December 2nd, 2012, 08:01 PM
Can anyone recommend a nice cheap bow for me? I'm 6'5 and have a 30-30.5 dl.
December 2nd, 2012, 08:12 PM
December 2nd, 2012, 08:36 PM
Thanks, I could do 350ish any more and I'd get killed...
Prefer recurve but I'd do longbow also.
Nope I don't shoot now.
I think 30-45 would be good for me to get the hang of things.
I'd just be shooting in my backyard inside the fence.
December 2nd, 2012, 08:53 PM
Before you spend $350 too quickly......
Have you got an archery club in your neighborhood? An archery shop where shooters gather and maybe use a range?
It would help you to get some contacts and talk to some real, live people about archery.
You might just run onto people with used bows for sale and get a really good deal.
At the very least, you'd get to handle some bows and watch the shooters and maybe get a better idea of what you like and don't like.
December 2nd, 2012, 08:54 PM
Not as smart or as good looking as punch master but I charge 1/4 of what he does & I take coupons
December 2nd, 2012, 09:01 PM
+ 2 on what logos said. Go try one Oit in a local range, that should give you an idea of what poundage you may want
Where are you located?
Not as smart or as good looking as punch master but I charge 1/4 of what he does & I take coupons
December 2nd, 2012, 09:17 PM
That's a good idea. I'm located in Marshall County, Alabama.
December 3rd, 2012, 10:12 PM
If you want to try something really inexpensive I have a RAGIM MATRIX take down bow that is 62" and 20# draw weight and a target sight. That is how I got back into recurves after many years and then I got a very nice 38# 66" ILF bow that I shoot now. The light D/W allows you to work on your form and finger release and you can hold that weight all day. I am looking to get $75 dollars plus shipping that should not be more than $10 for a light bow and that is for the bow, sight, and string.
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I also have a 45# HOYT BUFFALO and a 66" 42# 1964 Bear Tamerlane on the way!!! Can't wait till they get here!!!!!
December 3rd, 2012, 10:21 PM
I know its cheaper than what you had in mind, but i have been shooting the heck out of my 40lb samick sage. I love it. Limbs are also fairly cheap so you can start light and buy heavier after you build up strength. Shoots great for me, and many others. I don't know if its like this for everyone, but it shoots where i'm looking, its awesome. Brand new around 129. I'm assuming you will need arrows and stuff too, i got all of the stuff needed for under 250.
December 4th, 2012, 01:27 AM
December 4th, 2012, 01:38 AM
Beware, if you are 6'5", your draw length will end up well over 30.5 inches as you learn. As a long draw guy, I would recommend a longer bow. If you were getting a target bow, you would fit 70 inches now, and possibly, 72 in the future. It is easier to learn on something longer. Entry level bows do not usually go past 68 inches unless you go ILF. Watch out for the shorter bows, they may limit your development, especially, if you start to think you are at full draw as they begin to stack (stack is where the bow weight starts to climb very quickly at longer draw lengths and can feel like you are hitting a wall). Many archers do not have draw lengths long enough to experience stack, unless they are shooting short bows. Subsequently, you will get a lot of recommendations for shorter bows since they are popular in the traditional community.
There are some other tall guys on the forum. Some, like Matt Potter, shoot hunting and target bows. I would make sure that you are getting advise from either tall archers, or folks that have successfully coached tall archers.
For the sake of full disclosure, I am a target guy and do not shoot any bows under 69 inches. My target bows are 70 inch ILF, and I am going to start experimenting with 72 inch. I am 6'4" tall with a draw length a bit over 32 inches. My draw length started in the same territory as you are now.
December 4th, 2012, 03:04 PM
My DL is about 30.5" (long arms and 6'2), and my Omega works great (I think they go up to 32" DL). It's 66" and doesn't feel like it stacks, other bows I've tried certainly did though.
December 4th, 2012, 03:18 PM
If you want a really accurate bow I would go with either a samick sage or else a polaris. I use them to teach my students how to shoot and take care of their bows they are $130 and can be found at lancaster and 3rivers archery. The samick sage is what I am using right now and it's very accurate and is very light. Every one who uses it and the polaris always fall in love with them and end up getting them. I can shoot my sage and do just as well as most bear bows and even some humminbird bow archers but of course it all depends on what arrows you use and how much you practice.
December 4th, 2012, 07:13 PM
I would highly recommend the Trad Tech Pinnacle riser $269.00 and a set of Black Max long limbs - $129.00. World Champions use this set up. The Pinnacle riser is ILF and you can use any ILF limbs with it, yet - if you are a bowhunter and want a no frills set up - you can shoot it off the shelf and the wood is much easier on the hands in the cold. You can adjust the preload of the limbs and thereby make the bow draw as smooth as possible at you draw length - you can change the tiller anytime you want if you want to experiment with split or three fingers under - and if you get out of archery - you would have no problem at all selling this set up. I have a draw length just under 30" and this set up draws very smooth.
December 5th, 2012, 08:41 AM
Sharp - I find your post interesting. I never owned a take down, but want one to take on the airplane to hunt out west. I just can't see spending another $ 1,150 for another Blacktail (and believe that inexpensive will "get the job done").
I'm curious for your further opinion why you wouldn't recommend a Samick Sage ( 62" ) or a Samick Journey ( 64" ) as well? Is the Pinnacle with ILF that much better as far as set up? Are you fimiliar with the smoothness of the draw of each at 30"?
I'm about at the point of driving 5 hrs. to Lancaster just to test them all out... Would like your opinion.
December 5th, 2012, 09:26 AM
Sharp - if you don't mind, could you also explain this a little: "You can adjust the preload of the limbs and thereby make the bow draw as smooth as possible at you draw length?" This is something with witch I'm completely unfamiliar. Thanks in advance.
December 5th, 2012, 09:36 AM
I am not "SHARP" - but I have been shooting recurve bows for 60 years and that includes handmade wooden bows. I shot my Martin Firecat Compound Bow almost exclusively for the last 35 years - yes the same bow with original cams and strings and limbs and everything because when I bought it brand new from Martin it was the TOP OF THE LINE and cost around $350 way back in 1975 - that was a lot of money back then and would have cost me my marriage if my wife had known what I spent on it!!! . When I decided to get back into shooting at the advice of a local bow shop owner I bought a used $100 Italian made RAGIM MATRIX 62" 20# takedown bow. I shot that bow in my back yard range for 3 or 4 months to get my form and aim good and then bought a new WIN/WIN ILF SF PREMIUM 25" RISER /SF PREMIUM PRO 36# LIMBS - total 68" - I am 6 ft with 28.5 inch draw.
My point is I hit the bullseye with that MATRIX as well as I can with the 4 times more expensive bow. If I were shooting competitions or going on a HUNT I would want to have THE GOOD STUFF but not because it shoots any better, but because at the moment you need the MONEY SHOT you want something that will perform at that instant. You do get what you pay for in QUALITY and ENDURANCE - most of the time. However, the skill of the user and the quality of the equipment does make a lot of difference - but I lost a $100 bet once on a golf game to a friend who was visiting and used a cheap set of clubs made up of 6 different brands and head styles to my top of the line MIZUNO clubs - because the one with the best skills won - not the cost/quality of the equipment being used . . . .
December 5th, 2012, 10:35 AM
It really doesn't matter what you start with as long as you can actually hit something with it then you can use it. I used regular boy scout bows for years before I got a decent bow.
December 5th, 2012, 01:14 PM
A really CHEAP start would by making a PVC pipe bow .... REALLY Cheap <$10.00 .... just to put your toes in the water so to speak ... Then you can save up for a really Good bow .... Like an Omega .... I’m sure the very Talented Kegan could easily come up with something to suit your needs ....
December 5th, 2012, 02:51 PM
+1 on the above advice. You're definitely gonna need a looong bow so you don't get finger pinch/stacking. I think 20# bow would be way to light for someone your size. Light weight is good, but I think 30 would be better as a min for someone your size. Also, how are you measuring your draw length? Are you coming from compounds? Compound draw length w/release does not generally equal traditional draw length...if you're talking about your compound draw length with a release, subtract 1-1.5 inches. Take me, I'm 30 on a compound, just over 28 trad. Have fun! Think used, think light. If you find yourself getting addicted to trad and/or like hunting come on over to Tradgang.com
Originally Posted by Logos
Java Man. Northern Mist. Stewart. Bob Lee. WhippenStick. Toelke. Rose Oak. Centaur. Habu. Caribow etc.
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."--Marcus Aurelius
December 5th, 2012, 03:29 PM
I'd either go ILF recurve (25" riser with long limbs) or a 30# samick SLB longbow.