2011 Supra. My indoor 2712's tuned easily with this rest, but my VAP's require the nock about 1/2" to shoot well.
My theory is that the lack of cushioning is causing my arrows to bounce off the rest a little.
Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a cure?
This seems to also be causing a nock right paper tear.
April 12th, 2012, 03:37 PM
New rest requires retuning through paper.
Remember that you are tuning the Bow to the Arrow.
It is nearly unheard of to find that two completely different arrows will shoot the same out of the same bow.
`````````````````````````````` `````````````````````````````` ````````````````
Human life has become cheap in our "enlightened" society. Liberalism has taught these kids that there's no difference in killing a one-year-old in a stroller and killing a ten WEEK old baby in the womb! These killers are not human - they are demons spawned in the cesspool of Progressive ideology.
April 12th, 2012, 04:10 PM
I appologize, wasn't clear on that. I am paper tuning with the VAP's which is where I got the 1/2" high nockilng point.
April 13th, 2012, 12:50 AM
enlighten me on the VAP diameter vs 27's???? im wondering where each arrow is in relationship to berger??? also spine of vap and point weight??? somethings wierd, no way it should be 1/2" high to tune right, thats really high
April 13th, 2012, 07:13 AM
VAP's are very close to half the diameter of 2712's. 0,217" vs 0.4219".
Originally Posted by dwagoner
VAP length = 27.5
Point weight = 100 grains
Bow = Supra single cam - DL = 26.25" / DW = 55#
Both AA and OT2 show this arrow to be optimum spine.
One problem may be from system torque. In order to avoid fishtailing, I have to set the center shot way to the left. It has an adjustable cable guard that I've set for very little clearance. However, fletching contact isn't a problem yet because I haven't fletched the VAP's yet.
Cam orientation is exactly on the timing mark, though I may have to play with this.
The more I think about it, there seem to be a few things I can try.
Build a shoot through cable.
Yoke tune - which will induce some idler lean
Tilt tamer or Arc
Get a limb driver rest that has some cushioning or go back to the blade.
Anybody think of anything else that might work?
April 14th, 2012, 03:56 AM
well im not sure how any cushioning would help, that rest locks down so shouldnt be any contact issues as it seems youve been shooting the VAP as bare shaft right??? what about timing of the rest???? soudnds like you are speculating a little bit that cam lean may be partial factor??? anything else change like different release?? i know right now im starting BT with my target bow and have always used thumb handle and i can see issues with paper tuning since im still a noob with the BT release. my bare shafts were flying horrible and shot thru paper tonight and i can see mixed results depending on shots, some perfect tears and some left tears. kinda got me going tonight LOL
April 14th, 2012, 08:45 AM
You are right that the release can make a big difference. In this case it's the same Zenith hinge that I've been using for several years.
Last night I ruled out cam lean as either the problem or the solution. I set up my press next to the paper frame and adjusted idler lean in half twist increments. I took the cam from slightly top right to severely top left and didn't get much improvement in the right tear, but the tear is at 3 o'clock so the idler lean isn't effecting that.
I guess the next step is to reset the cam to align with the string and start trial & error on cam orientation.
I don't know what the next step is after that.
Would vertical nock travel make a difference on nock height?
April 18th, 2012, 09:13 AM
Two things that seem to help the very high nocking point. One is to adjust the tiller to even. I had taken a little off of the top limb to get the bow to hold a little better, but setting at even tiller allows me to bring the nock down a bit. I'm not sure if it's the change in nock height from tightening the top limb bolt or not. I need to look into that a little more.
The other was to remove the string stop. This also reduced the right tear a little. Unfortunately, my bow is very loud now. The bow needs the stopper, I just need to learn to adjust it a little better.