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Thread: How to select the right arrow for a recurve?

  1. #1

    How to select the right arrow for a recurve?

    I am brand new to hunting with a recurve and would like to get started in the right direction. I have a 45# 28" draw Ben Pearson Hunter. Is there a chart to go off like compound.. Can I shoot a 5575 Gold tip carbon. only becouse I already have them. otherwise what would be your sugestion, Thanks Ryan



  2. #2
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    It's hard to recommend arrows with any degree of accuracy, a lot will depend on how long your draw length is and what point weight you want to use. I have found the charts to be a good starting point, but only a starting point. If you draw the bow more or less that 28", your draw weight will vary from 45# by 2#-3# per inch, plus or minus. The Gold Tip chart recommends a 5575 for a 30" arrow, 45# bow but they don't specify tip weight. If it's not too inconvenient, the best thing to do is leave them full length, then tune with point weight or trimming length until you get good bare shaft flight. This link is a good one for tuning recurves and longbows.

    http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

  3. #3
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    What Easy just said a full length 5575 might tune ok with enough weight up front, but I would expect them to be a bit stiff for that bow. Goldtip 3555's tune well in my 35-45lb bows left full length with about 125 grain points. I have a 30" draw so have to leave them full length anyway.

    Jeff

  4. #4
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    whats your draw length?
    Hunt/target: Bowtech Insanity, MBG accent w/ vengeance head and dovetail, limb driver, Paradigm carbon hammer and QD, Black eagle
    trad: Hunterbows 3 piece hybrid longbow, bear kodiak
    paradigm archery field staff

  5. #5
    Thanks for all the info! I have a 28.5 inch draw on my mathews. Like I said I am new to the world of traditional but love to shoot it. and would like to set it up for hunting whitetails this year. Do you recomend a broadhead that flyes good.

  6. #6
    Also what grain tip do most use with this set up? 100 or 125...Heavier?

  7. #7
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    I like 125 grain points because there are a lot of 125 grain broadheads available and if you tune with 125 grain field points most will fly well. I like Zwickeys but any cut on contact should be good. I know many use Magnus heads with good results too.


    Jeff

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taxidermy View Post
    Also what grain tip do most use with this set up? 100 or 125...Heavier?
    I've been very happy with Wensel Woodsman Elite broadheads. I have used the 150gr. and 175gr. versions. Very good flight, compound or recurve, and easy to sharpen.

    Get your arrows flying as well as possible using the procedure in the link. Then buy broadheads of the same weight as the field points that tune the best, you should be in good shape.

  9. #9
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    Drawlength on a compound might not be the same as on a recurve - get it measured !!!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Taxidermy View Post
    I am brand new to hunting with a recurve and would like to get started in the right direction. I have a 45# 28" draw Ben Pearson Hunter. Is there a chart to go off like compound..
    There are a few charts out there but there is a calculator that can more accurately determine an arrow that will work for you. Just make sure you imput your information as accurately as you can or the calculator won't be as accurate.

    It's called Stu Miller's Dynamic Spine Calculator.

    You can download it at : http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

    Ray

  11. #11
    I just shot a round of blank shaft (non fletched) cx300 100gr field point at 28.5 shaft lenth. At 10 yards all my arrows hit the target with an extreme angle. Tip in far left and the knock is way to the right. according to the chart I cannot figure out if I am under or over splined?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Taxidermy View Post
    I just shot a round of blank shaft (non fletched) cx300 100gr field point at 28.5 shaft lenth. At 10 yards all my arrows hit the target with an extreme angle. Tip in far left and the knock is way to the right. according to the chart I cannot figure out if I am under or over splined?
    If you're right handed...they are most likely to stiff. You can change the dynamic spine by increasing point weight to get them to fly better.

    Ray

  13. #13
    Im on it! Thanks! p.s yes im right handed

  14. #14
    Just played with the calculator, and i have to say, while it is very thorough, chances are, results will vary. I ran the numbers for several bows that i know, and know arrows that work well after much trial and error, and the predicted optimum setups were not, actually. They were often different by as much as 10 # of amo static spine.

    You may notice that it allows you to select some bow models as well as generic bows. This is both handy, and relevant. Bows will vary. More importantly, particulaly with bows that have wood components, bows will not be the same even if they are the same model and draw weight. I noticed that the predator hunter and the predator classic had different dynamic spine requirements, everything else being equal. It was significant, and they are the SAME bow, with different wood options in the riser.

    Also notice that there is a personal form factor. This points out that everybody will have an effect on the tuning, and you really have no idea how to apply that until you figure out the best tuning by yourself, then use that factor to offset the predictions with reality. Even then, you can't use that factor for the next bow, as the bow will have it's own variations. You could still use it to use the calculator to make a good prediction to put together an alternative set of arrows based on something you've already tuned well yourself, but even then, it would only be a good starting point.

    So, while i think it is really cool, and illustrative of the effects of arrow variation, Use it as a starting point, but realize that it is only the ballpark.just the beginning. Start long, play with stuff, cut slowly. Probably stop cutting when it gets close, because as you shoot, your tuning needs might change.

    As another said, definitely get your draw length measured. My draw length is anywhere from 1.5 to 2 inches different, depending on the bow and release used, between my compound bows and my recurves. Plus, the letoff of compounds allows many to get away with WAY overdrawing, forearms pointing up, wrists bent..

    Viper's suggestion of a piece of paper stuck on the arrow pushed by the front side of the shelf, or back of the bow, rather, as you draw the arrow to anchor is a good one. Just make sure you're not drawing past anchor. Or, have a friend mark the arrow at the front of the shelf for you. Then measure from that point to the deepest groove in the nock. Draw as you'd actually shoot, not to get an arbitrary length you want.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by BarneySlayer View Post
    Use it as a starting point, but realize that it is only the ballpark.just the beginning. Start long, play with stuff, cut slowly.
    EXACTLY!

    Every chart or calculator should be treated that way...so ultimatelty it's the archer's responsibility to tune to the best of their abilty. The charts and calculators just help archers narrow the choices down.

    Ray

  16. #16
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    when i bought my first longbow I set up the arrow using stu miller and they were way to stiff. I only use it now to see what spine it says my tuned arrows are so I can compare them to other arrows on his list and see what else I can use. Still would start long and tune like always to be safe
    Hunt/target: Bowtech Insanity, MBG accent w/ vengeance head and dovetail, limb driver, Paradigm carbon hammer and QD, Black eagle
    trad: Hunterbows 3 piece hybrid longbow, bear kodiak
    paradigm archery field staff

  17. #17
    I have several sets of arrow shafts waiting for future use because I mistakenly assumed otherwise. Expensive lessons, but worth it

  18. #18
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    Places like Three Rivers and Rose City, etc., have "test kits" with a couple or three arrows (cedar..yes! Wood is good!) per different spine weights. You can do a lot of experimenting and fine tuning at a low cost and really find the arrow perfect for the bow.

    I've found, with my bows, that they like an arrow spined slightly heavier than the bow, such as 55-60 for my 55# PSE Sequoia, 75-80 for my Browning Fury II 72#, etc. (rather than 45-55 or 70-75) And of course leave the arrow long to begin with, and you can shorten it a little bit at a time if it does not seem to be stiff enough.

    My bows also seem to prefer the 23/64 diameter over the 11/32.

  19. #19
    All I can say is WOW! Thank each and every one of you for a great support team! I ended closing the Taxidermy shop down early today and went strait to the local pro shop and shot a ton of arrows and with the advise passed on to them from all of you we ended up with a great flying arrow that recovers nice and although not the fastest 163fps through the chronograph that was not important to me. I ended up with a aluminum shaft 2215 spine and 125gr field point arrows ended up at 29". shooting instinctively off the bench i'm now shooting 3" groups at 10yds and 5" groups at 20yds. I am pleased with this set up and with many nights of practice hopefully I will be adding to my collection of whitetails only this time with a recurve! now that to me is a great accomplishment. Thanks Again! Ryan

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Taxidermy View Post
    All I can say is WOW! Thank each and every one of you for a great support team! i'm now shooting 3" groups at 10yds and 5" groups at 20yds. I am pleased with this set up and with many nights of practice hopefully I will be adding to my collection of whitetails only this time with a recurve! now that to me is a great accomplishment. Thanks Again! Ryan


    Ray

  21. #21
    That spine calculator is nifty, but that and the spine charts are still just a good place to start. Trial and error is the only way to know where you will end up. There is just so much room for how personal style and equipment variables are going to interact.

    I'm lucky. I get best results from my 35-50 lb trad bows/26 inch draw w 29 inch 1916/2016 aluminum, .600/.500 carbons w 125/145g points. Pretty much what the charts/spine calc say too. My old #7/8 Micro-Flites still fly great too BTW.
    Deja vu DVC: In archery we have three goals; to shoot accurately, to shoot powerfully, to shoot rapidly.
    - De Re Strategica of Syrianus Magister @525 AD

  22. #22
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    Sounds like you are shooting it very well. Can't argue with that. I wouldn't worry about feet per second. If the arrows have a reasonable amount of weight (I know nothing about aluminum or carbon arrows) and you are accurate with them, and use a good broadhead, then velocity is not all that important.

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